Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[pickpackpockpuck]

dante, I think that looks great. please keep posting pics (if you have any interest). as someone closer to your height and build than to ivwri's and asobu's, it's nice to see how you wear stuff. (same goes for you, parker). you mentioned the jacket you're wearing in your earlier pic is a size 1. is that the size you normally look for, and how tough are they to come by (don't think I've ever seen one).

I still haven't found a way to wear Yohji comfortably. I'm still searching for my "in."

 

[snowmanxl]



quick fit post. got my two jackets from japan and an pair of vintage (80's) trousers. the jacket it's size 1 with code HT - J27 - 100. I wore it the other day for my crit and the first thing that my menswear tutor asked me was: "Is this Yohji from 90's?" it's funny how the fabric speaks more than the design in a way. also the buttons on the pants are the same all of his current trousers. impressive consistency.

this fit inspired me to buy these (Stephen Schneider)


...no need to spoiler your fit bud!!

 

[dantebykiko]

dante, I think that looks great. please keep posting pics (if you have any interest). as someone closer to your height and build than to ivwri's and asobu's, it's nice to see how you wear stuff. (same goes for you, parker). you mentioned the jacket you're wearing in your earlier pic is a size 1. is that the size you normally look for, and how tough are they to come by (don't think I've ever seen one).
I still haven't found a way to wear Yohji comfortably. I'm still searching for my "in."

yeah the jacket it's size 1 and i've got an other simillar which it's size "S". those are the two of which i choose when i want to go for "slim and fitted" look. but i've got other jackets which are size 3, i just roll the cuffs and everything it's fine. when i bought the jacket which it's size "S" the people listed as size "5" and i bought it with the idea to do the alterations by myself but when arrived it fitted perfectly and the size was "S". the latest jackets i got from japan are size 1 and size 2. the size 2 fits like size 3.... it's always depends on the cut, but i won't risk with buying size 4, it would be huge for me.

that size "S"


i agree it's hard to wear yohji if you are not surrounded with people who understand history of "fashion". most of my non-fashion friends always telling me that i look like homeless person when i wear something from yohji, because they are used to slim jeans, converse etc.

the best way to prepare yourself it's to watch old movies.

 

[Ivwri]



ivwri, just wondering, what's the material of the coat in your hat pic? sorry if you posted it somewhere and I just missed it.

No problem. It's 100% cotton, but specially treated so it's really soft and delicate to the touch. It was used a lot throughout the collection for everything from jackets to shirts and pants (hakamas and otherwise).

Cool stuff kiko. And just to join pickpackpockpuck in saying that you should definitely post more . Thanks for the recommendation of the Unused hat, unfortunately I am pretty sure the only sizes they got in will all be too small for me (especially since I am still undecided on whether or not to grow out my hair).

Parker the hat is actually from the Spring '12 season and is 100% wool.

Spinning off from what dantebykiko said about fit photos being easier, i was thinking that it would be cool to attempt a regular fit post that incorporates Yohji in some way to show how easy it is to wear every day, what brands people mix with YY, and to give each other ideas on proportions, outfits etc. Most Yohji fans I know of post with really low frequencies and I think that adds to the "mystique" and perceived inaccessibility of the brand. Doesn't have to be exciting outfits all the time and doesn't have to be daily either, just needs to be regular. Like a mini version of one of those alternate WAYWT threads over in Men's Clothing side of the forum. Anyone interested?

 

[davidlee388]

No problem. It's 100% cotton, but specially treated so it's really soft and delicate to the touch. It was used a lot throughout the collection for everything from jackets to shirts and pants (hakamas and otherwise).
Cool stuff kiko. And just to join pickpackpockpuck in saying that you should definitely post more

. Thanks for the recommendation of the Unused hat, unfortunately I am pretty sure the only sizes they got in will all be too small for me (especially since I am still undecided on whether or not to grow out my hair).
Parker the hat is actually from the Spring '12 season and is 100% wool.
Spinning off from what dantebykiko said about fit photos being easier, i was thinking that it would be cool to attempt a regular fit post that incorporates Yohji in some way to show how easy it is to wear every day, what brands people mix with YY, and to give each other ideas on proportions, outfits etc. Most Yohji fans I know of post with really low frequencies and I think that adds to the "mystique" and perceived inaccessibility of the brand. Doesn't have to be exciting outfits all the time and doesn't have to be daily either, just needs to be regular. Like a mini version of one of those alternate WAYWT threads over in Men's Clothing side of the forum. Anyone interested?

Didn't some fashion editor a few years ago say Yohji is a " dangerous " brand? Meaning once you've bought a Yohji blazer, you'll go on to buy a Yohji shirt, then pants etc etc to get the " look " because he said Yohji is rather difficult to work with other designers' pieces because of the voluminous proportion of his pieces. I personally find mixing YYPH/Y's with Y-3 work a treat because Y-3 is quite oversized as well especially its pants & shirts. Needless to say Y-3 footwear blend naturally with YY as seen on Runways.

 

[wireartists]



God this looks so good!
This! I'm really curious to see this in person, I feel the "regular" pants/jackets/shirts is easy enough to get a grasp on seeing online since I've seen so many of them in person but this is something I'd need to try on just to see how it works. I tried the sleeved (one sleeve) shawl cape from AW10 back when it retailed, the japan exclusive one in boiled wool was insane. So good and wearable. I haven't seen it since, I think it sold out immediately. Even the patchwork one (shown on the runway) has pretty much been completely absent from any auction site since.
Between Ivwri and this, I'm starting to consider the plush cotton for hakamas (and not just gabardine):

looks so great here. I wonder what cut this is? I wish I could get this length, the Type 2 ones (L10) I tried on were shorter on me even in size 4.

my friend was in charge of that editorial, I even gave them some pieces from my private collection and had several talks with her about yohji's proper fit

 

[snowmanxl]

has anybody handled these? they look so light and airy
http://www.ln-cc.com/invt/yoh0108012blk

 

[repp_fink]



I still haven't found a way to wear Yohji comfortably. I'm still searching for my "in."

To mangle The Graduate : "One word : jackets."

Yohji's jackets are a damn staple in my wardrobe, and they can be in yours. When you look at runway photos, there's a sense of "oh God, there's so much volume to the clothes" but a lot of that oversized silhouette is in the trousers and the coats, not the jackets.

This means that they're a lot easier to integrate into a standard-silhouette wardrobe -- you get all the unique fabrics and tailoring without it looking super outre' -- and when you want to go "full Yohji" the jackets work as intended, to compact the silhouette a bit up top and let the other volumes come out. At a size 40US, I find that a size 3 in recent YYPH will generally give a totally standard fit at the shoulders and chest; the sleeves always seem to run a touch longer than standard, but it's very harmonious. As others have pointed out, his sizing can vary quite a bit from season, but more importantly even flat measurements can often be misleading simply because of the construction, so try before you buy.

Anyway, jackets. Pick one up, and you'll be surprised how quickly it becomes part of your wardrobe.

 

[dantebykiko]

i remember someone mention august sander as point for inspirations. i guess we can add felix nadar's photographs too. i picked some of his signature portraits, i'm sure you will understand why

 

[Parker]



Parker the hat is actually from the Spring '12 season and is 100% wool.

ah ok, thanks man, I thought it looked like felt or other wintery material. I like it. Hats can really amp up a look.

i was thinking that it would be cool to attempt a regular fit post that incorporates Yohji in some way to show how easy it is to wear every day, what brands people mix with YY, and to give each other ideas on proportions, outfits etc. Most Yohji fans I know of post with really low frequencies and I think that adds to the "mystique" and perceived inaccessibility of the brand. Doesn't have to be exciting outfits all the time and doesn't have to be daily either, just needs to be regular. Like a mini version of one of those alternate WAYWT threads over in Men's Clothing side of the forum. Anyone interested?

I'll give it a go... and try not to ruin the "mystique". ;-) I ran out to get a coffee today and took a crappy photo. Sort of a boring fit spiced up with totally unfunctional, but cool looking Yohji wool cover pants. Wearing them with a white mtm square tail shirt. I cut off the collar, so it's now it's got a frayed band. Coming Soon gray linen-wool pants, Superga trainers and old London Fog flat cap unbuttoned.

Spoiler: warning: crappy photo

 

[Ivwri]

That's such a great look Parker

Glad to see the cover pants in action! Traveling to The Gambia for work this morning and will be there for a week so my outfits for this period may not be that interesting/varied (traveling light), but will see about contributing something at least every other day.

snowmanxl I think those pants would work very well in your wardrobe. I didn't handle them properly unfortunately so can't comment on the "fleecy lining" part of the description, but Yohji's wool gab pants are always great. Does look like they only have a size 3 in stock on LNCC, but other retailers listed on here may have other sizes.

Thanks for posting those Felix Nadar photos kiko, always interesting to see the influences for Yohji's ideas. Kind of cool how one could possibly wear Yohji and travel 100 years back in the past and still sort of blend in (maybe even more so in some cases than in the present day, lol).

And yeah pickpackpuckpock, jackets indeed can be a great "in" so to speak. There are loads of variations so you can be spoilt for choice, especially on the used market. Shirts can also be a great way to add some Yohji to a wardrobe without having to complement it with your other pieces, but it does depend a lot on your wardrobe of course.

 

[APK]



I still haven't found a way to wear Yohji comfortably. I'm still searching for my "in."

The knits are pretty "normal" in terms of proportions and most retain some of the Yohji charm (a bit quirky and beautiful materials). I'm enjoying summer right now, but I kind of long for some crisp autumn days anytime I see my lone Yohji knit, in part because I envision incorporating it into both sharper anti-fit silhouettes.

Also getting caught up here, Ivwri is going to look pretty baller doing dad activities draped in Yohji.

 

[dantebykiko]

really like that look parker. after seeing it i decide that i need cover pants. i bought black linen fabric from margaret howell sample sale last winter and today i decided to make my own pair of cover pants. also made oversized t-shirt, tomorrow with the rest of the linen i will make slimmer pants to be worn under the cover pants.



also the vintage suit that i wore today. i got it from ebay as gift attach to shirt i won on auction. it was very boxy, so i decide to take off the shoulder pads and the canvasing. i dyed black too. it's 100% cotton with code HT - P32 - 021, the fabric it's very very light and transparent. worn with yyph shirt and deadstock converse from 1957.

 

[1234]

That's pretty neat man.

 

[1234]

Hey Parker you live in Socal correct? I'm curious.... what kind of reactions do you get from wearing Yohji here?