The older CdG stuff seems to blend better with Yohji. Here are a few images from past collections that I think have the same spirit. In fact, you can see the direct influence they've had on each other. Spoiler: various past Comme des Garcons Either way can work, but I think there should be a certain level of disheveledness. Things shouldn't be so perfect. Just for visual interest, I like to have either a little space between shoe and hem or a nice big break of drapey fabric. What is even more key to me is the lack of a crease. It makes the look less polished, less like a business suit and more casual, relaxed.