Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[jerrybrowne]

^^^^ I was wondering why they asked me to put the next order on hold..... It's a shame. Wonder if there will be blowout pricing for current stock.

 

[francoamerican]

Anybody have any recommendations for a solid colored version of something like this to be used for a summer jacket? Wool/linen or wool/linen/silk (but I'd like to avoid all linen).

 

[Pliny]

Anybody have any recommendations for a solid colored version of something like this to be used for a summer jacket? Wool/linen or wool/linen/silk (but I'd like to avoid all linen).

So u mean a solid mid-grey wool/silk?

 

[francoamerican]



So u mean a solid mid-grey wool/silk?

yes but with a brown cast - and some linen in there. Thanks!

 

[Concordia]



Anybody have any recommendations for a solid colored version of something like this to be used for a summer jacket? Wool/linen or wool/linen/silk (but I'd like to avoid all linen).

Harrisons has a new-ish Mirage line with that composition. Tailors very well. I don't know if that exact color will be in there.

 

[dan'l]

Cross-post from the shirt-jacket thread:

What's the consensus on shirt-jacket cloth? Benefits of linen vs. cotton?

 

[dieworkwear]



Cross-post from the shirt-jacket thread:

What's the consensus on shirt-jacket cloth? Benefits of linen vs. cotton?

I'd do linen if you want to wear it in the summer. Cotton could be good if you had a more textured fabric, such as moleskin or something, but that would better suit fall.

 

[dan'l]

Thanks for the feedback; I think I'll go with linen.

BTW, did you ever post pics of your shirt-jacket? I read in the other thread that you had one (or perhaps several) made up.

 

[dieworkwear]



Thanks for the feedback; I think I'll go with linen.

BTW, did you ever post pics of your shirt-jacket? I read in the other thread that you had one (or perhaps several) made up.

I had this linen safari jacket made a couple of years ago. It has a reverse pleat on the back for movement; half belted back; long sleeve gauntlets so I can roll the sleeves up; bellow pockets (mostly just to push the design more into jacket territory); and little snaps on the corners of the pocket flaps, to help keep them laying flat.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

 

[dan'l]

Thanks for the pics! They actually look familiar (in hindsight, I most likely saw them on your website a while back).

 

[Concordia]

What weight linen is that?

Did AC charge you for a shirt or for a jacket?

 

[dieworkwear]



What weight linen is that?

Did AC charge you for a shirt or for a jacket?

I don't remember the weight, unfortunately, but it's heavy-ish. I'd guess maybe 13/14oz? It's from Solbiati.

Can't remember what AC charged me, but it was somewhere in the neighborhood of $600-700. They supplied the fabric.

I'm actually thinking of getting a green tweed version made up -- either Donegal or Harris. Leaning towards Harris right now, but I have some W. Bill Donegal swatches (supposedly) on their way.

 

[PCK1]

I don't remember the weight, unfortunately, but it's heavy-ish. I'd guess maybe 13/14oz? It's from Solbiati.

Can't remember what AC charged me, but it was somewhere in the neighborhood of $600-700. They supplied the fabric.

I'm actually thinking of getting a green tweed version made up -- either Donegal or Harris. Leaning towards Harris right now, but I have some W. Bill Donegal swatches (supposedly) on their way.

I like that shirt-jacket a lot. Does it drape well since it is a pretty heavy linen?

 

[Concordia]



I don't remember the weight, unfortunately, but it's heavy-ish. I'd guess maybe 13/14oz? It's from Solbiati.

Can't remember what AC charged me, but it was somewhere in the neighborhood of $600-700. They supplied the fabric.

I'm actually thinking of getting a green tweed version made up -- either Donegal or Harris. Leaning towards Harris right now, but I have some W. Bill Donegal swatches (supposedly) on their way.

I may have to see what I can do with them. I wonder if they have access to ventile cotton? I've never used that but it sounds as if it might be a good thing for that kind of use.

After following up Dr. Teplitz's saga for a similar product a few years ago, I tried WW Chan. I guess he had made it just hard enough for them that they refused to do another one.

 

[dieworkwear]



I like that shirt-jacket a lot. Does it drape well since it is a pretty heavy linen?

Thanks. It definitely drapes more like a jacket than a shirt. It's not as structured as a sport coat, however, since there's no stuffing inside, but it drapes like a casual spring/ summer lightweight jacket would, if you bought it ready to wear.

I admittedly don't wear it that much. It's mainly just for really hot days when I'm hanging out in the neighborhood, maybe going to a cafe or something. For the price, you can probably get something just as good, if not better, ready-to-wear. I just saw these two jackets once at Panico's workshop, and have been wanting to get something ever since.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

The Armoury did something similar with Ascot Chang, just slightly modified in design.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

I may have to see what I can do with them. I wonder if they have access to ventile cotton? I've never used that but it sounds as if it might be a good thing for that kind of use.

After following up Dr. Teplitz's saga for a similar product a few years ago, I tried WW Chan. I guess he had made it just hard enough for them that they refused to do another one.

I'm actually wearing a Ventile cycling jacket today. I like the material for this sort of design, and even on some raincoats, but I'm not totally sure it would work for a simple shirt jacket.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Have you felt Ventile before? Even in the heavier weights it's very light and silky. Specs can be found here:

http://www.ventile.co.uk/specification.php

I feel like you need more internal structure for something like Ventile. It's also a very smooth looking fabric, so you might want to keep that in mind when designing something. I like linen, moleskin, and tweed for shirt jackets cause they have a sort of texture to them. Otherwise, I think shirt jackets can look a bit off.

I'm all for experimenting though, so if you do something, definitely keep us informed. I'd be curious to hear your thoughts in the end.