Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[unbelragazzo]



Only thing I can think that might work is a pair of white trousers in a heavier linen. Otherwise seems impossible.

I've considered that as an option - or at least, I was thinking like a cream open-weave and crispy wool. But linen could be good too. Too naval though?

 

[Axelman 17]



Blue underneath is too bright for the evening thing I'm going for. Something in the cream/buff range could be OK though I think. Maybe an attempt to reinterpret this guy.

Except for black tie, I guess I am less fussy about evening wear vs. day wear. If I am going out to a gathering that calls for a sportcoat, I will just wear whatever sportcoat I like. I suspect others here feel differently.

 

[whnay.]

Yes but you know this already.

At the end of the day I think you are over thinking this thing. Buy the suit, wear it and be done with it. If you want a nice pair of cream odd trousers build something else around it.

 

[edmorel]

I'm not anti experimenting when it comes to mens clothes but as long as I've been around, "experimenting" with black tie/evening suits usually leads to disaster. A black, peak lapel jacket really has no place in anything other than an evening/dinner suit.

 

[unbelragazzo]

It's not black dammit! Anyway I've really enjoyed the midnight blue velvet evening jacket I have. Even if others haven't. So basically I'm trying to build a summer version of that.

 

[unbelragazzo]



Buy the suit, wear it and be done with it.

In the end this might be the best advice. What I'll probably do is just get the suit and wait on the trousers, maybe sometimes wear some trousers I already have or try it out with some RTW trousers in the store and see if anything grabs me or gives me inspiration to have something else made up.

 

[bboysdontcryy]



My friend, you will be surprised how much lightweight LP and Zegna are praised in our region. If tailor makes clothes that are too durable, they will ended up very little business. Nowadays, even for myself if things deteriorate after 2 years wearing I am pretty happy with it. Sometimes, the Italian lightweights do make up well and look nice and drapey.

I'm not sure which I care more about: A) Whether people who don't know much about cloth praise a 6.5 oz to 7 oz cloth because it's made by Zegna or LP that are reputable names because they have a successful marketing team, or B) People, who read up extensively, and yet still choose reputable English fabrics that are 9.5 oz and above even though they're harder to procure, and the merchants and mills don't really bother to market themselves well. Even Zegna and LP are hardly used in Italy by most reputable tailors (am guessing). But, to each his own

Tailors prefer working with heavier cloths. Heavier cloth suits the bespoke process and is easier to tailor.

Lightweight cloth are more difficult to get right to boot.

 

[Lovelace]



This preference is universal among English tailors, but not necessarily elsewhere. Italians are less likely to grumble about lighter cloth (but I'm talking about lighter being 8-9 ounces here, not this 5 oz stuff).

Italian tailors were better at tailoring lightweight cloths true, but that gap has narrowed ,now that more English customers request them from their tailors. A 7oz cloth requires a different approach than a 14oz.. Italian tailors were used to tailoring it, English tailors weren't. Skill requires exposure.

Most tailors, including Italians prefer to work with heavier, English cloths in my experience.

 

[add911_11]



I'm not sure which I care more about: A) Whether people who don't know much about cloth praise a 6.5 oz to 7 oz cloth because it's made by Zegna or LP that are reputable names because they have a successful marketing team, or B) whether these people shun the heavier cloths that are 9.5 oz and above because English fabrics are harder to procure, and the merchants and mills don't really bother to market themselves well. Even Zegna and LP are hardly used in Italy by most reputable tailors (am guessing). But, to each his own

The point I want to stress is there are always people who prefer very light cloth and brand names, regardless to his needs and durability. Neither myself care about the above propositions. How is your cloth game going?

Most tailors, including Italians prefer to work with heavier, English cloths in my experience.

Can't agreed more.

 

[edmorel]

Nvm.

 

[poorsod]

I wear my lighter than Navy Tonik as a suit. Wearing the coat as an odd jacket works in the pinch but is not optimal. It doesn't look quite right as an odd jacket.

 

[bboysdontcryy]



The point I want to stress is there are always people who prefer very light cloth and brand names, regardless to his needs and durability. Neither myself care about the above propositions. How is your cloth game going?
Can't agreed more.

You're right that a segment of society will always choose brand names, lighter weight stuff etc.

They key as to whether their advice is worth heeding, in my opinion, is who these people disbursing advice are

 

[Lovelace]



I wear my lighter than Navy Tonik as a suit. Wearing the coat as an odd jacket works in the pinch but is not optimal. It doesn't look quite right as an odd jacket.

I agree.

I don't see Mohair as odd jacket material.

 

[bboysdontcryy]



I agree.

I don't see Mohair as odd jacket material.

I wear my lighter than Navy Tonik as a suit. Wearing the coat as an odd jacket works in the pinch but is not optimal. It doesn't look quite right as an odd jacket.

This mohair below?

 

[whnay.]



unbel, you are beginning to worry me. You started off as a normal poster but I think you are slowly heading into the #menswear Matrix.

Pitti exposure is radioactive, ya know?