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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Will you say the Rangoon range is the optimum fabric for south east china weather? It seems you are a great fan of them. May I find out more information?

    I am sorry if the above question has been raised before.
     
  2. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Rangoon is very nice but the very lightest frescos wear cooler. Rangoon holds its shape better, though. Very high performance for its weight. The equal of Lesser Tropical.
     
    2 people like this.
  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The one I just used is from the Classic Worsted book, HS1165, 13 ounce. There are a dozen colors of 11 ounce hopsack in the Force 10 Merino Plains book HS1196
     
  4. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Thank you. I think my tailor doesn't carry any of those books but he should be able to get them...
     
  5. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    There really isn't anything you can do short of standing over the guy's shoulder and prodding him as he sews and irons. And to do that, you'd have to be a heck of a tailor yourself.

    If you don't really trust him, don't give him a very expensive cloth that is will - from everything I've heard - clearly display any and all tailoring missteps.
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2013
  6. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    I have to give it to somebody...just thought the masters like yourself might have some advice on best uses for light cloth.
     
  7. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

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    So is this a hopsack?:

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  9. Winot

    Winot Senior member

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    I picked up a couple of lengths of Rangoon when Minni's were selling it at £16/m - navy blue and a b/w houndstooth. It's pretty good. What was even better though was the Airbourne acquired around the same time - drapes better than the Rangoon despite being lighter weight.
     
  10. DavidLane

    DavidLane Senior member

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    I am curious if anyone has any experience with cloth from B.Black and Sons in LA. They seem to stock quite a range of relatively inexpensive cloth. Has anyone here ordered from them in the past and or present? Any thoughts, experiences?

    I am mostly interested in the tweeds.

    Thanks,

    David-
     
  11. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Does anyone know what fabric this was? I saved this pic from awhile ago. (Kudos to the OP, whoever it was)

    Would it make for a good odd jacket fabric for a medium framed person? (41R) I notice that the scale of the herringbone is big

    Also, any general recommendations for a good brown herringbone fabric?

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2013
  12. Renton

    Renton Senior member

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    I'm pretty sure that's a picture from pocketsquareguy during a NSM visit.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Good eyes! That rings a bell now.

    PSG, did you end up making this as a sportcoat?
     
  14. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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  15. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    I'm sorry for asking what is probably a very obvious question, but although I've commissioned a few suits and jackets, I've always used the tailor's own cloth.

    However, I'm thinking of sourcing some cloth myself, and getting my tailor to make it up into a suit for me (yes, he is happy to do CMT commissions).

    The problem is that I'm not sure exactly how much cloth I will need, so I was hoping that someone could advise me.

    I typically take a size 44 suit, and I have a 38 waist. I'm 6 feet tall (or just over 180cm).

    I'd like to know how much cloth I would need for:

    1) A two piece suit with normal (welted and flapped, no patches) pockets in a plain cloth (so no pattern matching to worry about);

    2) An odd jacket in a PoW check with patch pockets (so extra cloth needed for patch pockets and pattern matching); and

    3) A pair of odd trousers in a plain cloth with side adjusters and 2" cuffs. I've got a 38" waist and a 30" inseam.


    I'm guessing that I'd probably need 4m of cloth for the first option, 2.5 to 3m of cloth for the second option and 1.5m of cloth for the third option, but obviously I'd like to be sure before ordering cloth!

    If anyone could kindly advise, I'd be most appreciative.
     
  16. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ask your tailor, he'll tell you how much you need.
     
  17. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    Hi Journeyman - answer depends on the width, but if the cloth is a standard 5 ft /156 cm width I have been advised to get
    2m for a jacket and 1.5 m for trousers. I'm a 40 Reg, so I'd guess 4m for your size for a 2 piece. hope that's of some use
     
  18. Gruto

    Gruto Senior member

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    As Pliny says, it depends on the tailor. That said, based on personal experience,

    1) 3.20 or 3.30 m should be plenty for 2-piece suit, even for a tall 6.5 person.

    2) 2 m should be enough for a jacket, even for a tall person. Again, some tailors like a little more cloth to play around with.

    3) 1.5 m should be enough for trousers with your size.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2013
  19. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    I am just over 6 feet myself, close to a 41-42 jacket UK and 36 waist.
    I buy 3.4m for a 2 pieces, 1.8 for a jacket, 1.6m for trousers ( I have thick/sporty thighs and for a bold pattern-tartan-was asked 1.7m) e 70cm for a waistcoat. However if the same cutter is doing the whole suit, I know he can use less cloth then the 3.4m I buy.
     
  20. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    For the first try ordering cloth on your own, ask your tailor but if you want a guideline, error on having extra cloth and have the tailor advise you after he has cut a garment for you how much you need for future garments.

    You can translate form yards to meters.

    2 piece suit 4 yards

    Jacket 2.25 yards

    Trouser 2 yards.

    Your waist size doesn't matter when determining cloth for trousers, it's your seat measure because that is the widest part of the pattern. My guess is you have a 46" seat from your other measurements. The width of the backpart will determine how you lay the front panel. If the back part is too wide you have to move the front panel down and this takes extra length. If there isn't enough length the tailor may need to make the trouser with a crotch piece. This is ok but iy is better to not use a crotch piece.
    2" cuffs require 1/8th of a yard more over plain bottom. If you want pleats you may require a bit more cloth. Plain front may need a bit less like 1.75 or 1.825 yards but better to play it safe.

    Cutting a jacket and trouser as separates from two pieces of cloth requires more cloth than a suit. You may end up needing 3.75 yards for a suit and 2.25 yards for a jacket and 2 yards for the trouser or 4.25 total yards for an odd jacket and trouser.

    It's also better to have extra cloth so all the pattern pieces can be cut in one direction. This matters when you have a nap or a patterned cloth with a directional repeat. Reversing pattern pieces make the pieces render different shades of color and will show an irregular shade difference. This is more relevant on more luxe cloths and less an issue on others but you won't probably know the difference yourself.

    The effect when you reverse the pattern direction on the trouser is the fronts and back panel look to be different shades of color, one darker than the other. On the other hand some tailors disregard this to save cloth so you will get what you get.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2013
    5 people like this.

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