Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[camez_]

Hi guys, any recommendation for cream woollen flannel / wool calvary twill / wool whipcord for winter? Cheers

standeven or fox / dugdale / dugdale

 

[paborden]

anyone happen to know the reference # on this one? (hint: solbiati heavyweight linen)

 

[camez_]

anyone happen to know the reference # on this one? (hint: solbiati heavyweight linen)

NS20012

 

[jonathanS]

Do you know of any traveling tailors that visit SF? I decided to go with Divij due to pricing and availability. Some tailors whose work I admire include Sartoria Corcos, WW Chan, and Luca Museo — all with Italian but leaning some structure — but even they aren't available/travel to the US really. As for Liverano... well, many barriers to entry.

Doesn’t WW Chan travel to San Francisco?

San Francisco is an odd town for bespoke tailoring because you don’t really need it. You’re basically left to the enthusiasts. Chan is interesting because traditionally they made English structured garments, but have softened as customers wanted softer garments. It’s funny, I was in marina last week, and the marina part by the bar reminded me a bit of Naples, yet they’re so different in terms of approach to tailoring.

But, I digress, another option is rtw or mtm: vestucci mtm is an option if you’re not a difficult fit. If you’re not a difficult fit, rtw and a local alterations tailor. Even liverano does a rtw, I think you could email them directly about it.

 

[oldworldelegance]

Pretty gorgeous, the Windsor Glen Check by the London Lounge.

View attachment 2026847

View attachment 2026849

This fabric is great. When was it made?

 

[DorianGreen]

This fabric is great. When was it made?

It's a past production, but according to Mr Alden it might be replicated.

 

[Pumpkin Center]

Gents, Thank you for your experience/feedback with Dugdale FEARNOUGHT (18oz/500g) for odd trousers. These 2 are in process with my tailor.

I am now looking for cold season odd trousers in Brown. I run cold so heavier is not a problem. Decided on Flannel fabric and am open to worsted or woolen. Trousers will be worn maybe 10 times max per cold season predominately with knitwear in smart casual settings. Woolen flannels are lovely, drape beautifully but wrinkles give me an eye twitch. Worsted flannels drape beautifully, are robust, rid my eye twitch but appear flat...

Narrowed final search criteria to 1: Brown (preferably dark, neutral/cold shade) 2: 14oz+ 3: Flannel

Any thoughts on
Fox 1772??? I love the brown and green shades
Taylor and Lodge Iconic 2080??? Nice dark brown color and appears robust.
Minnis woolen 14oz??? Brown may work and seems respected by this thread
Harrisons or other contenders to consider???

Feedback on these or other woolen/worsted in brown neutral/cold shade is appreciated.

Regards

 

[Marshak]

Gents, Thank you for your experience/feedback with Dugdale FEARNOUGHT (18oz/500g) for odd trousers. These 2 are in process with my tailor.

I am now looking for cold season odd trousers in Brown. I run cold so heavier is not a problem. Decided on Flannel fabric and am open to worsted or woolen. Trousers will be worn maybe 10 times max per cold season predominately with knitwear in smart casual settings. Woolen are lovely, drape beautifully but wrinkles give me an eye twitch. Worsted flannels drape beautifully, are robust, rid my eye twitch but appear flat...

Decided my only criteria were 1: Dark Brown (preferably neutral/cold shade) 2: 14oz+ 3: Flannel

Any thoughts on
Fox 1772??? I love the shades of brown and green.
Taylor and Lodge Iconic 2080??? Nice dark brown color and appears robust.
Minnis woolen 14oz??? Brown may work and seems respected by this thread
Other contenders to consider???

Feedback on these or others fabrics in neutral/cold brown shade is appreciated.

Regards

My first choice would be the 16/17 os Minnis. A true winter workhorse. Standeven also released a 16oz in their new Stonedale range, seems nice. Worsted Taylor and Lodge? Good but will wrinkle more. I've both Minnis and the later.

 

[kid1002]

Tempted to comission for a full suit made of Loro Piana baby camel hair (cloth originally intended for blazers).

Crazy?
Not so crazy?

 

[CLH03]

Tempted to comission for a full suit made of Loro Piana baby camel hair (cloth originally intended for blazers).

View attachment 2032541

Crazy?
Not so crazy?

The pants will drape horribly and probably blow out. Would be kinda cool though I guess.

 

[bernoulli]

The pants will drape horribly and probably blow out. Would be kinda cool though I guess.

I have had success with having suits made of "blazer-only fabric," but I agree that it is a case-by-case issue. I would consult with the tailor and probe him on suitability. Even the most business-oriented tailor (see China, Republic of) will tell somebody upfront if a fabric has no possibility of working as a suit.

My tailor was not entirely sold on the Minnis Fresco as a suit fabric but thought it could work. It did but I understood that if the trousers were to blow up it would be entirely my fault.

It is all about how comfortable with the risk/reward proposition somebody is, as long as it is feasible.

 

[aristoi bcn]

Tempted to comission for a full suit made of Loro Piana baby camel hair (cloth originally intended for blazers).

View attachment 2032541

Crazy?
Not so crazy?

Not a good idea.

 

[Baked Potato]

Does anyone have a link to Marling & Evan's fall/winter collection? The DropBox link I have doesn't seem to function any longer...

 

[ericgereghty]

anyone happen to know the reference # on this one? (hint: solbiati heavyweight linen)

Please tell me you’re planning that as a suit.

Tempted to comission for a full suit made of Loro Piana baby camel hair (cloth originally intended for blazers).

View attachment 2032541

Crazy?
Not so crazy?

Crazy. Piacenza has a camel hair (lighter weight) that is at least ostensibly intended as suiting. Be curious to give the two a side by side, but that seems a far safer place to start looking.

 

[Pumpkin Center]

My first choice would be the 16/17 os Minnis. A true winter workhorse. Standeven also released a 16oz in their new Stonedale range, seems nice. Worsted Taylor and Lodge? Good but will wrinkle more. I've both Minnis and the later.

Thank you @Marshak for your reply. I was thinking the Tailor and Lodge Worsted Flannel would wrinkle less. Your experience is the Taylor and Lodge wrinkle more? Thank you.