Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[classicalthunde]

Wasn’t T&L a mill weaving for most of the respected merchants? H.Lesser for example?

It these news are true the hit on the merchants’ ranges might be big.

that was my understanding, I think they did the lumbs golden bale range, etc...

 

[oldworldelegance]

Just received this beautiful London Lounge Premium Flannel in Mid-Grey. It will become a DB suit hopefully. This is my first LL flannel and the handle is fantastic, soft and fluffy but strong.
The variation of colour is great.
There's currently an open subscription for the LL Premium RAF PoW flannel if anybody is interested here

 

[jonathanS]

That's such a beautiful thought. Thank You!
1kg/lm is way too much weight & warmth for me... but What do you make of this cloth? looks a little bit coarse for cashmere. Also, unclear to me whether a double breasted, a peacoat or hybrid...but everything together has a very nice Chic...

Update, due to health issues with my tailor, I had to change tailors & will do an ulster for the 1kg cashmere. The new tailor didn’t refuse, but strongly preferred an ulster.

I inquired about getting a peacoat length, but alas, I don’t want to park another 3k in cashmere. Haha. I love the idea though. But seeing as I’m a single guy in my 30s, I’ve got a lot of time before the next generation arrives and wants a 1kg coat.

So question is - whose got the last bits and bobs of fabrics, and how do we get our hands on them haha

Shameless plug. I have a lumbs golden bale for Taylor & lodge gray chalkstripe flannel available.

VINTAGE FABRIC SALE! Carlo Barbera (Kiton), Lumbs Golden Bale, Hunters of Brora, VINTAGE Dormeiul,

All Fabric does not include shipping, which will be added. DM For more details & purchasing. I accept Paypal or Venmo. Discount available if you want to meet in person. Can meet in New York, Washington DC, or San Francisco. May be able to meet...

www.styleforum.net

It’s a one of a kind fabric, you can’t get anymore. If it doesn’t sell, I’ll happily have it made up into a db suit. My one complaint is I get almost no cmt discount!

I should add, I also give friends & family discount; styleforum required me to raise the price bc I couldn’t put the friends & family price (so just let me know!)

 

[brax]

Just received this beautiful London Lounge Premium Flannel in Mid-Grey. It will become a DB suit hopefully. This is my first LL flannel and the handle is fantastic, soft and fluffy but strong.
The variation of colour is great.
There's currently an open subscription for the LL Premium RAF PoW flannel if anybody is interested here

I have this made up. I’ll post pictures soon in “ongoing bespoke” thread.

 

[jonathanS]

I have this made up. I’ll post pictures soon in “ongoing bespoke” thread.

Interested to see how it makes up & hear your thoughts on the fabric as a whole. I wish my tailors gave a greater cmt discount - it doesn’t make sense to pay for LL fabric unless it’s a special fabric (eg 1kg of cashmere). Plus, my tailors seem to collect iconic flannel fabrics often.

 

[brax]

Here’s my T&L jacketing for a navy blazer. Glad that I didn’t sleep on it.

 

[oldworldelegance]

Interested to see how it makes up & hear your thoughts on the fabric as a whole. I wish my tailors gave a greater cmt discount - it doesn’t make sense to pay for LL fabric unless it’s a special fabric (eg 1kg of cashmere). Plus, my tailors seem to collect iconic flannel fabrics often.

The discount for bringing one’s fabric does seem to vary quite a bit between tailors. My tailor charges labour + cloth. He’s always transparent about how much he paid for the cloth. So bringing my own doesn’t cost more than the extra I paid for the fabric itself.

London Lounge fabrics are of very high quality and at times of uncommon designs that couldn’t be found anywhere else. It makes sense to prioritise the latter if cost is an issue. For example, just now there are open subscriptions for the Prince tweed and RAF PoW flannel. It would be very difficult to find something similar anywhere else. They’re unique fabrics without being loud. Very elegant.

Regarding this fabric, it’s a very special woollen/worsted flannel mix (warp worsted, weft woollen). This gives the fabric strength while maintaining the look of a pure wollen flannel. I’ve compared it with a pair of trousers made in heavy Fox flannel (no longer offered, the current classic range is lighter) and the variation of color and “fuzziness” of flannel is pretty much the same, but the LL premium flannel feels stronger and less stretchy. We shall see how it feels when made, but I guess it will hold a crease better and wrinkle less. I will have to wait until November for the first fitting but I will post pictures of the suit when I have it.

 

[oldworldelegance]

I have this made up. I’ll post pictures soon in “ongoing bespoke” thread.

Please do! It would be great to see, thanks.

 

[Concordia]

Crappy development if they are out of commission. There was one pattern I was particularly hoping to get in a DB suit, and their Golden Bale fabrics were excellent value-- and I'm assuming of high quality, given their relationship to Lesser. Must check with A&S to see if they still have sources...

that was my understanding, I think they did the lumbs golden bale range, etc...

 

[classicalthunde]

Here’s my T&L jacketing for a navy blazer. Glad that I didn’t sleep on it.
View attachment 2034661

side note - does any one else get nervous when they make something up from a limited run or out of production fabric? I've never had any major mishaps with an order, but something in the back of my always head reminds me that this can't be replaced.

My T&L classic blazer was going to be my next order in summer '24, but now I might push it back a bit since my vintage doeskin BB blazer (which it was meant to replace) still has some life left in it...

 

[The Chai]

side note - does any one else get nervous when they make something up from a limited run or out of production fabric? I've never had any major mishaps with an order, but something in the back of my always head reminds me that this can't be replaced.

My T&L classic blazer was going to be my next order in summer '24, but now I might push it back a bit since my vintage doeskin BB blazer (which it was meant to replace) still has some life left in it...

Very! I made the mistake experimenting (with different styling or cuts my tailor had never done before) with my rare unfunded liabilities only to have it go bust, whereas the fabrics I had easy access to resulted in commissions I still wear today simply because I did not try to go too much off the beaten path.

These days whenever I wanna try a new cut or style (currently experimenting with 80s inspired Armani Drape) I'd get my tailor to use a muslin fitting and then try it out with fabrics I have easy access to. Only after getting say 2 or 3 in that style or cut I would then venture using my rare cloth.

 

[reidd]

Very! I made the mistake experimenting (with different styling or cuts my tailor had never done before) with my rare unfunded liabilities only to have it go bust, whereas the fabrics I had easy access to resulted in commissions I still wear today simply because I did not try to go too much off the beaten path.

These days whenever I wanna try a new cut or style (currently experimenting with 80s inspired Armani Drape) I'd get my tailor to use a muslin fitting and then try it out with fabrics I have easy access to. Only after getting say 2 or 3 in that style or cut I would then venture using my rare cloth.

I agree with this approach. Gotta save the vintage treasure trove for tailors/cuts you know are already spot on.

 

[The Chai]

I agree with this approach. Gotta save the vintage treasure trove for tailors/cuts you know are already spot on.

Even with the rare vintage treasures, I think it's more the hype if anything. For most of my stuff made from fabrics I consider "rare" (I hunt for alot of deadstock mohair), I find myself reaching out for them less than the regular stuff.

 

[kolecho]

Even with the rare vintage treasures, I think it's more the hype if anything. For most of my stuff made from fabrics I consider "rare" (I hunt for alot of deadstock mohair), I find myself reaching out for them less than the regular stuff.

Could not agree more with the whole vintage cloth hype. Though there are some occasional gems to be had, I much prefer taking time to track down cloths in current/recent bunches than making decisions on the fly at the tailor's.

 

[lordsuperb]

Any thoughts on which fabric samples I should stash away?