Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I meant that the LL post is gone and if I still have the coat I would take a picture. But I found an old photo of it. [​IMG]. It is a soft, plush, cashmere feeling thing, though I don't think it is cashmere. It is too dark too serve as a comfy sweater, styled wrong, and not a great sport coat fabric. A mistake all around. To make matters worse, it never fit right and Dege couldn't really fix it, though they tried.
     


  2. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ah, yes. One of the legendary gaps in Dege service.

    I can see why you went for it, though, as it is nice-looking. Perhaps specifying something a little less crisp in detail (notch lapels and open patches, even 3-button) would have made it more friendly.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2014


  3. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    dopey, this is the aspect of bespoke clothing which gives me pause. Dropping that kind of coin to end up with something unwearable... I am at the edge, but haven't summoned the nerve to step off.
     


  4. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    Well, what is something you would wear the shit out of?
     


  5. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This one was a failure for a number of reasons that all came together. I will say that is my only real bespoke regret and failure though there are things I don't wear much. Nonetheless failure is a risk.


    sometimes you can't know in advance and it just settles on you after a while. I would not have anticipated that I would wear my flannel DB suits so much, but I do. Same with the sport coat I posted above. Also, I wear things in waves. Maybe wearing the same thing every week for a while, then putting it away and forgetting about it.
    The best you can do is put the odds in your favor by understanding what about what you already wear makes you happy.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2014


  6. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    I agree. I was trying to be functional about asking that question without overtly biasing towards that particular lens. I figured anything one would "wear the shit out of" is something you sort of have to be happy with. Definitely agree though that it's not always straight forward.
     


  7. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This one was a failure for a number of reasons that all came together. I will say that is my only real bespoke regret and failure though there are things I don't wear much. Nonetheless failure is a risk.


    If you were happy with the fit do you think you would like it/wear it more or is it more cloth,color,styling, etc. that is off putting?

    I once made a suit in navy twill and never wore it once. Didn't care for it. That was totally cloth and styling. Things that don't feel right get worn a lot less if at all.

    Just curious what you think.
     


  8. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The combination made it unwearable. The fit wasn't terrible (collar keeps riding up and away) and if I loved the rest of it I could live with the fit issues or would have just brought it to a different tailor to fix. If it fit well I am sure I would wear it once in a while because it is a comfy cloth and seemed to have occasional uses as a kind of evening sport coat. But the combination made it a dud.
     


  9. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    For a first commission, I don't think I'd go for anything out there in terms of fabric or styling. My concern is more about the fit, ending up with something that just can't be salvaged.

    I actually hope to crowdsource my decision a bit. Stay tuned. Or don't. You know, whatever. :)
     


  10. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    Not to scare you off from getting your first bespoke commission. A very good friend with a lot of experience in bespoke clothing told me once you'll more than likely end up not throwing out your first bespoke commission in the bin. He calls it tuition fees.
     


  11. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It is hard to pair a lighter colored trouser with that jacket. It looks like a light shade of blue/grey on the screen to me. If you wear darker grey or navy, you may not be used to a light color jacket and darker trouser combo, but what do I know! Say this because have had clients that didn't wear/like things for that reason but couldn't pinpoint the reasoning.

    If the collar isn't staying on your neck, what is causing the issue would make the jacket uncomfortable and annoying to wear. Jacket is always fighting you.
     


  12. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Have never understood this occurrence.
     


  13. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Can I get a quick show of hands? Who here found their first commission unworkable?
     


  14. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Senior member

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    My one bespoke suit is my least favorite suit. Tailor's style ultimately did not jibe with my style... too structured, not enough freedom of movement, and also just doesn't look as good as what I can find off the rack from some makers. My choice of cloth was not ideal though, heavier would have been better. Pants are very nice though.

    I'm very jelly about the bespoke crowd's ability to pick and choose cloths as in this thread. That's the main thing that tempts me about more bespoke at this point.

    But: 1) The jackets and suits that I ultimately buy OTR look better on me than a most of the bespoke stuff I see on SF (I guess I am lucky with build, and I am very choosy); 2) The iterations of fittings are a very big hassle given my schedule limitations; & 3) The price differential usually favors OTR. So I have yet to go back to bespoke.

    Maybe if and when I have way more free time I will try again with another shop known for a softer shoulder.
     


  15. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    I think what he meant was people end up choosing wrong tailors, adding too many bells and whistle for their first commission.

    My own experience was choosing a black suit as my first commission many moons ago before SF to the angst of my tailor, I've ended wearing the suit only a handful of times.
     


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