Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.
Unworkable, no, but (see above) I'm not really thrilled to wear it and prefer others.
Thanks, gents. dopey? aportnoy? Manton? pB? TRINI? (and any others, of course)
For my first true bespoke suits, I had a client pay for his traveling tailor to make a suit for me. Not a fan of the fabric, style, or fit. Simultaneously (or close to it), Despos was making a suit for me. It's as great as you would expect.
My first bespoke suit was for my wedding. Did it's job admirably that day, but the shade of light grey limited it's usefulness thereafter. I might have chosen something else if I'd known then what I know now (it was pre SF). Haven't put it on a while, wonder if it still fits at all...
Is that why you are frowning in your avatar picture? You just tried on your suit!
So your tailor tried to dissuade you from ordering a black suit?
There is an intangible aspect when ordering custom clothing. You don't know how the silhouette of the maker will render on your frame. That's what happened to yuppie. You don't know how the jacket will feel or move on you or with you until it is finished. I don't rush first fittings with a client. I tend to have them linger and watch how the jacket moves or how they respond when doing normal movements. Fitting clothes while you are static in front of the mirror isn't realistic. Jackets and trousers need a kinetic quality so you don't notice them when you wear them.
I am reluctant when someone is ordering every option they can think of. I understand the reasoning. With RTW you have no options so given the opportunity they can ask for details they like.
Some of the best options with custom clothing aren't styling but functional. I like to size pockets to what you carry to minimize movement. Like a pocket to hold your glasses or sunglasses without them falling sideways in a wider pocket.
It's all about personalization.
Make a lot of suits for weddings. Better to get something that can be practical to your lifestyle afterwards.
I wear my first bespoke suit often still. It was a navy birdseye, so safe color, and the tailor and I clicked well with style choices. That said, I had a couple failures in MTM with other tailors previously which I learned from.
An H lesser flannel double breasted suit was my first bespoke suit last year. I wear it once a week during this winter.
If I looked like the person in my avatar I would avoid showing my face.
Yeah. Something I love about RTW and fear about bespoke. I am a careful/deliberate guy and like knowing what I'm getting.
I think my tailor was more enthusiastic about tightening up the back around the shoulders/underarms than I was, and it's tight across the back when I stretch my arms forward. Not massively, but noticeably and annoyingly.
I think some of it is finding a tailor who is capable and willing to work with your ignorance. At least, this was my experience. The suit Despos made for me is awesome and I love wearing it.
Is that you looking through my window?
Only on the nights when I'm cold and lonely. The other nights its that guy Jeff. You know the one - he says you do.
I have - on the first commission from a few different tailors, actually. 'Unworkable' overstates the case a bit but they're hardly ever worn.
If you go into it realizing that, it's a little less galling (though obviously still expensive).
I'd recommend getting something that naturally has a bit shorter life or that you'd already wear less frequently - cotton, linen or even flannel (I know some flannels are relatively hardy but yea). The downside to that is that the first two are somewhat quirky cloths to fit / tailor so it isn't an ideal starting point in that regard.
You're depressing me, Canta.
My first was a navy workhorse from Chan. I don't love it, but it still get a lot of use out of it. My second order was more successful but I wouldn't order another from them.
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