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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Calm down, everyone, the jacket would not be gray! (looking back at my original post I realize this was not clear at all, sorry)
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2013
  2. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have a three piece suit on the way in that (or something very much like it). Coat is one-button, but notch lapels.
     
  3. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've considered making it a three-piece too after seeing ethandesu's makeup, which looks great. But I don't know how much I'd wear the vest, given that I'll wear this mostly in the summer, when it will be hot as blazes.
     
  4. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Oh, and btw...I had promised to report back after looking at the Dormeuil 'Naturals' book - some nice stuff in there, but a lot of it is very shiny, and very lightweight (like down to 6.5 oz for some fabrics). The silk/linen 8 oz blends looked nice, I'm kind of considering it for an odd trouser. Here's a pic of the Tonik next to some of the silk/linens (obviously these are the lighter shade options):

    [​IMG]
     
  5. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Stay tuned folks, I had purchase some heavy weight flannels, one in 450g and 510g. Also a length of dark grey chalkstripe in 12-13oz, the cheapest business suiting length I have brought in my life.
     
  6. Lovelace

    Lovelace Senior member

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    Gentlemen, there is nothing wrong with SBPL odd jackets.

    PL add a bit of dash to a sportscoat IMO.

    I have several and recommend them.
     
  7. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Who actually makes up a suit in 6.5 oz, or 7 oz as per Holland & Sherry's Dragonfly beats me. It's not even about the price. They look like they won't even hold their shape, not to mention it'll go in half a year.
     
  8. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yea I don't think I'd go below 8 oz.
     
  9. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    I was at Harry Rosen's in their MTM department with a friend who was picking up a tux last year. I was talking to their rep about MTM/bespoke, etc and he was saying they consider 9 oz and above winter weight (!!!!) and they go down to 5 oz for summer suiting & sportscoats.
     
  10. Lovelace

    Lovelace Senior member

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    Easier to fuse cloth of that weight. i should imagine.
     
  11. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    I think we're in the minority in liking heavier fabrics. Seems like most everything these days is super light, even "winter" suits. I think people like the way it feels, and don't know enough to know that it won't likely look as good or last as long.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  12. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't mind the fabric but still think it will look weird paired with other trousers. Why not just buy the suit and wear it as such? And if your going to go the SBPL route you might as well seal the deal with jetted pockets - make it a true dinner / club suit.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2013
  13. Lovelace

    Lovelace Senior member

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    Tailors prefer working with heavier cloths. Heavier cloth suits the bespoke process and is easier to tailor.
     
  14. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, it will have jetted pockets too. I'll have the suit, but I want to experiment with trying to maintain the evening elegance of it without the "why are you wearing a suit?" questions in evening locales where they're usually not worn. Might be impossible.
     
  15. Lovelace

    Lovelace Senior member

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    He can just tuck the flaps in.
     
  16. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Senior member

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    The black yarns woven into it seem to make it hard to pair with something like creme or khaki. I just think you could find a better cloth for a sportcoat that would serve your purpose. Heck, the blue underneath the one you chose would work better.
     
  17. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This preference is universal among English tailors, but not necessarily elsewhere. Italians are less likely to grumble about lighter cloth (but I'm talking about lighter being 8-9 ounces here, not this 5 oz stuff).
     
  18. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    My friend, you will be surprised how much lightweight LP and Zegna are praised in our region. If tailor makes clothes that are too durable, they will ended up very little business. Nowadays, even for myself if things deteriorate after 2 years wearing I am pretty happy with it. Sometimes, the Italian lightweights do make up well and look nice and drapey.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2013
  19. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is true but since I'm never going to wear the flaps out, and sometimes they'll come out by accident, I'd rather just go without them. It's not so heavy a cloth that tucking the flaps in will create an impression in the outer cloth or be too bulky I don't think, but still, there's no point in having them if I'll never want them.


    Blue underneath is too bright for the evening thing I'm going for. Something in the cream/buff range could be OK though I think. Maybe an attempt to reinterpret this guy.
     
  20. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Only thing I can think that might work is a pair of white trousers in a heavier linen. Otherwise seems impossible.
     

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