Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The Canonized Orthodox American version does. But the earlier versions, from which it derived generally did not. The earlier ones typically had a convertible, ulster style collar and a full belt, which made sense given their purpose and origin. Once it became the rage in the U.S., the half belt and DB style peak lapel were established as the standard.

    I like them either way, though my "polo" is really cashmere and has slash pockets, an ulster collar, full belt and, alas, no cuffs. But it was a gift from a forumite, so I have no complaints.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2012


  2. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    I think that Chan fits better.
     


  3. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Gram, thanks for posting that but I can't observe any difference between the three modern photos, aside from cloth.

    If it is the angle of lapels like Manton says, wouldn't King Edward's coat be the only polo?
     


  4. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    OK, I guess I am used to the American version. I would call any coat with an Ulster collar an "Ulster" even if it is camel hair.

    I got a bespoke camel hair polo last year but the winter was so mild I did not even wear it once.
     


  5. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think you are just seeing the sillhouette that you like better, not the fit.
     


  6. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    That's a good point. The Chan definitely hugs the body more so than the Steed so it may appear to fit better at first glance. It is certainly more "fitted" if that makes sense. My general style these days is more relaxed. As you've all probably noticed, I'm much more into blues, grays and atumnal colors than bright ones. The Steed drape style seems to fit this sensibility well. That mixed with very comfortable items make for a good combination.

    I really like the snap that the Steed items have in the waist. There's a nice swoop about them that is just right. The word pizazz comes to mind albeit in an understated fashion.

    I'll be getting in a DB suit in Lumb's Golden Bale navy blue flannel with red windowpane from Steed in soon and will try and post fit pics to compare against the Chan. Might not be for a little while though.
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2012


  7. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    What is the distinction between fit and silhouette?
     


  8. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    The silhouette is the shape, style of cut.
     


  9. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    The way I have seen the word "fit" used seems to be pretty broad. To me the word includes the general overall aesthetic and includes "silhouette". The concepts seem inter-related.
     


  10. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well to me fit are things likethe collar staying on the neck, the line of the shoulder, sleeve pitch, balance. All of that should be the same regardless of style of cut.
     


  11. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    they are distinct. If a jacket hugs your neck, is on the shoulder line or slightly extended, is balanced, is the correct length, and the sleeves follow the curve of your arms, it fits. Everytthing else is a matter of style/cut.
     


  12. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Perhaps fit describes the application of the silhouette to the body?
     


  13. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Credit where credit is due I learned it from Manton's book. But it makes sense to me. Certain aspects shouldn't change with the style of cut.
     


  14. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Can you please elaborate more on the extended shoulders? Trying to understand exactly what it is and how it is achieved.
    thanks.
     


  15. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Just feel your shoulder inside the jacket. If it's flush against the top of the sleeve, that's a fitted shoulder. If the top of the coat extends out a hair (a fraction of an inch) past the natural shoulder line, it's extended.

    Extended shoulder lines are common on draped coats and also are used to give very narrow shouldered and shallow chested guys an appearance of solidity.
     


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