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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. aravenel

    aravenel Well-Known Member

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    Great read, thanks for posting!
     
  2. whnay.

    whnay. Well-Known Member

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    tonik is too dense for me, I'd imagine it would wear very hot down here.
     
  3. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Well-Known Member

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    Whnay, do you mean the older Tonik or the newer Tonik 2000? The older Tonik is very dense and heavy, and would be unbearable to wear in the heat.
     
  4. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    Really? Looking at the swatches, held up to the light they were quite see through.
     
  5. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    ^ That's Manton's old article in The American, right? A great read.
     
  6. whnay.

    whnay. Well-Known Member

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    Older tonik, I haven't seen the new tonik 2000 book.
     
  7. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    Tonik2000 (10.5 oz, 30 perc mohair) is heavier than what is currently produced as 'Tonik' (8 oz, 60 perc mohair), but I don't know if this Tonik is the same as "the old Tonik". Both seemed quite open in the swatches I saw.
     
  8. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Well-Known Member

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    The older Tonik is different. Rough and very heavy (heavier than 10.5 oz by quite a bit), and dissimilar to anything in the present line-up.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2013
  9. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    Useful info, thank you. I'm leaning towards just going with the Tonik2000, made up as a suit, with single button peak lapel jacket.

    Apologies if I've explained this before ITT: I'm planning on wearing it as an odd jacket in the evening too. Any suggestions for a cloth for trousers to go with it? I'm hoping for something dark grey, with enough contrast from the sheen of the mohair and the lighter threads woven in on the Tonik to make it work.
     
  10. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    The Dormeiul Ice book has mohair combos that you might want to check out too.
     
  11. whnay.

    whnay. Well-Known Member

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    I don't know, doesn't seem versatile enough. Single button peak should be reserved for a tux or dinner suit. If you go with dark gray it becomes a nightmare for pairing with trousers.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    It's not really intended to be that versatile - it's not for business and the like. As a suit, it's basically for evening weddings that don't require black tie, nice restaurants, etc..

    The jacket as a separate I hope to be more versatile, again as something to be worn in evening social settings. I agree with dark gray trousers it's difficult to get enough contrast - but I'm hoping to find something successful so as not to resort to the lighter colored trousers that I associate less with evening.
     
  13. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    I am down on single peak (this is a conversion of sorts from a prior opinion) and WAY down on single peak as an odd jacket (always held this opinion), and way, way, WAY down on gray odd jackets (ditto).
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2013
  14. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    It's an odd odd jacket, I'll grant. But for some reason I've always had an affinity for it on linen (I doubt you approve at all), and I like peaks for anything that's primarily worn at night. Or shawl, but that's really limiting.
     
  15. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    I have a SBPL odd jacket of the LL oats linen that I should be picking up in a few days...I will post a pic so that you can inveigh against it.
     
  16. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Well-Known Member

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    I don't care for peaks at all on odd jackets but find them OK on sporty suits, when done with restraint. And we've established my opinion on gray odd jackets.
     
  17. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    I have a couple SBPL sportcoats, including in linen, from the Avery Lucas days. That should tell you something--it is a very 1930s Apparel Arts look.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  18. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Well-Known Member

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    +1
     
  19. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    it's one thing to have a gray odd jacket in herringbone or something but a dark gray shiny mohair?

    No.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    To be clear - the suit (and therefore the jacket also) would be a kind of midnight blue with some lighter blue threads woven in, not gray. Gray was a potential idea for the odd trousers to go with the jacket when worn separately. It's the fabric on top here for the suit:

    http://cdn.styleforum.net/1/11/115a83c3_photo-1_zpsc56b3e87.jpeg
     

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