Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    9,420
    Likes Received:
    282
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2005
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    Pretty limited context don't you think?
     
  2. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,356
    Likes Received:
    4,533
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    

    Maybe? Depends on your tastes and lifestyle I guess. There's an evening following every summer day. If you never wear tailored clothing at night, then there's little point. But if you wear tailored clothing every evening, you've got just as much use for a summer evening jacket as any other summer jacket.

    In general jackets for the daytime look much less out of place at night than vice versa, if only because people go out after work without time to change quite frequently, and it's much better to be dressed appropriately for work and "inappropriately" for going out later than the other way around. But still, a peak lapeled mohair blend jacket would look quite nice in the evening, and an improvement over the 520 fresco jacket I think.

    I wouldn't recommend such a jacket as someone's second or third odd jacket. But if they already have a diverse wardrobe of a dozen or so? It merits consideration. I have a peak-lapeled single button velvet jacket - I wear it only in the evening of course, but it gets plenty of use, and I'm happy to wear something in the evening that isn't officewear.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2012
  3. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    9,420
    Likes Received:
    282
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2005
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    Outside of odd dinner jackets (velvet, tartan, etc), I hate the idea of a peak lapeled odd jacket...but that's just me.
     
  4. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,356
    Likes Received:
    4,533
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    

    It's an understandable position to take. Currently I have an irrational desire for a peak-lapeled odd jacket in the LL oats linen. I may come to regret it, but I think at this point I am decided on it.
     
  5. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,356
    Likes Received:
    4,533
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    

    Also, I assume you're speaking only of single-breasted jackets? Unless you dislike all double-breasted odd jackets as well?
     
  6. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    9,420
    Likes Received:
    282
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2005
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    Just single breasted, although a double breasted tweed coat generally looks odd....
     
  7. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,356
    Likes Received:
    4,533
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    

    As an odd jacket, I agree. A double-breasted tweed overcoat however....:slayer:
     
  8. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    9,420
    Likes Received:
    282
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2005
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    Agreed, would be good - although I think I'm partial to a good ole fashion polo coat
     
  9. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,356
    Likes Received:
    4,533
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    

    Agreed, it's hard to improve upon. My next overcoat will certainly be a camel hair polo coat. Incidentally, I came across this article recently, I hope it's not uncouth to post it here:

    http://kaufmann-mercantile.com/camel-hair-coat/
     
  10. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    7,688
    Likes Received:
    12,467
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    A polo coat is also high on my list. I have a navy Guard's coat right now that I wear in heavy winters, but also want a tweed Ulster. The ones I saw at Panico's workshop were really incredible.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2012
  11. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,356
    Likes Received:
    4,533
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    At this point, what's the difference between a polo coat and an ulster coat? At the very least it seems like many overcoats could be described as both?
     
  12. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    7,688
    Likes Received:
    12,467
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    I think the world of men's coats is very poorly defined. There are many types of polo coats, but if we were to go with the one most people understand, that golden tan camel hair fabric is a requirement, but the Ulster collar less so. I've seen peak lapeled polo coats, for example, still be referred to as polos. On the other hand, an Ulster coat needs an Ulster collar, but can be made from a wider variety of materials.

    We should start a thread titled something like "In Celebration of Men's Dress Coats." Or something like that. I don't know if one has already been created, but having a special thread dedicated to talking about dress coats might be worthwhile. Maybe I start one?
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2012
  13. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

    Messages:
    1,813
    Likes Received:
    332
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2007
    Location:
    Hong Kong / Darien
    The Polo has a wide, flat shoulder, envelope pockets and turnback cuffs and (sometimes) a half belt. It's also typically in camel hair and cut looser.

    The Ulster is essentialy a double-breasted chesterfield, with the sweeping / curved peak lapels, and always with a half belt.

    In short, they're very similar except for the cut and shoulder.

    Polo:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Ulster:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2012
  14. rob

    rob Senior member

    Messages:
    456
    Likes Received:
    39
    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2006
    

    Yes, please do. I just spent a large amount of time reviewing what has been posted and the closest to a comprehensive thread is one started by Manton when he was looking to make one up. I also fruitlessly spent hours trying to find a pic of a Rubinacci that Isillismatt had made. I just ordered one last week and may be willing to post my first pic.

    Rob
     
  15. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,568
    Likes Received:
    2,807
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    I think a polo has peak (upturned) lapels. That's the way I always see them.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by