Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    He was one of my favorite tailors in the O'Mast video. My Italian friend filled in some of his comments that didn't make the translation. Kindred spirit.
     


  2. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    +1. Definitely old-skool!

    Panico was pretty cool as well.
     


  3. coolal

    coolal Senior member

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    One liability funded:

    (13oz London Lounge RAF PoW Brisa)

    [​IMG]

    Two liabilities added to the closet:

    (13oz London Lounge Linen PoW Suiting)

    Seasons be damned, I can't wait to have these linens made up for LA's permanent summer.

    [​IMG]
     


  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That looks great, who made it?
     


  5. forex

    forex Senior member

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    coolal, are those LL linens? How do you like them? Stiff or soft and spongy? I am thinking about brown PoW so feedback would be appreciated.
     


  6. coolal

    coolal Senior member

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    Thanks, Richard Lim in Los Angeles made it. I posted additional pics as an update to this review thread I started last year:

    Full Review - Richard Lim Tailor - PLUS - Finished Navy Summer Jacket Pics



    Forex, yes they are LL linens. Specifically the "Cypress" and "Oakmont". I absolutely love the fabric. It has a bit of body and drapes nicely. It's not exactly spongy, but does border on it. It's very soft though and breathes well. Couldn't be happier.
     


  7. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I am total Jelly when I see LL special clothes.
     


  8. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    If it's any consolation, I think Minnis Fresco and H&S Crispaire are much, much better than Brisa and come in almost all the same colors.
     


  9. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Why Crispaire? I haven't handled Brisa, but Crispaire seemed rather uninteresting to me for anything other than practical suiting.
     


  10. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    Me too. Cantabrigian, I'm curious about your comment. For instance, the LL cloths are typically much heavier than the others you mentioned. A heavy fresco seems like a good idea, though I can understand why it wouldn't have broad appeal.
     


  11. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Crispaire is practical - its smoother than the Minnis but still wears quite cool. It's much better for a lightweight work suit IMO since it looks more refined. Though I do prefer the Minnis overall. The Minnis holds a crease better, feels sturdier and has a more interesting texture.

    It isn't the weight of Brisa that bothers me - I'll wear the 15/16 oz stuff from Minnis. (As an aside, I can't tell the difference between the very heavy weight H&S / Minnis. At lesser weights, the difference is obvious.)

    The Brisa feels soft and almost squishy. The Crispaire has a much nicer hand and the Minnis is nicer still. The Brisa feels insubstantial and like its going to stretch. It can't hold any sort of crease for more than 15 minutes of wear.

    The only suit I have from it is an early batch so maybe those problems were corrected but in my experience, it lacks both the charm and practicality of the other cloths.
     


  12. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    I really don't like the Crispaire - too 'slick' for a fresco. Never seen the Brisa, but the Minnis and the Smith are both excellent.

    There also doesn't seem to be much love on SF for mohair. If you like Fresco, you may want to take a look at a mohair mix book as well.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2012


  13. yywwyy

    yywwyy Senior member

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    How does the Crispaire wear? Is it as cool as Minnis?
     


  14. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    I have an old Brisa (purchased from Cantabrigian) not yet made up and I just had a fitting in the new POW blue/gray Brisa. The new one definitely seems softer, but with some added grip. It had a very unique feeling as I felt it primarily from the POW weave itself. You could really feel each little nuance in the pattern. Very cool. I really liked it and it seemed like it would wear cooler than I expected.
     


  15. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    coolal - looks great! Your jacket almost seems lighter than mine! It is interesting how this particularly does seem to really change in each lighting.
     


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