Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[9thsymph]

Those pictures show me wearing it with flannel and moleskin pants. I have certainly worn it with cords as well. I’m a fan.

How does the 14821 wear in terms of season. Spring/Fall?

 

[Zekyna]

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[Patrick R]

How does the 14821 wear in terms of season. Spring/Fall?

It is certainly best suited for spring/fall. But I wear it all four seasons without issue. The same as I would an OCBD.

 

[kolecho]

Given all the talk about Spring Ram lately, I chose to give it a go. Will have a DB suit ready for a fitting in Naples in the middle of February, should be nice. The cloth, through my tailor, ended up costing 348 EUR which reckon isn't to bad (at least when one is used to paying 100 GBP pr. meter for LL stuff). Will report back after fitting, possibly in the ongoing bespoke thread.

Cheers,
SKM

That sounds about right. Spring Ram is around GBP90+ per metre.

 

[Alan Bee]

13oz Holland & Sherry Birds Eye ......

Alan Bee .....

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @Alan Bee,

It's a great ensemble, really fond of the shirt collar!

BTW, is the tie E. & G. Cappelli bespoke? Could you share details please?

Best,

Dimitris

 

[Alan Bee]

Dear @Alan Bee,

It's a great ensemble, really fond of the shirt collar!

BTW, is the tie E. & G. Cappelli bespoke? Could you share details please?

Best,

Dimitris

Thanks @Bespoke DJP .

Dimitris, no this isn't one of the Cappelli bespoke neckties. This particular necktie has been with me well over ten years. Its a soft cashmere RL Purple Label number in charcoal gray which I must have picked up from the Polo Mansion on 72nd & Madison in NYC. I only discovered bespoke neckwear in the last four years while canvassing the narrow alleys of Napoli for all things artisan.

Shirt is however bespoke. It is a very light grey (which can be very tricky to pull off). I chose this particular collar because I have a "roundish" face which calls for a narrower point collar rather than a wide spread or cutaway collar. The problem with point collar is that they point downward and away from the coat lapel, yielding an unfinished, floating gap between the collar and lapel. To keep the point of the collar sufficiently tucked under the coat lapels, I usually specify a longer point collar (10cm as opposed to 9cm) for bespoke shirt commissions.

Hope its helpful ...

Alan Bee

 

[mactire]

I only discovered bespoke neckwear in the last four years while canvassing the narrow alleys of Napoli for all things artisan.

Who do you go to for ties in Naples? Either RTW or bespoke.

Thanks @Bespoke DJP
I have a "roundish" face which calls for a narrower point collar rather than a wide spread or cutaway collar. The problem with point collar is that they point downward and away from the coat lapel, yielding an unfinished, floating gap between the collar and lapel. To keep the point of the collar sufficiently tucked under the coat lapels, I usually specify a longer point collar (10cm as opposed to 9cm) for bespoke shirt commissions.

I'm in a similar boat, how do you manage to keep the collar points flat to the shirt? Are they button-under points or is there another construction being used?

 

[Alan Bee]

Who do you go to for ties in Naples? Either RTW or bespoke.



I'm in a similar boat, how do you manage to keep the collar points flat to the shirt? Are they button-under points or is there another construction being used?

I get all my ties made by Patrizio Cappelli. I haven’t bought RTW ties since 2009 or thereabout.

To hold the collar down I use simple brass collar stays. That combined with a long collar point usually does the job.

Of course this assumes that the coat collar is cut properly and fits snuggly around your shirt collar. It would be far more difficult to keep the shirt collar tucked in if your coat lapel is splaying away from your neck.

Alan Bee

 

[blueberry7]

I just read that in your voice. Damn.

 

[jssdc]

Wow AB I didn’t know that anyone actually read The National.

 

[The Chai]

Has anyone had a sports jacket made using the jacketings from Kynoch? It's a cotton wool blend...

 

[Fraussie]

That sounds about right. Spring Ram is around GBP90+ per metre.

Guess you guys can count yourselves lucky to have access to that cloth for GBP90/m... In Singapore, Harrisons now has an agent and the price is GBP155/m.... Lamlana is GBP170+...

 

[Alan Bee]

Wow AB I didn’t know that anyone actually read The National.

In these parts, you gotta always be on the ball with local geopolitics man

Alan Bee

 

[Zekyna]

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