Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[bdavro23]

Fair enough Fassbinder, you may block or scroll past my posts and likewise afford me the same liberty.

I am still awaiting your "edict" on what constitutes appropriateness and therefore the finite limits of this thread. Look, this place is a well of knowledge, if you've got an active blog I'd love to see it - thats how learning is done. And how would I know your blog exists if it weren't brought to my attention via a niche group such as SF?

I think you'd be well served to take a less dogmatic approach. This is not the US Supreme Court for Jakes sake ....

As to Tony Montana's response, I'm still not sure what difference it makes whether I post videos outright or "discretely" advertise my channel as you advise. You consider it acceptable to advertise discreetly in the same thread but otherwise in bad taste?

Interesting ....

Alan Bee

Since it seems like this is now the point of the thread, I suppose I'll share my thoughts as well: I would prefer if you didnt continue to post videos, etc in this thread. It just seems like off topic spam to me. I dont have anything against you or really even that you are basically advertising here, but I also dont post about John Lobb shoes in this thread because it isnt the appropriate place.

Just my two cents...

 

[Alan Bee]

The thread is about cloth for bespoke clothing. I don't understand your objections to finding a more appropriate thread for posts that aren't related to this subject matter.

Of course it is Patrick. It is a thread about cloth for bespoke clothing but not about bespoke clothing. Any discussion regarding bespoke clothing is verboten. I get it, very sound logic.

I will leave it here as I'd rather not to inflame the thread any further.

Alan Bee

 

[wigglr]

 

[Andy57]

Does anyone have an opinion on getting a jacket with a one piece back?

I did this with my boating stripe blazer. I think if your tailor is keen to do it then it can be an interesting way to go. For my own part, however, I don't think I'd bother with a one-piece back again. Certainly not for anything that wasn't simply vertical stripes...like a boating stripe blazer.

 

[P-K-L]

How hard is it for you to understand that this thread is about cloth? There is an Ongoing Bespokes Projects thread which is dedicated to bespoke tailoring. But I would argue that your videos don't belong there either. The idea that one can skip your videos is beside the point. They are just more noise on an already over-polluted and commercialized web site. For many long term members and perhaps some newbs, this was one of the last interesting corners of SF. If there are no posts for a few days or hours on this thread who cares? There are 1447 pages you can reread if you are bored. But now when I receive an alert that there is a new post on this thread, my time is wasted when i discover its another Alan Bee video. Your videos and the discussion surrounding them detract from the topic of cloth. How many more advertisements do we need for your Vblog? Any one who likes it can subscribe to that. Perhaps they can follow you on insta too.

You have already asked if you can wear 16oz cloth in Dubai, really is there anything else we need to know.

You sir are a jealous arrogant idiot. He is turning 40 and could easily pass for 25, not to mention he is married to a drop dead gorgeous wife. PRO TIP come to SD and say things like "Hitting puberty might help though" around me and the people I know; on my mothers life I could make one phone call and send you back to puberty with your balls cut off and stuffed in your face, later to be found in a ditch on the outskirts of Tijuana by Polica Federal. No joke, have respect for everybody and yourself or deal with the consequences of your actions. That is grown man talk so handle your business accordingly.

 

[jcmeyer]

Last time Steed rolled through I snapped a picture of a Drapers swatch I liked but I'm having trouble picturing what it will look like made up. Would the horizontal be the same as the vertical with six lighter lines and two green? Anyone have a jacket or a picture of one that might resemble this? @Mr. Six gave me one but I'm looking for a couple more data points. General opinions on the fabric certainly welcome as well.

Also, anyone know where Solito's check fabric might have come from in this pic? I dig it, although I would want to see if there were other colorways available as I'd like to find something in the general color scheme as the Drapers.

 

[fassbinder]

View attachment 790262

Also, anyone know where Solito's check fabric might have come from in this pic?

View attachment 790267

Holland and Sherry I believe. I think it's a cashmere blend.

 

[aristoi bcn]

I really like the cloth/cut of the jacket that Avitabile is wearing there.

 

[dieworkwear]

I will leave it here as I'd rather not to inflame the thread any further.

"OkayHeSpoke"

 

[dfoverdx]

Thanks everyone for the input on trench coat fabrics and construction. It has been most enlightening.

I am also gearing up for my first bespoke suit. I have my heart set on a glen check, though it needs to be conservative enough for work

I'm currently looking swatches from H&S Cape Horn and Huddersfield Fine Worsted's Blenheim 2. I was also considering picking up the LL Raf blue brisa being sold by one of the members on here, though I'm a little unsure whether the resulting suit would be conservative enough for work wear.

Can anyone comment on the books mentioned or opinions on the fabrics I have been considering.

H&S cape Horn

Huddersfield Blenheim bue

Huddersfield Blenheim grey

LL


Thanks in advance for the input guys. I apologise if this is a bit beneath the standard of discussion for this thread, It seems like the best place to ask for appropriately experienced advice.

There are many things to consider in fabrics if it's your first bespoke suit, especially quality, durability, performance (especially for summer stuff). These 240g or 260g fabrics will not give a good shape to your suit, will wear out very quickly. If you want just a couple of bespoke suit then probably you won't notice but if you order more and try different type of fabrics you will realize the difference. A good fabric is sth that drapes well, give a good smooth shape to your suits, will feel lighter than it actually is (like LL which is 400g but don't feel at that level at all)
If you are building your wardrobe, think well. These 240-260g stuff may represent garbage of the future. There's no such thing as a 4-season business suit. For winter you may want to have some flannels, heavy worsteds, tweed suits, for summer some fresco, linens etc. first think about how you want to see your wardrobe

 

[mactire]

Thanks everyone for the input on trench coat fabrics and construction. It has been most enlightening.

I am also gearing up for my first bespoke suit. I have my heart set on a glen check, though it needs to be conservative enough for work.

For a first suit I think you need to focus on getting the fit right first. Checks are hard to fit due to the pattern matching required. Members here have written posts on getting first bespoke which I can't manage to find but others should be able to point you in the direction of.

 

[WillingToLearn]

Checks are hard to fit due to the pattern matching required.

That is some outstanding advice. Go with a no-pattern cloth for 1st bespoke. Many tailors will insist on that for a first commission and from my own experience, the ones that don't should and may complain to you about a check after they have to make adjustments (again from experience).

 

[Stugotes]

If you are building your wardrobe, think well. These 240-260g stuff may represent garbage of the future. There's no such thing as a 4-season business suit. For winter you may want to have some flannels, heavy worsteds, tweed suits, for summer some fresco, linens etc. first think about how you want to see your wardrobe

Disagree. A worsted suit in a mid-weight can work for all four seasons in most western countries where summers and winters with extreme weather conditions are no longer than a few weeks each. Someone who has to wear a suit five days a week for work will probably not be outside for more than a few minutes when commuting to and from work, while homes, cars, trains, offices are all air conditioned anyway.

Also, I have yet to see tweed, flannel and linen in a conservative work environment.

 

[WillingToLearn]

I wear flannel in a conservative environment all the time.

 

[bamboo]

Apologies if this has already been covered in depth, I searched and came up emptyhanded. I'm thinking about having Kent Wang make a hot-weather navy suit for me (I'm in Texas so that's... most of the year). Therefore, it seems like Fresco or something in that area is the forum favorite. This would be my first MTM suit ever, so I'm all ears for advice.

One narrow question is: Is the Fresco III book notably different from the Fresco II book? It seems like the crowd favorite navy in Fresco II was 520 (is that right?). Is Fresco III 510252 its equivalent? Or is Fresco III a dramatically different look?

Should I also be trying to get my hands on information about Crispaire?

And, lastly, anyone on here have a suit length (I'm 5'10") of hot-weather navy cloth they're looking to move at mate's rates?

Fresco 3's 8-9 oz one (Fresco Lite) is a lot smoother than Fresco 2. 520 is more like a airforce blue not navy at all.