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ovlov

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Hey all.

Has anyone had any experience with having a trench coat made?
Im looking for some suggestions of appropriate mills/books to look for. So far all i have found is the H&S trenchcoat book. I assume that would be ideal but would like some feedback if anyone has used it themselves or suggestions of some other options.

Cheers
 

Concordia

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Tailors tend to think of trenchcoats as manufactured garments, not items to be made by hand. If nothing else, getting the water-resistant seams right is something not many shops do routinely.
 

ovlov

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Tailors tend to think of trenchcoats as manufactured garments, not items to be made by hand. If nothing else, getting the water-resistant seams right is something not many shops do routinely.

Are you saying that it's something they don't/can't do?
I'm getting a suit and coat made by a local tailor I have not tried before. He said he can make a trench coat for me but the only appropriate cloth he has is H&S; though he is happy to use anything I can source myself. Do you think this means he is a bit of a hack?

I jad not considered the waterproofing issue. I assumed that was just a matter of using the right fabric.
 

Concordia

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If he'll make it, then go for it.
 

double00

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you were actually correct, the fabric is 14 micron wool (80%) and cashmere (20%), I was mistaken because I only saw the Cashmere on the selvedge.

iirc, they do other blends as well off of the XmilmilX base... in any case i'm sure i'd agree it's a nice fabric. the straight-up 15mil that i recall was like something between lambswool and cashmere but seemed more like wool in apparent durability. good stuff.
 

Alan Bee

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allen :nest: wouldnt it be better if you just created a new thread about your youtube videos instead of constantly posting them in this thread? thanks

Hi C&A, if the video clips bother you, can you just skip them and all related discussion? Thats what I would do.

I find the level of knowledge and quality of critique here much more sophisticated than on WAYWRN. Thats why I seek (and share) sartorial wisdom here on this thread which is more or less dedicated to bespoke tailoring.

Regards, Alan Bee
 

dfoverdx

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Hey all.

Has anyone had any experience with having a trench coat made?
Im looking for some suggestions of appropriate mills/books to look for. So far all i have found is the H&S trenchcoat book. I assume that would be ideal but would like some feedback if anyone has used it themselves or suggestions of some other options.

Cheers

I do have a bespoke trench coat. I bought cotton from Fox, they applied a waterproof on the cotton. The thing is you have to get at least 5m, which was fine for me.
 

mactire

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Are you saying that it's something they don't/can't do?

I wouldn't say that, it is however more work for a tailor. In order for the garment to be waterproof aside from fabric considerations you need the seams to be french seams or as they're called in the US lapped and felled seams like in the image.


flat_felled.png


All the long seams in your regular garments are normally overlocked, which sews the two edges together and then loops thread over the loose ends to prevent fraying.
 

bamboo

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Hey all.

Has anyone had any experience with having a trench coat made?
Im looking for some suggestions of appropriate mills/books to look for. So far all i have found is the H&S trenchcoat book. I assume that would be ideal but would like some feedback if anyone has used it themselves or suggestions of some other options.

Cheers

Ventile cotton cloth looks suitable for the purpose and can be purchased from the mill.
I saw Japanese cotton of Burbery type but may not be available overseas.
 

bamboo

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Can anyone comment on where to order/find Solaro cotton cloth? The cotton Solaro seems to be more muted or "cooler" (as DWW would say) than the "warmer" (to my eye) Solaro wool - is that correct?

Also, any opinions on the sand (510247) or beige (510223) Fresco for a Spring/Summer suit as a more subdued alternative than the Solaro?

https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/55

I think Solaro is definitely more eye catching than Frescos. Fresco lite (8-9oz in Fresco 3 book) looks nice.
Smith wool solaro looks warmer than cotton or other Solaro in color tone and should be warmer in temperature wise too. I think Cotton solaro are available from Ariston and Caccioppoli.

I like VBC revenge. You may consider other Mohair blend fabric too if you are not too conservative business dress environment.
 

abkain

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I think Solaro is definitely more eye catching than Frescos. Fresco lite (8-9oz in Fresco 3 book) looks nice.
Smith wool solaro looks warmer than cotton or other Solaro in color tone and should be warmer in temperature wise too. I think Cotton solaro are available from Ariston and Caccioppoli.

I like VBC revenge. You may consider other Mohair blend fabric too if you are not too conservative business dress environment.


Thanks Bamboo. I will give a look at Ariston and Caccioppoli. Also, good call on checking into other Mohair blend fabrics. I'll look at those as well.
 

fassbinder

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Hi C&A, if the video clips bother you, can you just skip them and all related discussion? Thats what I would do.

I find the level of knowledge and quality of critique here much more sophisticated than on WAYWRN. Thats why I seek (and share) sartorial wisdom here on this thread which is more or less dedicated to bespoke tailoring.

Regards, Alan Bee

How hard is it for you to understand that this thread is about cloth? There is an Ongoing Bespokes Projects thread which is dedicated to bespoke tailoring. But I would argue that your videos don't belong there either. The idea that one can skip your videos is beside the point. They are just more noise on an already over-polluted and commercialized web site. For many long term members and perhaps some newbs, this was one of the last interesting corners of SF. If there are no posts for a few days or hours on this thread who cares? There are 1447 pages you can reread if you are bored. But now when I receive an alert that there is a new post on this thread, my time is wasted when i discover its another Alan Bee video. Your videos and the discussion surrounding them detract from the topic of cloth. How many more advertisements do we need for your Vblog? Any one who likes it can subscribe to that. Perhaps they can follow you on insta too.

You have already asked if you can wear 16oz cloth in Dubai, really is there anything else we need to know.
 
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Alan Bee

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How hard is it for you to understand that this thread is about cloth? There is an Ongoing Bespokes Projects thread which is dedicated to bespoke tailoring. But I would argue that your videos don't belong there either. The idea that one can skip your videos is beside the point. They are just more noise on an already over-polluted and commercialized web site. For many long term members and perhaps some newbs, this was one of the last interesting corners of SF. If there are no posts for a few days or hours on this thread who cares? There are 1447 pages you can reread if you are bored. But now when I receive an alert that there is a new post on this thread, my time is wasted when i discover its another Alan Bee video. Your videos and the discussion surrounding them detract from the topic cloth. You have already asked if you can wear 16oz cloth in Dubai, really is there anything else we need to know.

Hi Fassbinder,

I've been on this forum just as long as you have and I'm quite familiar with its "unspoken rules". Indeed this forum is about cloth but more broadly about bespoke clothing. I don't suppose you buy cloth to decorate your closet or hang it up as window curtain.

Its unfortunate that you find my videos to be in bad taste or inappropriate for this thread but I wonder who makes the rules about appropriateness and what can or can't be posted on a thread. Certainly, there are others even on this thread who find the videos useful and to that end, have encouraged me to post more videos. Their views may vary but are neither less important, nor carry less weight than yours.

Your high handed approach negates whatever point you're trying to make. I understand your attempt at "policing" the thread but perhaps a bit of decorum on your part could go a long way. Digging up sarcastic remarks about my inquiry regarding 16oz clothing in Dubai might amuse you but its entirely tasteless and contributes less to the discourse than the same videos which you so abhor.

Thank you

Alan Bee
 
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ericgereghty

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Jesus Christ, where's the middle finger emoji when you need it? Cry me a river. Are you really complaining about your life being negatively impacted by a post on a website? We're talking literally about an extra mouse scroll (or three, if someone decides to comment on said videos). Don't like the videos? Don't watch them. REALLY don't like the videos? Ignore Alan. God forbid not every single post deep dives into the merits of a given cloth.

No matter the course of action, please find something legitimate to whine about.
 

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