The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[jrd617]



Still crazy. You're wearing a jacket which is objectively too small in every aspect, so what you're asking is inane. If you want useful suggestions, find a jacket which fits reasonably well, take pics, and ask again. Or, just ask the tailor (whom you say you trust) when you're in the room and in front of the mirror. That person has the advantage of seeing you in three dimensions and in motion.
TL/DR?: You're doing it wrong.

this.

 

[hyt123]

Does that clear anything up and hopefully put an end to the lurk moar noob comments or is what I'm asking still crazy? If it is crazy, I'll just drop it and try and find some other resources that will help educate me.

The only thing this clears up is that you're still not getting it. Fit in a suit begins with the chest and shoulders. That's always the first step. There's no such thing as "let out the chest and let out the shoulders" because if you've got both of those problems in the same jacket then you've sized completely wrong, which in turn throws everything else off. Nothing else matters until you take the correct first step that lays the right foundation for everything else.

When you've shoehorned yourself into a jacket that fits like a sausage casing, there isn't a tailor in the world that can tell for certain (especially off an internet picture) if the ripples in the sleeve are caused by a misrotated head or a shoulder seam on the verge of exploding.

We ARE trying to educate you. You're just not listening.

 

[Maccimus]



The only thing this clears up is that you're still not getting it. Fit in a suit begins with the chest and shoulders. That's always the first step. There's no such thing as "let out the chest and let out the shoulders" because if you've got both of those problems in the same jacket then you've sized completely wrong, which in turn throws everything else off. Nothing else matters until you take the correct first step that lays the right foundation for everything else.

When you've shoehorned yourself into a jacket that fits like a sausage casing, there isn't a tailor in the world that can tell for certain (especially off an internet picture) if the ripples in the sleeve are caused by a misrotated head or a shoulder seam on the verge of exploding.

We ARE trying to educate you. You're just not listening.

I think the very "first step" is the overall balance. It is off now and no one, even the most talented tailor in the world, could help.

 

[aglass]

Not to derail this epic conversation, but can anyone give me pointers on my fit? (from the last page)

 

[burningbright]



The only thing this clears up is that you're still not getting it. Fit in a suit begins with the chest and shoulders. That's always the first step. There's no such thing as "let out the chest and let out the shoulders" because if you've got both of those problems in the same jacket then you've sized completely wrong, which in turn throws everything else off. Nothing else matters until you take the correct first step that lays the right foundation for everything else.

When you've shoehorned yourself into a jacket that fits like a sausage casing, there isn't a tailor in the world that can tell for certain (especially off an internet picture) if the ripples in the sleeve are caused by a misrotated head or a shoulder seam on the verge of exploding.

We ARE trying to educate you. You're just not listening.

Well I'd hardly call comments akin to, "you're crazy" and "lurk moar" as educational. Your comments above about the shoulders and chest have been the most constructive because now I know that when both of those measurements are off that it will throw everything else off. I was trying to compartmentalize the different parts of the jacket without considering how they relate to other parts like the shoulders and chest.

I'm new at this, having been a SW&D guy so I'm trying to learn how it all works and now I've got something to build off of so thanks for giving a good explanation of where I'm going wrong. I'll try getting some more information from the tailor when we meet for the actual fitting.

 

[hyt123]

I think the very "first step" is the overall balance. It is off now and no one, even the most talented tailor in the world, could help.

So you'd be checking out a side view of yourself to ascertain balance first and foremost while ignoring the bowed lapels (which takes up fabric on the front of the jacket, practically guaranteeing a balance skewed to the rear) and the fact that you're about to bust the shoulder and side seams?

Even balance can't be evaluated unless/until you're reasonably within the chest+shoulders ballpark.

 

[jrd617]



Well I'd hardly call comments akin to, "you're crazy" and "lurk moar" as educational. Your comments above about the shoulders and chest have been the most constructive because now I know that when both of those measurements are off that it will throw everything else off. I was trying to compartmentalize the different parts of the jacket without considering how they relate to other parts like the shoulders and chest.
I'm new at this, having been a SW&D guy so I'm trying to learn how it all works and now I've got something to build off of so thanks for giving a good explanation of where I'm going wrong. I'll try getting some more information from the tailor when we meet for the actual fitting.

You're very argumentative. Again, post fitpics of a shrunken jacket that doesn't fit at all isn't a worthwhile exercise. You asked for help, now listen to the advice of others here.

 

[hyt123]

Well I'd hardly call comments akin to, "you're crazy" and "lurk moar" as educational. Your comments above about the shoulders and chest have been the most constructive because now I know that when both of those measurements are off that it will throw everything else off. I was trying to compartmentalize the different parts of the jacket without considering how they relate to other parts like the shoulders and chest.
I'm new at this, having been a SW&D guy so I'm trying to learn how it all works and now I've got something to build off of so thanks for giving a good explanation of where I'm going wrong. I'll try getting some more information from the tailor when we meet for the actual fitting.

I'm not entirely sure what you expect to gain by trying on an off the rack jacket (properly fitting or not) when you say you're having a bespoke suit made. A proper bespoke tailor goes off your measurements, taken directly from your body (by him/herself or a trusted assistant). Chest and shoulder fit, balance, pocket size/position, and sleeve length are all givens and pretty much immutable if you want a jacket that looks good. The rest (lapel style/width, shoulder construction/expression, jacket length, waist suppression, etc.) depends on where your preferences fall on the fashion-forward*<-------->classic continuum and that's the only place where your tailor should need input from you.

If you can't trust the tailor then find one you can. Get the process started and post progress pics here. You'll get far more valuable and constructive feedback than posting a picture of yourself in something several sizes wrong.

*SF leans heavily on the "classic" end of the spectrum so you're not going to find much love for skinny lapels and short jackets around here.

 

[Despos]

burningbright, I comprehend what you are asking but your approach to the subject is incorrect. You can't get there from here.

 

[LJubel328]



Not sure you want to take in the DB more than you have. The back lays against your back well enough and the shoulders are a touch wide but will look bigger if you reduce the body more.
The tan jacket is too big and has a balance problem. short back. Wouldn't fool with it. The generic styling/cut doesn't do anything for you and the size of the patch pockets look out of proportion.

Thank you Despos

 

[paradoxical3]

Just got this in the mail, going to take it to my tailor to have him alter it. What should I ask him to do? I'm aware the sleeves need to be shortened and there is a collar gap, but what else? Some waist suppression maybe?

The wrinkling of the arms is terrible right now because of how it was shipped to me (jammed in a USPS envelope).







Much appreciated.

 

[Keough1206]

It's hard to tell with your arms like that.

 

[williamh]

I am not going to post my own opinion because I've noticed that people tend to agree with the owner of the suit and I do not want produce some kind of bias. I will say though, that I did not iron or steam it and I was impressed that it came straight out of the box relatively wrinkle free and that I don't think that my shirt sleeves are more excessively long than the jacket sleeves are short.

Suggestions/criticism would be much appreciated.

 

[williamh]

This is my first suit - MTM. I am not going to post my own opinion because I've noticed that people tend to agree with the owner of the suit and I do not want produce some kind of bias.

Criticism/suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

[sugarbutch]

Whose arms and legs were they measuring?