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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    Cambridge, England
    
    I can imagine this only being an option if you keep them cuffed, so the seam is concealed, otherwise it's gonna look very weird.
     
  2. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    if the legs are worn straight down there is a seam around the bottom. usually neatly done.
    but if the legs are cuffed up then the seam allowance that is inside shows outside.

    this whole thing about the chain stitch is a great money maker for some people.
    if i were lucky enough to find an old chain stitch machine i would be making out like crazy.
    or, and if i were not retired, i too would be cutting off and sewing on bottoms..
     
  3. Liam O

    Liam O Senior member

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    Princeton, NJ
    bespoke jacket (not worried about the pants ATM).
    Fit is pretty god awful, having the tailor alter it again next tuesday. chest and waist need taken in, cuffs need hemmed about 3/8", and I feel like the sleeves need to be narrowed a bit and the armholes need to be pulled up a little bit because the openings are about a third the height of the jacket.

    any other feedback would be appreciated.

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  4. ebayhtl

    ebayhtl Senior member

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    Location:
    Hong Kong
    Hi guys,

    I was hoping you can comment on the fit of this suit jacket and how much I should/need to do with it. I generally like fairly slim fit suits.

    It's a YSL suit that I picked up for half price at Mr Porter's recent sale (http://www.mrporter.com/product/174959) - great suit (36R), great material and full-canvassed construction, so I want to keep it, but I feel like:

    1) Arms/shoulders are too baggy
    2) Bit too long
    3) Shoulders may be too wide

    Pants fit fantastic so no worries there. Any feedback would be appreciated.

    If the above can be remedied pretty easily, I'll get a good tailor in HKG to fix it, otherwise I'll refund it. Thanks for your help in advance, and apologies for the photos (only have a phone camera at the moment).

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  5. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    Not if the seam is further from the end of the leg than the cuff is wide. Though that's probably not how they actually do it.
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2012
  6. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    you are right there. but the seam is usually done very close to the bottom.
    that is unless the customer asks for it to be done otherwise.
    if the permanent cuff is done, and one wants to change to a regular
    bottom then the legs length will be too short.

    if being authentic is so important, then the job should be done right.
    if the jean has a seam there it is no longer authentic.

    in many large cities there are shops that have a chain stitch machine.
    if one is not available there are some on the net that will do it by mail.
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2012
  7. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    hi liam

    i hope that its a made to measure and not really bespoke.
    your right its pretty bad. there is nothing that can be done to raise the armholes.
    there is so much that needs to be done that it will never be right.
    but your tailor may differ, and might try.

    an after thought. are you sure that its the one you ordered?
    do you think its someone else coat.
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2012
  8. yywwyy

    yywwyy Senior member

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    NY
    Hello!

    This suit was a recent MtM attempt. Could you please help me with some detailed feedback? I'm noticing a lot of problems (especially balances) but I can't explain what they are. I'd appreciate comments on the needed fixes for the next suit.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


    My own questions:
    2. Looking from the back, I don't like how the sleeves bulge outwards. This is apparent in many of my off-the-rack suits. How can this be fixed?
    5. Would you advise a slightly lower buttoning point? (1~1.5cm)
    6. Back rolls- how to fix?
    7. Will decreasing the back rise make trousers fit better?

    Huge, huge thanks in advance!
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2012
  9. Mikael

    Mikael Well-Known Member

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    Tried to take better pictures of the charcoal suit in Napoli fit, which seemed the best fit in my opinion. Immediate question: is the suit too small for me? If not, what could be done to improve the fit (apart from shortening the pants which are obviously too long)?
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  10. SackSuitLover

    SackSuitLover Well-Known Member

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    Jul 18, 2012
    Location:
    Italy
    Hi all.
    I'm italian, so sorry for my english.
    This is a very interesting forum. But i think that the true classics and permanent fashion (and not momentary fashion) are a little subdued.
    Too much short jackets, narrow trousers, jackets with the botton to use too much above the natural waist!! Short sleeves and so on and so on....
    Permanent fashion in my opinion is about comfort, elegance. A suit, a jacket and trousers must dress not force someone' body.
    In the pics above of LIAM O i see a beautiful green color. I see a right jacket in the overall lenght, good sleevesm and the second button a little above the natural waist.
    Voto: discreet/good
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2012
  11. SackSuitLover

    SackSuitLover Well-Known Member

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    For MIKAEL

    Yes i think that the suit is a little too small for you. In the future try a size bigger. In fact if you sit at a desk probably you'll not be in comfort.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2012
  12. Liam O

    Liam O Senior member

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    Nope, not MTM, bespoke. Perhaps you understand my frustration, that was the last of the cloth I'd purchased too, I'd been told 2.5yds would be enough for my jacket so I bought five for two. Perhaps it would have been had he made it in my size, but I can't even get someone else to re-make it now.
     
  13. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    The lapels on my NSM are just a little bit user 4" so its pretty much just 4", you go for 4.5 then thats going into TF territory. Also with NSM its a very high gorge almost near the top of your shoulder, so a little bit higher than the ones you posted.
     
  14. SackSuitLover

    SackSuitLover Well-Known Member

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    Italy
    FOR ALLYOUZOMBIES

    You are tall 6.1, so you can't wear a regular size. If you see Brooks brothers size chart or Jos Bank size chart or others, you will see that you must wear tall size, not extra tall, not regular. If your shoulders are narrow you will have more room and more comfort.
    But buy a regular suit as one above is a "crime".
    Hi
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2012
  15. SackSuitLover

    SackSuitLover Well-Known Member

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    Quote:You are tall 6.1, so you can't wear a regular size. If you see Brooks brothers size chart or Jos Bank size chart or others, you will see that you must wear tall size, not extra tall, not regular. If your shoulders are narrow you will have more room and more comfort. But buy a regular suit as one above is a "crime". Hi
     
  16. yywwyy

    yywwyy Senior member

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    NY
    Still would like feedback! :)
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2012
  17. iluvmysh

    iluvmysh New Member

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    Jan 25, 2012
    Hi all,

    I just purchased my first MTM suit. Can you please let me know what needs to be altered?
    This suit will be for a wedding and work.
    My initial thought is that the suit is small. The sleeves are short, my shoulders are a little tight, the pants are tight in the hamstrings, but the butt is saggy. How does one remedy the saggy butt/tight quads?
    Any feedback would be GREATLY appreciated! I apologize in advance for the poor quality pictures.

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    Last edited: Jul 22, 2012
  18. espantalho

    espantalho New Member

    Messages:
    3
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    Feb 11, 2012
    Hi all,

    I just got this suit RTW and I am taking it to the tailor next week to make the adjustments. Any criticism or advice you can give me would be really helpful. I am sorry about the shirt cuffs, but I only had one with short sleeves when I took the pictures. Thank you in advance for your help.


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    A couple shots from a closer distance
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    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2012
  19. espantalho

    espantalho New Member

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    3
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    Feb 11, 2012
    .
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2012
  20. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ok yy
    who measured you/? wish you had buttoned the shirt collar.
    usually the lapel style on m2m are their default style. unless you give them an actual paper pattern.
    for the width try a four inch width see how you like it.
    you have a left low shoulder and a left high hip. see how the rt vent hangs straight and the left vent gaps.
    those rolls at the back tell us that the top of the back needs to be shortened.
    that picture shows us that you cant fly.
    but it does show that the chest circumference is large. most of which is at the sides.
    also the armholes are too deep.
    the blade area is too large. the left is very much so, cant see the right its in a shadow.
    cant see the trouser fit its all a blur. if you shorten the rise in back the bottoms will kick out
    backwards more than do now. see the bottoms at the heel. .

    look at the tutorials to help you understand.

    that pesky roll below the collar.
    do i have a low shoulder.
    how to cut a low shoulder.
    got a high hip.
     
    1 person likes this.

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