The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Make the sleeves longer but make the cuff circumference smaller too. Ask if they have an option for low shoulders, your right shoulder is lower and causes the wrinkles under your right arm.
     


  2. navil

    navil Member

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    a tailor and Despos, thank you both for taking the time to reply to my query. I hadn't noticed the low shoulder in the photos but I can now see it. I will inform the company and see if they can compensate for it.

    I actually had already sent them all of the photos. Here is their reply:

    You can let out the yoke about 1" more, then add a little more to your sleeves.
    You'll need to take in the waist and hips too.


    We hope these help.


    What do you both think of this advice?
     


  3. LJubel328

    LJubel328 Senior member

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    Here are some better pictures of the double breasted sport coat I posted a while back. I got this one tailored at Wilshire Tailors in LA, mentioned on here for doing great jobs, but for me it still seems full in the body (as well as another SC I got tailored there).

    If a tailor could comment on these I would appreciate it.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Second SC is a 38R Isaia I got awhile back. Should I size down?
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Thank you! :D
     


  4. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    are they telling you about future orders,or altering this one?
     


  5. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not sure you want to take in the DB more than you have. The back lays against your back well enough and the shoulders are a touch wide but will look bigger if you reduce the body more.

    The tan jacket is too big and has a balance problem. short back. Wouldn't fool with it. The generic styling/cut doesn't do anything for you and the size of the patch pockets look out of proportion.
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2012


  6. burningbright

    burningbright Senior member

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    Can you guys give me a quick eyeing up on this try-on and tell me what you would do? I'm right in between a 42 and a 44 so I've got a 42R try-on right now that is slim-cut. I'm having a suit made for me but want to learn what needs correcting for my own educational experience.

    I jacked the exposure way up as the lighting was horrible and wanted to see if it would help pick up the creases and lines on the black fabric. Sorry the phone pics are so horrible. :fu:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Aside from the jacket obviously being too small, here are my own amateur observations from top to bottom of jacket:

    1. Shoulders need to be let out.
    2. Shoulders need to be lowered due to diagonal creasing around the rear armpits.
    3. Upper back or blades needs to be let out.
    4. Sleevehead needs rotating due to creasing along back of arms? (Not sure about what's causing this; arm tilting backwards?)
    5. Chest needs to be let out.
    6. Can't tell if the lapel would need shortening or if that's just the chest needing to be let out.
    7. Either the rear waist or the front (I'm thinking rear waist) will need to be let out.
    8. Not sure what needs to happen with the seat and skirt (other than one or the other needs letting out)
    9. Jacket will need to be lengthened (Not sure how much).
    10. Sleeves obviously need lengthening.

    So, what have I missed or gotten wrong?
     


  7. hyt123

    hyt123 Senior member

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    Put on a jacket that actually fits, then post/ask again. It's useless and a waste of time to critique a fit where everything that is possibly wrong, is wrong.
     


  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Your request doesn't make much sense. Beyond what you had said, your posture is erect and the balance is off, jacket is too short. But why post a picture of a jacket that is the wrong size??? The issues you would learn will be different on a jacket that is your size than one the is 2 sizes too small.
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2012


  9. navil

    navil Member

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    This is advice for future orders. The shirt I am pictured in is meant as a trial shirt that is used to dial in measurements for future purchases.
     


  10. burningbright

    burningbright Senior member

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    I'll try and go back later this afternoon and try on the 44, which was too large and snap some photos of that.

    As I said about the smaller 42, it was just a try-on to see what the problems were when I had a smaller jacket on. I'm more interested in the educational process of seeing what the problem is when you see creases in certain parts of the jacket, or balance issues as Chris mentioned with the front and back of a jacket (or the fact that I had an erect posture; which I didn't know).

    I obviously wouldn't choose that 42; I just want to test my assessment skills when I try on a jacket that is either too big or too small so I know what to look for in each part of the jacket. Does that make sense? :embar:

    I'll post some pics of the too-large 44, if that will help get more feedback.
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2012


  11. Jmay419

    Jmay419 New Member

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    It won't specifically say that it is done by Isaia. I have three of these suits due to family that work within Saks. These suits do in fact come from Isaia; they come in great fabrics but lower end Isaia construction.
     


  12. aglass

    aglass Well-Known Member

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    So, first time posting a fit on this site! Feel free to tear it to shreds. I apologize in advance for the poor iPhone pictures, but my camera just died. I just had this altered at a tailor's and I wanted to get some better eyes than mine on it. I'm planning on wearing it to a wedding:

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    The suit is a Brooks Brothers 41L Fitzgerald (thank you, Steve Smith!) - I'm typically a 40L, but the Fitz' shoulders are pretty small (this is 17.75 - I have 18' shoulders) so I sized up. To my untuned eye, it looks pretty good... FIRE AWAY!!!

    (Thanks!)
     


  13. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    You've been here 2 years and you think this is all possible? Lurk moar

    Jacket doesn't fit anywhere
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2012


  14. burningbright

    burningbright Senior member

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    I don't think I've made myself clear so I'll try again because it was a very busy day for me while I posted the photos and I'm wondering if, due to said busyness, that the one critical detail I left out will put this all into context.

    I am about to purchase another bespoke suit. The try-on in the photo was just to see if I would fall between a 42 and a 44 since the last suit was purchased last year and I'm in the process of dropping some weight. I haven't purchased the 42 try-on in the photo; I don't want the 42 try-on in the photo because I know it doesn't fit.

    I am simply looking from a hypothetical standpoint of what changes would need to be made to a 42 jacket for me in this instance. In the photos.

    The tailor who will be making my suit (a 3-piece Loro Piana) knows what they're doing, but I don't and so I'm simply asking for the feedback of the respected tailors on StyleForum as to what they are seeing when they look at the photos for my own personal education and gratification.

    For example, the rumples on the backs of the sleeves. Will rotating the sleeveheads correct the problem? The diagonal creases running towards the rear arm pits in the back photo: what's causing those? And so on and so forth. I just want to learn something and hopefully that desire doesn't make me daft. I've purchased from this tailor in the past and I know what kind of work they do and trust them, I just simply want to learn for myself and maybe any feedback given will help some of the other guys posting on here about what they are seeing in the mirror when they put a suit on that they have doubts about.

    Does that clear anything up and hopefully put an end to the lurk moar noob comments or is what I'm asking still crazy? If it is crazy, I'll just drop it and try and find some other resources that will help educate me.
     


  15. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Still crazy. You're wearing a jacket which is objectively too small in every aspect, so what you're asking is inane. If you want useful suggestions, find a jacket which fits reasonably well, take pics, and ask again. Or, just ask the tailor (whom you say you trust) when you're in the room and in front of the mirror. That person has the advantage of seeing you in three dimensions and in motion.

    TL/DR?: You're doing it wrong.
     


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