1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    15,840
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2010
    Location:
    People's Republic of San Francisco
    

    Looks like the lapels are bowing slightly; there's too much shoulder extension; and the side vents are gaping wide open, so much so that you can even see from the side. I think the tailors will agree that a ready-to-wear garment with these flaws isn't worth the effort. As for the length, we can only really judge the proportions from a full-length shot. If you have another couple feet of leg out of frame, probably not too long. If your feet are just out of the frame, then it's too long.

    Buy something which fits better as a starting point.
     
  2. paradoxical3

    paradoxical3 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    64
    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2011
    Thanks for the critique! You're right about the lapels and the side vents, but I'm surprised to hear about the shoulder extension - one of the things I liked about the jacket was how well it fit my shoulders; I thought they filled them out completely. The lapels will be a problem on every RTW jacket for me (I have a larger chest), and I don't have the cash to go strictly MTM so I just deal with it.

    Is there a cost effective fix for the side vents? What causes this? I've never seen a jacket that did this to me.

    I don't NEED the jacket as I have a MTM navy sport coat on the way, but for $240 it can't hurt to have a spare.
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2012
  3. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    

    its too long to be shortened. return it.
     
  4. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    It is difficult to get a man to understand something, when his salary depends on his not understanding it.
    Upton Sinclair

    The plight of the department store tailor.

    thanks sugarbutch.
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  5. aspasp

    aspasp Senior member

    Messages:
    465
    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2011
    Should I just get my raw denim altered in the inseam by Nordstrom for free or get it chain stitched by a Union Special for $25?
     
  6. Jam74

    Jam74 Member

    Messages:
    7
    Joined:
    May 26, 2012
    I have a pair of Straight leg slacks that fit fine , except from about the calf down its too wide. Is it possible to tailor only half a pant leg?
     
  7. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

    Messages:
    5,059
    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2006
    Location:
    Cambridge, England
    

    Of course, it's easy to taper trousers so they're narrower below the knee.
     
  8. Jam74

    Jam74 Member

    Messages:
    7
    Joined:
    May 26, 2012
    Thank you!
     
  9. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    

    be a sport and open the wallet.
     
  10. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    

    certainly it can be done but, it will look as though it was done that way.
    is this because you have heavy calfs?
     
  11. aspasp

    aspasp Senior member

    Messages:
    465
    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2011
    Are there clear advantages of getting it chain stitched? I heard it's not that noticeable
     
  12. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    Repsak

    self photos are not good at best .the only thing i can see is that the sleeves need shortening.
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2012
  13. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    15,840
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2010
    Location:
    People's Republic of San Francisco
    If you want the final product to look like jeans, then get the chain stitch. If you don't care about maintaining that look, don't bother. There are also some alterations tailors who cut off the original, chain-stitched hem and then reattach it to the shortened jeans. Some folks swear by this, but I've not knowingly seen the results of this approach.
     
  14. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    

    the only thing i can see is in the side view.
    see the humping on the coats back just below the collar.
    that means the back needs to be shortened at the top.
     
  15. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    

    you have a left low shoulder. watch that collar on the left side. it may need to come in closer to your neck.
    the back of the waist and seat look too tight. that all i can see in your pictures.
     
  16. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    
    button the shirt collar.
    you do have aright low shoulder. the waist and seat are too tight in back.
    letting these out will allow the jackets back to drop down and not look so short.
    there is some excess width across the upper back that could be taken in.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. Jam74

    Jam74 Member

    Messages:
    7
    Joined:
    May 26, 2012
    No, I have skinny calfs. They are "tailored straight legs" so the seat and thighs are fine, but the bottom get wide.
     
  18. thomaspaine

    thomaspaine Senior member

    Messages:
    170
    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2012
    Location:
    New York City
    Picked up this Black Fleece suit and blazer. Had the sleeves shortened on the jackets, and pants hemmed and tapered. I'm realizing now that the jackets are undarted and a little boxy. I like a very slim fit, so I was wondering if it's possible and/or worth it to add front darts? Should I get the waist suppressed or leave it as is? Thanks!

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  19. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    
    i asked about the calf because you mentioned the calf as some sort of limitation.

    if the legs come down straight to the calf then come in at the bottom its going to look strange.
    the bottom will come in narrow then balloon out at the calf.
    properly the bottom can come in as you wish. but from that point going up the leg should
    gradually taper outward to where it blends in with the old lines. be it at the calf or above that point.
    consult with your tailor on this.
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2012
  20. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    

    yea SB i have seen that.
    they cut off the bottom hem and sew it back on, without opening
    the chain stitched hem.
    it looks to me like a "mickey mouse" operation.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by