The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Millerp]



This is my 3rd MTM shirt with the same company, and although I'm getting most measurements pretty well dialed in, my dropped shoulder is still causing some problems.
What, specifically, do I need to request on my next order to smooth out the chest (especially near the left armpit) in the first and second photos, and also to eliminate that big wrinkle across the right shoulder blade in the third photo?

Looks like each of your shoulders has a different slope and the length of the right half of the yoke should not be the same as
the length of the left half of the yoke. I'm not sure MTM can accommodate such differences. If this is online MTM and
you submit your own measurements, the best thing you can do is send these pictures to the maker and see if they can
do anything.

If this was bespoke, the shirt would be pinned and a specific cut would be made for you with two different shoulder constructions based on your
different shoulders, but that's difficult to achieve with MTM.

 

[mack11211]



It is for a slip. There was a discussion with pictures of this on LL a few years back. Wouldn't know the topic to search. It is considered a formal accent, not sure what purpose it serves. Some English shops carry these.

Thank you for your reply. How interesting. I found some pictures and further description on this site from the man behind Gentlemen's Gazette.

This also explains something else in some Rio de Janiero bespoke items made around 1950 that I have in my collection: A SB peak lapel coat that came with a SB lapelless vest, both in blue flannel. The vest has white piping around the V area. Now I see this was in suggestion of a slip.

 

[Phobos]

Hi Gentlemen, just received my first MTM Suit and custom shirt from Black Lapel. It's also the first suit I have owned so I am not really sure how to tell if anything needs to be fixed on it. Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[Semi Fly]

Thank you for the feedback!

 

[Betelgeuse]

First time posting in this section, but I really need help with this. When I bought my suits I was a 40. I like exercising so my back get a little bit thicker. He says that he can lengthen the back 3/8 of and inch from each side. This is because one of the suits fits well on the shoulders and I don't know why, but from the center of the back to the shoulder it is 3/8 of an inch bigger than the others, although it is the same model/cut of the other suits.

So is it safe to do this alteration?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Despos]



First time posting in this section, but I really need help with this. When I bought my suits I was a 40. I like exercising so my back get a little bit thicker. He says that he can lengthen  the back 3/8 of and inch from each side. This is because one of the suits fits well on the shoulders and I don't know why, but from the center of the back to the shoulder it is 3/8 of an inch bigger than the others, although it is the same model/cut of the other suits. 

So is it safe to do this alteration?

Thanks in advance. 

Yes and no. Your description is a little unclear. The shoulder width across the top part of the shoulders is the point to point measurement. If you want the jacket to be wider at the top of the shoulder you can only let out the center back seam from the collar to the waist. There is no outlet at the shoulder pint where the sleeves are attached unless it is custom made and the tailor left outlets. I am not sure if you need 3/8" on each side of the center back seam or 3/8" total across the whole back. If you let out either amount on the center seam it creates a couple problems. The collar becomes too small for the neck yoke. The center back seam becomes very curved and will lay differently across your blades. May be good, may be bad. You will see a very small, if any, difference from the front view.

If the jacket is tight across the back, first let it out at the under arm of the side body and see how much better the jacket feels. If you need more, try letting out the center back seam.

 

[Betelgeuse]

Yes and no. Your description is a little unclear. The shoulder width across the top part of the shoulders is the point to point measurement. If you want the jacket to be wider at the top of the shoulder you can only let out the center back seam from the collar to the waist. There is no outlet at the shoulder pint where the sleeves are attached unless it is custom made and the tailor left outlets. I am not sure if you need 3/8" on each side of the center back seam or 3/8" total across the whole back. If you let out either amount on the center seam it creates a couple problems. The collar becomes too small for the neck yoke. The center back seam becomes very curved and will lay differently across your blades. May be good, may be bad. You will see a very small, if any, difference from the front view.
If the jacket is tight across the back, first let it out at the under arm of the side body and see how much better the jacket feels. If you need more, try letting out the center back seam.

Thanks, it's kinda hard to explain cause I describe it, in spanish, with a lot of "slang" so some terms are quite difficult to translate. What he told is that I need 3/8" on each side of the center back, in order to get a bit more room for the shoulders. Let me show you this pic:




Thanks a lot for you response!

 

[Despos]

Picture is too dark to see how the back fits

 

[Betelgeuse]

Picture is too dark to see how the back fits

Sorry about that. He had already altered the back, I have wide shoulders and a small waist. Problem is the shoulders, he claims that by doing that alteration, it will no fit perfectly, cause it's no that much he can make it bigger, but it will allow for some more room for the shoulders. I will try to get better pic.

 

[sqsz]

So I was really excited to find out that suitsupply sold size 35's - I have really narrow shoulders and have not found a good suit OTR that fits me in the shoulders except for H&M. This is SS's slimmest cut in their smaller size, and it's either this or nothing for me so I'm biased, but I'd like a neutral opinion. How does it look? And should i keep it?


My thoughts/notes:

I'd shorten it by about 1" (I'm 5'7") but I'm afraid it would throw off the balance with the pockets. Sleeves are long too.

Lapels are a bit wide but i've always preferred peak so i could probably get used to it.

also i just realized this, but the shirt I wore under this jacket had its sleeves folded up which explains why there's something weird going on in the middle of both sleeves...

 

[yeeth]

(nevermind, ignore this post)

 

[jpc9]



Hey guys,

So I have extremely narrow shoulders and the only maker that fits me is probably H&M since they have size 34, and i was really happy when i found out that SuitSupply had size 35's.
This is one of their jackets in their slimmest fit (washington) and smallest size so it's either this or H&M/MTM for me, and i'm biased cos i really want this to work and thus I need some objective advice.

My thoughts:
Lapels are a little wide but that i can live with, i personally prefer peak anyway.
Sleeve slightly long, i'd shorten the jacket by 1" but i'm worried the pockets will look off-balance.

also there's something funky going on with the sleeve in the middle cos i forgot to roll down my sleeves lol

Looks fine in the length, I wouldn't shorten it.

 

[charliebrown2]

Just received Indochino suit (blue sharkskin) and shirt and would like some feedback. I went to one of their traveling tailor events and left the measurements up to them.

The Shirt:

Body fits nicely, but the shoulders seem to lack some mobility. I don't know if it's the armholes that are too high or the shoulders are too narrow, but when I move it does feel like I'm stretching the shirt a bit. Also, are the sleeves too wide? more specially around the elbow and forearm area.

The Suit: I asked for lower button stance, but it appears that request was ignored...probably not a big deal.









My concerns on the suit:
-The collar appears too high and doesn't show much shirt collar. How can this be fixed?
-From the front, is the waist too tight? It's definitely pretty close to the body and you can see slight wrinkle at the top button
-From the back, does the yolk and waist look too tight? There are slight wrinkles there.
-Anything else?

Pants: Any comments? The pictures make it look like the pants ride **********, but it really didn't feel that way with them on.

I would also like to know if your observations would require a remake or a simple trip to the tailor.

Overall, this did come out better than I expected given its price point.

Thanks, SF.

 

[JimmyHoffa]

Looks pretty darn good to me, Charlie!

 

[yeeth]



Looks fine in the length, I wouldn't shorten it.

I'm not sure why it doesn't show in this picture but it does look a little long when i looked at it in the mirror...

anyway, i guess the more important question is - does it look too big? there are wrinkles at the side (pic below again) - i interpret that as the suit being slightly too long and slightly snug around the waist (i just wore a shirt over my tshirt while taking this photo)?