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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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    Don't get the 36S. Jacket length looks right on, and the sleeves are almost right as-is. An inch shorter would be too short.
     
  2. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    The top of the vest looks off as much as the bottom. The shoulder is too narrow. Would make the shoulder width a good inch or more wider. Would look less like a men's tank top.
    On the next one place the bottom button of the vest on the waist band seam and extend the points from that point.

    By definition a waistcoat is cut longer like this, vests are shorter.
     
  3. aravenel

    aravenel Well-Known Member

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    Well said, this is exactly what I was trying to say.
     
  4. AdamWill

    AdamWill Well-Known Member

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    That's interesting, Despos - I've never seen that distinction suggested before. I've always simply heard the same thing referred to as a 'vest' by Americans and a 'waistcoat' by the British. To a British person, a 'vest' is an undershirt, and the only North American use of 'waistcoat' I've ever heard of is the early-20th century 'weskit'. Is this something you'd suggest is 'common' usage or just some kind of tailor-slang? :)
     
  5. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    The distinction was related to me from a new client who had been going to Huntsman. They had made both waistcoats and vests for him and the length of the fronts and points was the biggest difference.

    Don't know about the other jargon you mentioned
     
  6. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    Few years ago I had a problem with the shoulder "breaking" on a client. A couple small bumps on the shoulder line. Remade the shoulder twice adjusting the usual things but it didn't improve. At that point you step back and look at the whole jacket. The client had a larger left shoulder blade than the right and the jacket seemed tight over the blade. Let out the underarm at the blade on the left side and the shoulder bumps went away. Cause and effect vary and the different elements of a garment relate and effect each other.
     
  7. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    They didn't do well adjusting for your low right shoulder and that is causing the wrinkles on the right side of the body. Moving the button will help some. Wish the buttoning point was lower and those are the thinnest shawls I have ever seen.
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2013
  8. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Well-Known Member

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    Did you specifically request for the placement of the buttons as such? Looks off.

    And Despos is right on the shoulders.

    *Are you Sam, who plays polo at the Royal Berkshire Polo Club?
     
  9. Blackhood

    Blackhood Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for that, really appreciated.

    Do you think it is fair to say that the more "boxy" (in terms of width to height ratio, not waist shape) shape of a DB requires the reinforcement of the vertical element of peaks?
     
  10. katabatic

    katabatic Well-Known Member

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    Yes, the shawl is actually significantly narrower than I asked for (it's only 5cm at its widest), and looks completely out of balance with my shoulders. Like something from Zara or H&M to my eyes.
     
  11. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

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    I'll upload them to my personal album so not to clog up the forum. Be patient as taking pics of what I'm working on while I'm working on it and then posting with description is actually very time consuming. If you're doing this stuff by yourself, are you using a regular sewing machine? The machine I have is old and has a drop feed option which is how I actually reattach the buttons on a jacket sleeve.
    The back length...
    It will do no good to shorten from the bottom because the back balance itself is actually 'falling down' your back. That is to say the excess cloth is collapsing. It has to do with the way your natural posture is vs how the jacket is cut to hang. The natural back balance of the jacket is simply too long for your back. It has everything to do with the term "balance" which is something controlled at the shoulder seam/neckpoint. If you remove it from the bottom, it will still collapse but the jacket will just be shorter because there is no actual change at the balance. Shortening from the top involves ripping the undercollar away from the neckhole, ripping the shoulder seam out and moving the shoulder line on the back part only. This is typical for squaring shoulders. There's a tutorial on here in the second tailors' thread.
    In your case, and it would help to have better pics, it looks like the whole back section is just too long...something related to your posture.
    If this is the case and it's that extreme, you rip the shoulder seam out all the way to the armscye and rip the whole back part all the way down the back of the scye and the side seams. Then you measure down from the top of the shoulder to create a new shoulder line and essentially shift the whole back section upwards cutting away the excess at the top. Definitely not something you want to try yourself.
     
  12. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

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    I'm afraid I don't understand this question exactly, but I think you might be referring to the shape of the lapels which is dictated by how highthe crossover point is or by how many buttons are on the front...?
     
  13. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

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    you usually see just over an inch from bottom of cuff to first button.
     
  14. gotmoo

    gotmoo Member

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    Hi tailors, I previously posted my MTM suit and received great suggestions from many of you:

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/265924/...-and-alteration-suggestions/2415#post_6028951

    I just went back for my refitting today and a new issue arose. I wanted the shoulders to be taken in about 0.5 inches on each side because they were a tad too wide. I'm not exactly sure what the tailor did, but although the shoulder line on the external surface of the suit is taken in and is at the correct position, the actual arm hole (thicker material) on the inside is exactly the same spot. I'm not sure what the exact terminology is, but now there is an extra bump on the lateral side of the shoulder hole. Unfortunately I didn't take a picture...but basically what I feel is that the shoulder line moved, but the actual armhole is exactly at the same position, so now there's an extra long bump on the outside of the shoulders...it's very obvious visually, and I'm worried about whether or not it can be salvaged...

    I'm sure I'm not describing this in the most correct way, but does this mean the shoulder wasn't properly taken in and the tailor only worked on the outside layer and not all layers of the full-canvassed suit? (? didn't bother taking in all the layers underneath the superficial layer?...)

    Any input from you guys would be greatly appreciated, thanks so much again!
     
  15. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

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    Would be helpful you'd have taken pics without the jacket and with shoes on...
    However, it could be a number of things. Is the waist too loose? If so, it could be falling down in the back. If the seat is too baggy, that will compound the problem. The stride doesn't look too full so it's probably the aforementioned issues. That, and the back rise may be too high causing a collapse in material from the waist down. I went online and went thru the ordering process for indochino just to see how they account for your posture and there is nothing in the process to determine what your seat looks like. That explains why you see all their pants having problems in this area.
    It is fixable. A tailor will just figure out what's going on with the pants from the waist to the crotch. Once he knows what to fix there he can deal with the length if it's an issue.
     
  16. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

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    It's way too difficult to try to break this down without a picture.
     
  17. gotmoo

    gotmoo Member

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    Yeah....especially when I can't use the proper terminology, I didn't have my phone with me so couldn't take a proper picture. I drew the following diagram to illustrate, the height of the bump is exaggerated a little bit, but honestly on both sides you can see a bump like that...basically the shoulder line is shifted a little more medially, and the bump on the lateral side as shown is prominent and obvious.




    [​IMG]
     
  18. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

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    If the jacket shoulder was originally a "natural" shoulder, then the way it's done is by pressing part of the seam allowance in the direction of the jacket body or towards the collar. This sortof flattens out the very top of the shoulder while the front and back of the shoulder still have the ridge/roll. You see this alot in RTW shoulders.
    What your picture is showing is more of a "roped" shoulder. When the sleeve was re-set to the armscye, the seam allowance was pressed towards the sleevehead all around. This causes the roping effect. a total opposite of this is what they call "spalla camicia" or shirt shoulder, where the seam allowance is pressed towards the collar completely much like a dress shirt is.
    jefferyd expanded upon this quite a bit in his blog:
    http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/search/label/shoulders
     
  19. RDiaz

    RDiaz Well-Known Member

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    Perfect! Yeah, it looked fine to me, but had to ask [​IMG]
     
  20. gotmoo

    gotmoo Member

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    Is it possible to salvage this alteration where the roped part is much more prominent than prior to adjusting the shoulder?
     

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