The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. md2010

    md2010 Senior member

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    The jacket fits well. But looks too tight around the waist from the back. I would let it out a bit.
     


  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    From the back view you can see how large the blades and back are from the waist up to the shoulder. Shoulders look a little wide from the front view. the sleeves have no line or shape.

    Your right hip is higher than the left on the trouser view.
     


  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If the side body was 3/4" wider on each side at the waist and chest you would have a nice fitting suit. You might want a half inch more length on the jacket. Hard to to tell from the picture. Ubiquitous sleeve issues.
     


  4. Mariuslt

    Mariuslt Member

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    So having it tailored is preferable to having it exchanged (free of charge) for a bigger size then? Stepping up a size would add 4 cm to the waist/chest and 0.9/1cm to the lenght of the arms/back. If the shoulders are ok (more ok than one size up, that is) then I think I'll have it tailored.
     


  5. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Try sizing up first, I doubt there is enough outlet to alter this properly
     


  6. mack11211

    mack11211 Senior member

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    Dear Folks:

    Not meaning to bomb the thread but I have a question not about fit, but about function.

    The pic below is the inside of a vest, part of a 3pc suit made by Gemgani-Balletta of 37 W 57th St. in 1969. I think Balletta was Fred Balletta, head of the Custom Tailors Guild in the 50s.

    The suit has many unusual details: lambs-ear lapels, turnback cuffs, and a double breasted peak-lapel vest with elasticated inner tabs that button on to the trousers. The client was clearly a tightly-ordered guy.

    There is also a trio of small clear buttons on the inside of the vest, on each side, with two at the chest and the third at the neck, as pictured. My question is: what would they button on to? Since they are on the inside of the vest, they seem to have no relation to the coat, but have you ever seen a shirt front that would accommodate such fastenings?

    Any input appreciated.

    [​IMG]

    UPDATE: the complete ebay listing, with every detail pictured, is now here.
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2012


  7. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

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    They may be for a slip vest. Not sure of the proper terminology, but a strip of fabric, usually white or cream that buttoned into the vest that extends slightly beyond the vest edge.
     


  8. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Question for the tailors. This jacket is clearly on the long side. Do you think I can cut 1 inch off the length without messing up the jacket's balance and appearance?

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     


  9. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It is for a slip. There was a discussion with pictures of this on LL a few years back. Wouldn't know the topic to search. It is considered a formal accent, not sure what purpose it serves. Some English shops carry these.
     


  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Shortening will be fine in how the length will look in relation to the buttoning point because the button is so high. It might be a problem shortening the length as how it relates to the lower pockets. They are positioned a bit low. The pockets look better when they are in line with the lower button or the button is lower than the pocket pipes.
     


  11. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Thanks, Despos. Do you think I can go as far as 1.5-2 inches off the length? My tailor wanted to take 1.5-2 inches off the length, which I thought might be too extreme. She generally does good work, but I had my doubts about that recommendation.
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2012


  12. Semi Fly

    Semi Fly Active Member

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    Hi everyone. Thank you in advance for any advice you may have regarding the suit below. I have some general questions regarding whether to keep this suit or take a chance at a better quality one , but I do not want to clutter up this thread. I will post a link to my specific thread and would welcome non-fitment insight there. Thanks again!


    Un-altered and un-hemmed
    Crotch is a bit high though
    Waist is snug. Not uncomfortable but there is no movement with a tucked in shirt

    Saks Fifth Red/Trim Fit line (Joseph Abboud tag)


    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/316878/need-help-with-mtm-suit-for-business-school
     


  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ask her to mark the hem and baste it up at the shorter length, then try it on. Would take her 5 minutes.
     


  14. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    as to your comments. the waist can be bade larger. the crotch can be made deeper.
    if thats your normal posture then the back needs to be shortened at the top.
    if the back gets shortened check to see if the seat is tight,.if so then let out.
    your right shoulder is lower.. it is also causing the gap at the collar on the right side.
    the coat sleeves and the shirt sleeves should both be shortened.
     


  15. Threadbearer

    Threadbearer Senior member

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    This is my 3rd MTM shirt with the same company, and although I'm getting most measurements pretty well dialed in, my dropped shoulder is still causing some problems.

    What, specifically, do I need to request on my next order to smooth out the chest (especially near the left armpit) in the first and second photos, and also to eliminate that big wrinkle across the right shoulder blade in the third photo?

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


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