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The StyleForum Runway & High Fashion Thread

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by KingJulien, Mar 21, 2012.

  1. toothsomesound

    toothsomesound Senior member

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    at least on Howard street it seems like every other tall skinny asian dude and every third swagd out fuccboi is wearing raf simons. probably not a good indicator for the rest of the world. rarely see damir in the wild.
     
  2. Bam!ChairDance

    Bam!ChairDance Senior member

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    where would i even find a designer's sales figures? a simple google search gives me nuffin
     
  3. toothsomesound

    toothsomesound Senior member

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    i think when most people say stuff here they're going by what moves and what sits on the sale rack at 60, 70 80 off etc...
     
  4. Moonchild

    Moonchild Senior member

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    Good point BamChair... I've been searching for sales figures for menswear-only designers in particular (Raf Simons or Van Assche come to my mind), but can't find nuthin'...
    I'm interested in knowing how much "confidential" brands (as opposed to "mainstream" brands as Prada, Gucci,Diesel etc...) performs sales-wise... Maybe the case is different here in Europe, but even a brand as Raf Simons or Damir / Silent is quite confidential here. Besides some fashion aware niches in Paris (hello Fuuma!), the average french fashion buyer / consumer never heard of them...
    i'm really curious to know their marketing / business / marketing plan (how many items produced, sales figures, profits, and how many managed to "survive" for that long, i.e Raf ...).
    Does anybody have some sort of article or website link about such info?
     
  5. StephenHero

    StephenHero Senior member

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    So...

    I've spent the last couple years following the runway shows pretty closely and I want to get some better opinions. I don't care about fashion in the social sense so I don't follow the news or know how to pronounce names of labels and so forth , but I do think the creativity of the design warrants extreme praise. In many ways, it feels like fashion is the most effective form of creativity in its ability to offer an abundance of materialized creative offerings in the shortest amount of time and effort. So in that sense, it's perfect for my interests which are mostly in poaching design elements that show architectural and structural emphasis, as opposed to eclectic assemblage or deconstructed looks. I'm particularly interested in textural compositions, patterns, and geometrically-refined details, and designs that are both minimalist and intricate. With that said, I'm looking for some opinions of people who know what they're talking about who might be able to offer me more insight into this curious world, so I'm just gonna throw some shit out there in hopes of getting responses on any of it. (Fuuma, that means you buddy!)

    1) I'm under the impression that Paris and Milan (to a lesser extent) are vastly superior to New York in quality of design right now related to my interests. Very little of what I see in New York interests me due to what I perceive as a greater emphasis on assemblage and deconstruction. It feels like the interest for Parisian and Milanese designers is much stronger in the thoroughness of construction for individual elements (AW for Balenciaga comes to mind), with far less unresolved details than their New York counterparts (Rodarte comes to mind). Is that a fair assessment? I was under the impression that New York was considered an equal peer to Paris if it had not supplanted it as the center of the fashion design world, but my gut tells me Paris is really cleaning their clock, and that even excludes the couture work.

    2) How evenly is the talent of design thought to be distributed between houses of different size, stature, and price point? One would obviously assume the Louis Vuitton's and Chanel will always be offering A-list talent, but are relatively small houses with lower price points ever cited as being equals in design? For the sake of analogies, is fashion similar to baseball whereby the Yankees simply buy out all the best free agent pitching talent every summer?

    3) How much are the reviews from the big magazines affected by the reputations of the houses and designers? My casual interest in reading reviews tells me that Lanvin, Chanel, and Marc Jacobs could show a season full of burlap sacks and they'd be critical successes.

    4) On a similar note, I see little if any resistance to unwearable, conceptual fashion. It appears smaller houses that trend in that realm can simply get ignored out of convenience to critics, but how can a publication not eventually tell Thom Browne to fuck off?

    5) Versace/Tommy Hilger: Am I missing something or have they bought immunity from scorn from influential people? And to a lesser extent, is Oscar de la Renta just adding bird and flower decals to dresses? Or am I missing something?

    6) Does anybody have strong thoughts on Valentino's recent offerings? I've been more interested/fascinated by their recent shows than any others right now, despite the fact that my better judgment tells me their fetish with Venetian palazzo muses is over-design at its worst.

    7) I'd describe these houses as the bread and butter of my curiosity. Any recommendations for other houses that often feature similar minimalist/structuralist/geometric/neutral design orientations that intricate details? Or in other words, maybe the most refined designs? I just don't know the reputations for design aesthetics outside the major players. There's gotta be a few smaller houses I'm unaware of that play this game.

    Balenciaga
    Hermes
    Valentino
    Akris
    Calvin Klein
    Celine
    YSL
    Acne Studios
    Proenza Schouler
    A.P.C.
    Armani


    8) Or to put it in picture form, I want the opposite of this:

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    9) These are some slides of appealing designs I just pulled from my computer, if that helps.

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    Last edited: Sep 10, 2014
  6. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    anyone (@sipang , @the shah ?) going to post London FW2015 LC:M shows? at quick glance, I thought E. Tautz was pretty nice. staying true to the tailoring/classic roots. though the pointy clogs are not my cuppa tea . wide pants and voluminous coats, yeah!


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    Last edited: Jan 12, 2015
    7 people like this.
  7. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    JIL SANDER FW2015 MILAN

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    MARNI MENS FW2015 PITTI

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    5 people like this.
  8. LonerMatt

    LonerMatt Senior member

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    E Tauz coats and shirts are amazing...
     
  9. ManofKent

    ManofKent Senior member

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    I'm not really enamored by the Jil, but I really like much of the Marni.
     
  10. mike868y

    mike868y Senior member

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    Last edited: Jan 18, 2015
    6 people like this.
  11. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    a few random looks I liked from London and Italy. I'm not quite as into Zegna as I was hoping. I liked last season better. Looking forward to this week though.


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    2 people like this.
  12. brad-t

    brad-t Senior member

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    what's that last one?

    those barrett boots are indeed cool
     
  13. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Rory Parnell Mooney for MAN
     
  14. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    I liked Zegna but agree it wasn't pilati's best for them. Kinda dig the high waisted pants in Zegna and Jil though. Liked E Tautz too.
     
  15. GoldenTribe

    GoldenTribe Senior member

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    The menswear for Prada fw15 might be the saddest, drabbest crap I have ever seen go down the runway.
     
  16. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    thought Lemaire looked nice. not pushing any boundaries but a lot of nice pieces, especially outerwear as usual. definitely prefer the color choices here to those of the last couple seasons.

    not really sure i'm feeling Haider Ackermann. so much velvet, and the pants have somehow gotten even slimmer. i tried on a couple pairs this season and from the knee down they were really snug. most of these look like they'll be snug the whole way through. the dark green coat in look 2 is nice but it looks to be corduroy, which i don't love. the big green coat later is of course great, though not as spectacular as last fall's options. there's something about this that's a little too 'gucci for vampires' for my liking. will have to come back to it later to see what i think.
     
  17. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Last edited: Jan 21, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  18. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    Last edited: Jan 21, 2015
    2 people like this.
  19. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    haha obligatory [VIDEO][/VIDEO]
     
    2 people like this.
  20. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    here's this for anyone who may be interested (at least it's not pitti)
    Christophe Lemaire FW2015

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    Last edited: Jan 21, 2015
    10 people like this.

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