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The Official Dieworkwear Appreciation Thread

FlyingHorker

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Was reading the "things better bought used" article on PTO. How much room do you all look for in a denim jacket?

I'm looking at one with a 21" p2p. My chest is 38" and I usually wear a 38R in jackets.
 

Nobilis Animus

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Was reading the "things better bought used" article on PTO. How much room do you all look for in a denim jacket?

I'm looking at one with a 21" p2p. My chest is 38" and I usually wear a 38R in jackets.
I'm a 38 too and I'd prefer a 20" chest, myself. I size leather jackets and casual clothes much slimmer - if you've got it, flaunt it.

The cut has to be right though, or you'll be too constricted. Yet another reason I prefer in-person shopping.
 

FlyingHorker

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I'm a 38 too and I'd prefer a 20" chest, myself. I size leather jackets and casual clothes much slimmer - if you've got it, flaunt it.

The cut has to be right though, or you'll be too constricted. Yet another reason I prefer in-person shopping.
Yeah that's my hesitancy. I sized slim for a leather jacket in the past and it felt horrible. It looked great though.

I feel like a slightly roomy denim jacket has more room for error?
 

Keith Taylor

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Some of the really bold gun club checks have the same problem, I think they are difficult to pair with other clothes. @voxsartoria had a London Lounge red and black gun club made up that he paired with denim but I think there were still better matches for the denim.
Urgh, tell me about it. I’d bought my third gun club check sport coat without ever wearing them out of the house before I figured out the problem was that I didn’t own a single thing that went with them.
 

Nobilis Animus

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Yeah that's my hesitancy. I sized slim for a leather jacket in the past and it felt horrible. It looked great though.

I feel like a slightly roomy denim jacket has more room for error?
I just measured my favourite one (by Richard James, New York). It's actually smaller in the chest, at about 19". Bear in mind though that I have wider shoulders, so I can get away with a slimmer chest if the shoulders are right.

I think there's no harm in going for a 21" chest, especially if you're planning on keeping up with your weight training. At the worst it will allow for some layering underneath, but maybe make sure you can return it if it's no good?
 

Keith Taylor

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Was reading the "things better bought used" article on PTO. How much room do you all look for in a denim jacket?

I'm looking at one with a 21" p2p. My chest is 38" and I usually wear a 38R in jackets.
21” sounds about right for a fairly slim fit, provided your waist matches your chest. If you carry your weight at your belly a 21” chest might be a bit snug there. I don’t wear much denim, but when I buy jackets I always try before I buy as the fabric is so unforgiving.
 

FlyingHorker

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I just measured my favourite one (by Richard James, New York). It's actually smaller in the chest, at about 19". Bear in mind though that I have wider shoulders, so I can get away with a slimmer chest if the shoulders are right.

I think there's no harm in going for a 21" chest, especially if you're planning on keeping up with your weight training. At the worst it will allow for some layering underneath, but maybe make sure you can return it if it's no good?
Yeah I don't think there's any returns on this vintage one I was looking at, which is basically why I was asking for the fit everyone looks for. I wonder if it doesn't matter because it's a cropped fit anyway.
21” sounds about right for a fairly slim fit, provided your waist matches your chest. If you carry your weight at your belly a 21” chest might be a bit snug there. I don’t wear much denim, but when I buy jackets I always try before I buy as the fabric is so unforgiving.
Yeah I should be okay in terms of waist. Normally my problem is the hips catching, and denim jackets are fairly cropped. The jacket looks faded in the elbows and a bit in the collar, so I assume it's going to be neither stiff nor soft.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Was reading the "things better bought used" article on PTO. How much room do you all look for in a denim jacket?

I'm looking at one with a 21" p2p. My chest is 38" and I usually wear a 38R in jackets.
I'm a 38 chest and have a vintage Lee 101-J. Mine measures 21" across the chest, pit to pit, and then 19" across the back's shoulders.


imagejpg_72e6ba2d-c733-4a66-b34b-c4dfab77d674_1024x1024.jpg




I think it depends on the silhouette you're going for. Lee's 101J (or Storm Rider if you want the blanket-lined version) is cut loose, short, and has a dropped shoulder seam. The silhouette is more of a V-shape, so you want it to be a bit relaxed



P0.jpg
E32972CE-6AA5-432A-AF12-8F2D2E4F71D5 2.jpg




By contrast, Levi's Type III is more fitted and has a more rectangular silhouette.

86fa9a97d2132d153f7e0fab29ac3b5d.jpg
style-blogs-the-gq-eye-WS_MG_015520110705.jpg



I think you can get away with a smaller chest on the Levi's version. 3sixteen's has a similar silhouette and they list their small as having a 19.75" chest and the medium as being 20.5". If you were to do that with the Lee version, I think it would be too small because of the intended silhouette.

316_SS_01-682x1025.jpg
 

cr2596

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I’m a 39” chest and a 38L. My best fitting trucker (type 3 style) is a 21” P2P. Looks great over a shirt or with layers underneath without being constricted.
 

FlyingHorker

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I'm a 38 chest and have a vintage Lee 101-J. Mine measures 21" across the chest, pit to pit, and then 19" across the back's shoulders.


View attachment 1559990



I think it depends on the silhouette you're going for. Lee's 101J (or Storm Rider if you want the blanket-lined version) is cut loose, short, and has a dropped shoulder seam. The silhouette is more of a V-shape, so you want it to be a bit relaxed



View attachment 1559991View attachment 1559992



By contrast, Levi's Type III is more fitted and has a more rectangular silhouette.



I think you can get away with a smaller chest on the Levi's version. 3sixteen's has a similar silhouette and they list their small as having a 19.75" chest and the medium as being 20.5". If you were to do that with the Lee version, I think it would be too small because of the intended silhouette.
Perfect. Yes I was just looking at a Lee's and it looks to be roughly the same measurements with the slanted pockets. I dig the old guy's fit. Sounds like I should bite on this one then.

I don't think the standard rectangle+slim fit would look good on me.

What's the length on your jacket?
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Perfect. Yes I was just looking at a Lee's and it looks to be roughly the same measurements with the slanted pockets. I dig the old guy's fit. Sounds like I should bite on this one then.

I don't think the standard rectangle+slim fit would look good on me.

What's the length on your jacket?
Mine is 21.5" in length. Measured at the back of the jacket from the collar seam to the hem. FWIW, I'm 5'10" and find it hits the waistband of my jeans
 

FlyingHorker

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Mine is 21.5" in length. Measured at the back of the jacket from the collar seam to the hem. FWIW, I'm 5'10" and find it hits the waistband of my jeans
Woah ok, I may have to continue searching then. This one looks to be a good 3" longer, if not more. That would definitely go well past the top of my waistband.
 

hpreston

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Urgh, tell me about it. I’d bought my third gun club check sport coat without ever wearing them out of the house before I figured out the problem was that I didn’t own a single thing that went with them.
Which is why it is important to build a cohesive wardrobe with items that complement each other, and not just buy good looking individual pieces:
 

Keith Taylor

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Which is why it is important to build a cohesive wardrobe with items that complement each other, and not just buy good looking individual pieces:
True, but sometimes good sense takes a back seat when you stumble on something you really like. Your wardrobe wouldn’t be complete without a few ill advised choices lurking shamefully in the back :)
 

Despos

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Urgh, tell me about it. I’d bought my third gun club check sport coat without ever wearing them out of the house before I figured out the problem was that I didn’t own a single thing that went with them.
When a client picks a cloth for a jacket my next question is what trousers or shirts will you wear with this. then we look thru sample books. Not to sell trousers or shirts but to see how practical the jacket is. Also to see if the trousers you pick are already in your wardrobe. Can be a deal breaker if the cloth is difficult to pair with a trouser or you have to find that one perfect shade of color to work. Or if it is limited to working with only a specific weave/texture of cloth.
Next input is; buy a jacket that works with several trouser combinations or else you just bought an odd jacket that is worn in the same way a suit is. Always with the one trouser. If you have 30 jackets it’s not the end of the world. If you want expansive wardrobe possibilities with a few jackets, get jackets that accessorize easily. It’s the accessories that alter the look/application of the jacket. Casual to dressed up.
Resist picking cloths that on their own are home runs because of unique colors or patterns but aren’t easy to wear.
Real life example is a client loves a cloth, makes it up as a jacket. 6 months later I ask how he likes it or does he wear it often and I hear, “ don’t wear it, I don’t know what to wear with it”
 
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