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The (hopefully) definitive thread on NYC tailors

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by tgfny, Jun 20, 2005.

  1. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    where is the Zipper"
    shouldn't be that hard to take in from the sides
     
  2. pnewelljr

    pnewelljr Senior member

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    Sorr
    Good catch, had a stupid moment. I am worried if they only take it in from the sides the pockets will move to far to the sides?
     
  3. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    if you need to take in more then 3" total. just size down
     
  4. super1flavor

    super1flavor Senior member

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    I have to caution others on here to carefully consider Alexis custom tailor. He was someone I previously used and mainly based on the recommendations on here (another style forum mistake on my part - really people, seriously, when you recommend someone or something, please know what you're talking about) and the results were terrible. I had similar results to others on the previous page -- I took a navy hopsack kiton/piombo blazer to him to have the sleeves shortened. I had always gone from the shoulder/sleeve, however this time he said he would remove buttons and take up from the cuff, to you know "save me money." I approved (not sure why -- this should never be done). The result was sloppy and to this day, there is noticeable, but slight damage where the buttons used to be. Drives me nuts since it's my go to blazer and fits perfectly everywhere else. I just deal with it and next time I have extra cash, I'll just go get a new one. Fortunately, I purchased it heavily marked down to about $800 and this is already about 2 or 3 years ago so I've gotten some money worth of use out of it to this point. Could be that Alexis's place is practically pitch black. I also took a suit to him and he didn't do a great job either. Really, as others have said, he can be lazy and tells you things can't be done, but other tailors will do the job. All of this is unacceptable.

    Prior to that, I went to L&S and that was another place that did poor work 50% of the time. Some simple stuff too. For them, I think it was a byproduct of just being too busy and that's the problem with some of these places. It's just rip, cut, sew. I've been going to Ignacio for the last year or two based on the recommendation of others I work with and the work started off very good, but over the last 6 months or so, they too are becoming sloppy. I mean really, what is with all of these tailors? Can't they just sit still for 30 minutes to do a job correctly? Uneven stitching and stuff of that nature is totally unacceptable. If pants need to be rehemmed, etc because you don't like the length, that's different, but the quality of work in NYC is overall, pretty terrible and I just don't get it. Never have.

    Now I have two new jackets and I want to have some very reasonable and entirely doable alterations done, but I am cautious about where to go. I see there is a newer place Beyond Bespoke Alterations on the net and on several different sites the reviews are almost 5 star across the board. I might give it a try. I just wish there was an old fashion tailor who if you brought him something he would take his time and do it right.
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2014
  5. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Why don't you just go to Wilfred ?
     
  6. super1flavor

    super1flavor Senior member

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    I hadn't considered him. I am willing to pay a premium price if the quality of work is good. I have a Cucinelli coat that I just purchased and it needs the sleeves shorten (fortunately in this case, can be done from the cuff) so this is about as standard as standard tailoring can be, however I absolutely refuse to accept anything less than perfect this time. Shit, I'd just rather just fold the sleeves back 1 inch and walk around like a dope instead if it means that I am going to take a $3k coat to someone only to have them do a crap job. This appears to be the problem of many on yelp, here and elsewhere -- lack of consistency. I can have any joker do a pant hem for $15, $20, $25 whatever, I can care less, frankly. I should clarify, Ignacio has been very good 80-85% of the time. In fact, to this point, and 18 years in NYC, they are the best of the bunch I've used and I've tried a lot, including Ramon, that crazy Hong Kong guy, really most of them. It's really some of the specialized stuff outerwear, etc, that can throw Ignacio off.

    I would love to find a tailor (for the high end stuff) who is the person that does both the inspection and work and done in a day or two -- not that I am in any hurry or encourage the tailor to hurry, but I think things become stale a couple days after they view the item. I think some places, like Ignacio and L&S do the inspection, give you a quote, goes on a rack only to get done a week or two later and some things get lost in translation during that time period or in the hand off to the person actually doing the work.

    I'm doing some research on Wilfred now. Some mixed reviews. May I ask why you recommend this place?
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2014
  7. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    He's been doing my alterations for about 10 years. Very diligent - and if something is not to my liking, he will re-do it as many times as necessary.

    Yelp is a horrible source of information for reviews. Most people posting reviews there have no ideas what they are talking about, across all categories. It's basically the equivalent of asking your poorly dressed, clueless colleagues for tailor recommendations.

    Stick to recommendations on this forum and similar places.

    I know there's many here who think Wilfred is overpriced - but I'm willing to pay those prices for the few times a year I need a garment I care about, to be tailored well.
     
  8. PhiloVance

    PhiloVance Senior member

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    I would recommend Wilfred's with the following caveats:

    1) If possible, try to see Wilfred personally. I understand that he is around all week except Monday.

    2) Be prepared to wait perhaps a week or two for your clothes to be ready. I generally am not in a rush. Normally my clothes are ready within 5-7 days; in some cases, if I don't like the fit - they can usually turn around the additional work within a few days. To be honest, the issue that I generally have is with trouser length - their preference is to the shorter look with the 2 inch cuff, which I'm not a fan of. But I've gone enough times now that I think they know how I like it now.

    3) The guy you want to know there is Rob - he works the front desk and keeps track of everything. Also, if there are any issues, he is the guy who will make sure its corrected in a timely fashion.

    I don't mean to give you the impression that there are always issues - I usually don't have any problems with the work. But I'm a fairly regular customer so just highlighting what I think will maximize your experience.

    Edited after reading GDL203's comments - yes, a bit pricier but I generally take items that I want to look right there. And yes, they will make sure its done well to your satisfaction - which may take more than one appointment.
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2014
  9. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    How are Wilfred's buttonholes (thinking of adding some to an overcoat)?
     
  10. PhiloVance

    PhiloVance Senior member

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    I haven't had buttonholes done in a while. I don't have that keen of an eye, to be honest, so they seemed fine to me but not sure what I would be looking for to determine that it was not well done.

    Lately, it seems that I've been taking a lot of jackets there that already have working buttonholes - so the sleeve needed to be shortened from the shoulder. I think the last jacket I took there was a dark brown silk/cashmere Drake's piece - I thought they did a great job with it.
     
  11. lefty

    lefty Senior member

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    I guess I had one of the few poor experiences with Wilfred.

    This was a few years ago. Took a cashmere PL coat to have the shortened, button holes cut and a small roll behind the collar removed. The sleeves were fine - machine sewn holes - but one shoulder came back with a large bubble over one side. They redid it and the shoulders were wavy on both sides. They said that was my shoulders so I brought in another jacket of the same material and cut and the shoulders were perfect. They redid it and the shoulder line was still wavy. Wilfred said he couldn't do it again as the material was too delicate. No refund, though he did give me the bullshit line "wear it for a while and it will settle." Wasn't expecting them to cover the cost of the coat, but a refund of the $160 alteration didn't seem unreasonable.

    So this beautiful cashmere coat sits in my closet waiting for the day that my shoulders get lumpy.

    lefty
     
  12. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    They shortened the sleeves from the sleevehead?
     
  13. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    They're fine. Machine-sewn. I never asked for handsewn buttonholes - too expensive and not worth the cost to me.
     
  14. PhiloVance

    PhiloVance Senior member

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    Yes, from the shoulder.
     
  15. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    I was asking lefty - trying to understand how shoulders can be messed up if the jacket needs to be shortened and buttonholes to be cut. If there are no buttonholes yet, it would be very odd to shorten a sleeve from the sleevehead.
     
  16. PhiloVance

    PhiloVance Senior member

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    Gotcha - and yes, you're right. It does sound odd!
     
  17. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    Many thanks Gents - may give him a try.
     
  18. lefty

    lefty Senior member

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    The fucked up shoulder came from removing the roll behind the neck. As I understand it: remove collar, open up shoulder seams, cut excess amount, close shoulder, attach collar.

    I should have left it alone and just leaned forward whenever I wore it. Then I could be like that guy in the old joke.

    lefty
     
  19. SS 376

    SS 376 Well-Known Member

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    I use Ignacio's tailor. Although I don't live in the city anymore, I still try to go there whenever I can. Sometimes I will hold onto stuff and just wait until I am in the city again, just because I like their work so much. I've used them for several pieces (suits and blazers) but nothing that required major, major surgery. Pretty much the only tailor I've used where I haven't had to talk them through everything. Also the only tailor I've found that didn't think I was going to be using my suit to stack boxes above my head or that I needed enough room in my suit in case I needed to surrender to police officers or something.
     
  20. touchogrey

    touchogrey Well-Known Member

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    Astoria!

    Anyone know any good tailors and ALSO, a dry cleaner that can do suits?

    Haven't found any suit specialists in Astoria yet. Kinda a drag going all the way to Manhattan just to press a suit now and then (and I"m really too lazy to learn (; )
     

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