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The (hopefully) definitive thread on NYC tailors

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by tgfny, Jun 20, 2005.

  1. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    Taxgenius69, gdl203 and David Reeves: many thanks for your comforting responses. I have a follow-up question on canvassing though: how is it that tailors like Mr. Ned can offer full canvassing starting at $850 and Jantzen offers it at no extra charge?

    "Jantzen makes very good, fully canvassed suits (you have to request canvassing, but it is no extra charge) and reasonable prices."

    http://styleforum.pbworks.com/Jantzen


    I do find this a little puzzling. Perhaps some kind of superior fusing as oposed to inferior canvas? Using the best canvas vs the best fusing all things being equal the canvas suit should at least cost your manufacturer more.

    There is certainly a grain of truth in what your tailor said about canvas not done right. If it's not well executed it can produce inferior results. Like tailoring in general there's lots of tailors out there but they don't all make as good as each other. With canvas you can get better than others, same with fusing.

    With bad canvasing the suit looks bulletproof and you can see actually see the canvas. This is less of a problem with heavier cloths but with todays cloths it's a major problem which is one of the reasons tailors like to either push fusing or heavier cloths.

    A good fused suit will be better in many ways than a bad canvassed suit. I had a tailor in Leeds who made my suits when I was about 18. The canvas work was terrible and the suits just were not as good as an off the rack fused Gieves and Hawkes. Unfortunately I was so thin I couldn't buy off the rack at the time.
     


  2. mccvi

    mccvi Senior member

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    Switching tailors and need an updated recommendation.

    I've gone through the entire post and am still trying to tease out who to trust with major alterations (resizing, etc...). Willing to pay to have it done right, but don't want to pay more for the sake of paying more. Any help? Anywhere in Manhattan is fine.

    Current thoughts about Wilfred's, Bhambi's, Igancio's? Are these too low a tier of tailor for recutting, etc...? Not intending to offend, just curious.

    Many thanks.
     


  3. lx.mtchll

    lx.mtchll Member

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    It can be done at a size down. After that your going to run into problems like the pockets being too big, the armhole too big (this can't really be fixed) pockets on trousers close together. I suppose it depends on how particular you are. Having said that it's going to be an expensive and extensive alteration. Your looking at sleeves, every side seam, narrowing the shoulders, taking in the underarm cut, shortening sleeve and jacket length? Waistband (moving loops), hips, slimming down the leg.

    My company actually does alterations, but I wouldn't reccomend this because it's 3 sizes down.


    Thank you for your insight. I've decided not to go ahead with this and instead sell the jacket.

    Another question though, would it be equally as difficult to reduce the size of a traditional wool peacoat from a EU 48 down to a 46? I've attached some photos of the coat. Thanks!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  4. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    No problem to do this.
     


  5. GiltEdge

    GiltEdge Senior member

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    let me partially answer my own question if anyone's curious about wilfred's

    $65 to take in the coat
    $20 for sleeve buttons (non-functional)
    $20 for hemming pants


    Damn in Nassau county its $20 for the coat, and $10 for hemmings and let outs, by an Italian trained tailor that does great work.
     


  6. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Senior member

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    The guy at LNC did a pretty good job on my trouser hems. A touch on the long side, but not so much that I have to have them redone. I think because I stated that I wanted them with little-to-no break I got them with a little break. Which was my plan.

    I searched through this thread and cannot find any comments on working buttonholes done at LNC. I'm a little nervous about trusting him with this, as it has the potential for disaster.

    Has anyone had working buttonholes done on jackets at LNC?

    Or should I just go to Wilfred's or someplace else? Who does the best buttonholes?
     


  7. TC11201

    TC11201 Senior member

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    The guy at LNC did a pretty good job on my trouser hems. A touch on the long side, but not so much that I have to have them redone. I think because I stated that I wanted them with little-to-no break I got them with a little break. Which was my plan.

    I searched through this thread and cannot find any comments on working buttonholes done at LNC. I'm a little nervous about trusting him with this, as it has the potential for disaster.

    Has anyone had working buttonholes done on jackets at LNC?

    Or should I just go to Wilfred's or someplace else? Who does the best buttonholes?


    Yes, the guy at LNC has made working buttonholes for me many, many times. He's done them on everything from Kiton suits to Isaia suits / sportcoats to Battistoni suits and on plenty of other high end makes. He also makes sportcoats, pants and suits for me and does a consistently excellent job (and has gotten better / more flexible stylistically in the past few years). On hemming / cuffing pants, my experience has been like yours - he does seem to like a bit more of a break than I prefer, but he accomodates my preferences - just need to be very specific about where you like pants cuffed or hemmed (that's also, btw, something I've noticed with plenty of other tailors - they all seem to want to put in a sizeable break). I don't think you have anything to fear on buttonholes - his workmanship is topnotch. Just wear an appropriate shirt and make sure you are very specific about where you want your sleeves to end. As long as you communicate your stylistic preferences clearly, the work quality will be there.
     


  8. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Senior member

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    ^ Thanks for the assurance.

    I just bought four jackets at the Isaia sample sale. I'll bring one over at first and work any kinks out before bringing in the other three. Luckily, they all seem to hit pretty well at the wrist already.

    As far as the workmanship goes, The trouser hems were top notch. He overlocks the raw edge and then hand sews the hems with a catch stitch. A huge step up from the machine stitch with nylon thread my local dry cleaner/tailor does.
     


  9. JoelF

    JoelF Senior member

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    My experience with LNC - give him measurements, the work will come out perfectly and both he and you will be very happy. For hems the outseam measurement is key, when he eyeballed the pants and pinned they came out an inch too long. Nice guy and his prices are reasonable.
     


  10. brooklyn

    brooklyn Senior member

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    i recently visited LNC for the first time to get the sides taken in on two of my jackets. The prices were very reasonable and the work was great. Turns out one of the tailors there was my local tailor who closed his shop about five years ago. I had four mtm suits made by him before he closed shop. If he does the buttonholes you will be fine. He only works there on Sundays
     


  11. Using Technology

    Using Technology Senior member

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    I use Ugras on the UWS. I use him for simple alteration work. He is quick and convenient. A number of the tailors mentioned here are a little too downtown to be convenient. http://newyork.citysearch.com/profil...om_tailor.html
    Anyone else had experience with these guys? I'm looking to get a used suit altered (waist, hem, sleeves taken out a few inches each...) and would rather not go all the way downtown. Or other UWS recommendations?
     


  12. NYClawyer

    NYClawyer Member

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    I am looking for an inexpensive tailor in Midtown East -- don't need anything crazy done, maybe just finishing some pants bottoms and some waist supression on a jacket.

    Would you trust these things to a dry cleaner tailor -- any recommendations?
     


  13. ckessani

    ckessani Well-Known Member

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    i have a three button canvassed suit(corneliani) in size 38. I am a size 38 in slimmer suits but the corneliani is a tad big at the shoulders and spacious arround the waist. I want to take it in at the waist and shorten the sleeves. is it worth it to pull the shoulders in a little? how much would a reasonable tailor charge for this? do u know anyone in queens?
     


  14. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    What's the custom on tipping in NYC? If you have given a tailor a $100+ alteration job and he works for himself, do you still tip?
     


  15. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    Yes. It's between 23rd and 22nd on the east side of the street. In the bottom of Madison Green, or whatever that big apt building is called.

    Am I correct in assuming that Cardelino has been taken over by Edward Park (located at 186 5th Av at 23rd)?
     


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