Taxgenius69, gdl203 and David Reeves: many thanks for your comforting responses. I have a follow-up question on canvassing though: how is it that tailors like Mr. Ned can offer full canvassing starting at $850 and Jantzen offers it at no extra charge? "Jantzen makes very good, fully canvassed suits (you have to request canvassing, but it is no extra charge) and reasonable prices." http://styleforum.pbworks.com/Jantzen I do find this a little puzzling. Perhaps some kind of superior fusing as oposed to inferior canvas? Using the best canvas vs the best fusing all things being equal the canvas suit should at least cost your manufacturer more. There is certainly a grain of truth in what your tailor said about canvas not done right. If it's not well executed it can produce inferior results. Like tailoring in general there's lots of tailors out there but they don't all make as good as each other. With canvas you can get better than others, same with fusing. With bad canvasing the suit looks bulletproof and you can see actually see the canvas. This is less of a problem with heavier cloths but with todays cloths it's a major problem which is one of the reasons tailors like to either push fusing or heavier cloths. A good fused suit will be better in many ways than a bad canvassed suit. I had a tailor in Leeds who made my suits when I was about 18. The canvas work was terrible and the suits just were not as good as an off the rack fused Gieves and Hawkes. Unfortunately I was so thin I couldn't buy off the rack at the time.