The (hopefully) definitive thread on NYC tailors

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by tgfny, Jun 20, 2005.

  1. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    I recently stopped by Wong's Custom Tailor downtown. They do all the work on the premises. His main thing seems to be packages, the cheapest starting at $850 for a suit and two shirts. He indicated that he sets both lapels and buttonholes by hand. When I asked him about canvassing, he questioned why someone would want that in the first place. He thinks there are mainly two reasons why you want to stay away from fully canvassed: (i) if not done properly, it may show, and (ii) dry cleaners may mess it up. I recently ‘moved up’ to Chan and ordered two suits from him, so still have to get my first canvassed suits, but can anyone comment on Mr. Wong’s reasoning?
    Utter ignorance or bullshit.
     


  2. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    I'm trying to find a good NYC tailor to reduce a Jil Sander suit from a 52 european down to a 46. I called Wilfred's and they said no problem. How realistically could this alteration be made without ruining the suit?

    Thanks


    Forget about it.
     


  3. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    This reminds me of the douchebag salespeople at Lord Willy's telling me that plastic buttons are fine on a $200+ shirt because cleaners will mess them up anyway... [​IMG]

    I got threw out of that store once. He'd just opened up and I was managing the Duncan Quinn stores. I went over to welcome him to the neighbourhood, take a look at the store and to say hello. He intantly was on edge. When I picked up a pair of boxers and said the button fastening was interesting he said I had to get out. I thought he was joking but he meant it.

    I thought it was really rich since Lord Willies is a bit of an "aren't we eccentric and British" Duncan Quinn clone.

    Is anybody else sick of eccentric branded, or rock n roll tailors?
     


  4. lx.mtchll

    lx.mtchll Member

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    Forget about it.
    I've literally called every recommended NYC tailor and none have hesitated on saying yes. Could you please explain why this would not be possible? Thank you.
     


  5. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    It can be done at a size down. After that your going to run into problems like the pockets being too big, the armhole too big (this can't really be fixed) pockets on trousers close together. I suppose it depends on how particular you are. Having said that it's going to be an expensive and extensive alteration. Your looking at sleeves, every side seam, narrowing the shoulders, taking in the underarm cut, shortening sleeve and jacket length? Waistband (moving loops), hips, slimming down the leg.

    My company actually does alterations, but I wouldn't reccomend this because it's 3 sizes down.
     


  6. negusnegas

    negusnegas Senior member

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    I am definitely plus one on LNC. The guy is really good and were quality oriented. I second people saying that you will literally have to talk him into doing certain things, but when he does do it, it's great work.
     


  7. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Senior member

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    I am definitely plus one on LNC. The guy is really good and were quality oriented. I second people saying that you will literally have to talk him into doing certain things, but when he does do it, it's great work.

    What's the turnaround time there? I have an interview on Thursday morning and need a pair of suit trousers hemmed, with a cuff, by Wed. evening.

    Do you think LNC could accommodate me if I pop in early tomorrow morning? Or this afternoon, if they're open today?

    Edit: Called and they seem to be able to do quick turnaround. I'll be giving them a try.
     


  8. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    But you aren't a shirtmaker or shirt expert, so what could you know?

    Actually, I am a shirt expert of the highest order. I used to be a shirtmaker too but now I focus on teaching the art and - well - being an expert.
     


  9. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Actually, I am a shirt expert of the highest order. I used to be a shirtmaker too but now I focus on teaching the art and - well - being an expert.

    I didn't know shirtmaking was part of of the course study in France to enter finance, but I'm not surprised. Did you intern with Kabbaz?
     


  10. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    I didn't know shirtmaking was part of of the course study in France to enter finance, but I'm not surprised.
    Pottery and shirtmaking are up there in the list of business school electives.
     


  11. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Pottery and shirtmaking are up there in the list of business school electives.

    So . . . alongside your internship with Kabbaz, you could have also studied cracked pots under Teplitz. Fascinating.
     


  12. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    So . . . alongside your internship with Kabbaz, you could have also studied cracked pots under Teplitz. Fascinating.

    I don't know this Teplitz fellow... is he from auto-admission?
     


  13. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't know this Teplitz fellow... is he from auto-admission?

    Isn't he a marketing guru?
     


  14. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    Taxgenius69, gdl203 and David Reeves: many thanks for your comforting responses. I have a follow-up question on canvassing though: how is it that tailors like Mr. Ned can offer full canvassing starting at $850 and Jantzen offers it at no extra charge?

    "Jantzen makes very good, fully canvassed suits (you have to request canvassing, but it is no extra charge) and reasonable prices."

    http://styleforum.pbworks.com/Jantzen
     


  15. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    But you aren't a shirtmaker or shirt expert, so what could you know?


    So if gdl starts selling underwear that'd make him an expert, no? Perhaps it is time gdl adds underwear to his B&S inventory.
     


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