St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread

[Patrick1053]

What are you trying to achieve? A perfect fitting pair of shoes? I frankly don't think that's possible even for first pair of bespoke shoes.

If you are not looking for a "perfect" fit, but something that fits you better than normal RTW per say, I think you need to do it step by step, knowing that getting the fit perfect is not easy, manage your expectation. If you feel comfident with the adjustment he suggested, go with it. Otherwise, make another trial or just give up.

Did you post this private conversation with his consent?

I am just trying to get a good fit. I understand that I should not expect perfection. I did not get his consent for two reasons. First of all, I did not think there was anything of a private nature in what I posted. Also, If I asked his permission to use it I would have to wait another week to get a reply.

 

[Patrick1053]

I would also add that I am mainly trying to eliminate or at least reduce the gaping (see the pics I posted) around my ankle. Do you think that lowering the instep is sufficient? Is it possible that the heel cup itself needs to be adjusted?

 

[wurger]

So i recieved a reply from Philip about my second trial shoe today. Here it is.

"We will make the following adjustments to your personal last no. 1.069:

- lower the instep area by 4mm
- rasp off the arch to give you more support and try to get rid of the topline bending outside
- add 2-3mm at the small toe area

Still, I want to point out the following.
- Like said in the first email, this is not Bespoke, this is a personal last without fitting guarantees because the final pair will be different than
the trial shoes because you will break them in.
- Shoes will always have creases because you have to bend your foot at some point. Of course if there is too less room the shoes will be tight and if there is too much room the folds will be too big and dig into your foot.

Please advise how to to proceed:
- go for the final pair
- make another trial shoe (costs: € 150 plus shipping, these costs will not be deducted from the final pair).

I am looking forward to hearing from you,
thank you"


What do you think I should do? I would hate to waste the time and money on another trial.

Philip is very frank and fair with his suggestions. Ultimately, it's your money, reading from your last sentence, you don't really want to pay for another pair of trial shoes, which is fair enough. I am sure I can give you reasons to get the extra pair, but it's not my money and I am not in your shoes.

 

[Patrick1053]

Philip is very frank and fair with his suggestions. Ultimately, it's your money, reading from your last sentence, you don't really want to pay for another pair of trial shoes, which is fair enough. I am sure I can give you reasons to get the extra pair, but it's not my money and I am not in your shoes.

Thank you. Putting money aside (it is not really that much after all) what are your thoughts on the pros and cons of going for a trial shoe again or a final pair. Do you think the ankle gaping can be adjusted? and how?

 

[wurger]

Thank you. Putting money aside (it is not really that much after all) what are your thoughts on the pros and cons of going for a trial shoe again or a final pair. Do you think the ankle gaping can be adjusted? and how?

Well, it's all about the money, if it's at no cost, am I correct to say you would not have asked the question in the first place? There is no cons in getting an extra pair of trial shoes, as your 2nd pair doesn't really fit you, I can assure you it's worth the wait.

Considering I didn't even know what's a long heel line until @DWFII shared his wisdom, it would be like blind leading the blind for me to give you suggestions on how the ankle gap be reduced. I actually thought reducing the instep would do the job, that is before DWFII pointed out there are a lot more to that!

 

[wurger]

Here is what I share with a new maker that I don't get to meet in person, the end results are definitely not perfect, but mostly worked out fine.

 

[Patrick1053]

Well, it's all about the money, if it's at no cost, am I correct to say you would not have asked the question in the first place? There is no cons in getting an extra pair of trial shoes, as your 2nd pair doesn't really fit you, I can assure you it's worth the wait.

Considering I didn't even know what's a long tread line until @DWFII shared his wisdom, it would be like blind leading the blind for me to give you suggestions on how the ankle gap be reduced. I actually thought reducing the instep would do the job, that is before DWFII pointed out there are a lot more to that!

True. Hopefully, I can get more feedback. In the meantime, I sent him a response asking about the gaping, and how he thinks it can be corrected.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

So i recieved a reply from Philip about my second trial shoe today. Here it is.

"We will make the following adjustments to your personal last no. 1.069:

- lower the instep area by 4mm
- rasp off the arch to give you more support and try to get rid of the topline bending outside
- add 2-3mm at the small toe area

Still, I want to point out the following.
- Like said in the first email, this is not Bespoke, this is a personal last without fitting guarantees because the final pair will be different than
the trial shoes because you will break them in.
- Shoes will always have creases because you have to bend your foot at some point. Of course if there is too less room the shoes will be tight and if there is too much room the folds will be too big and dig into your foot.

Please advise how to to proceed:
- go for the final pair
- make another trial shoe (costs: € 150 plus shipping, these costs will not be deducted from the final pair).

I am looking forward to hearing from you,
thank you"


What do you think I should do? I would hate to waste the time and money on another trial.

What are you trying to achieve? A perfect fitting pair of shoes? I frankly don't think that's possible even for first pair of bespoke shoes.

If you are not looking for a "perfect" fit, but something that fits you better than normal RTW per say, I think you need to do it step by step, knowing that getting the fit perfect is not easy, manage your expectation. If you feel comfident with the adjustment he suggested, go with it. Otherwise, make another trial or just give up.

Did you post this private conversation with his consent?

Thank you. Putting money aside (it is not really that much after all) what are your thoughts on the pros and cons of going for a trial shoe again or a final pair. Do you think the ankle gaping can be adjusted? and how?

I would agree with @Encore and with @wurger with paying the extra money towards obtaining the best fit possible. Which would be horrible to lose that sort of money (it is still a large sum), but if you truly believe you would be purchasing more shoes from StC than it is worth the loss.

The extra fittings would get you closer to a better fitting shoe. Which is what you want. Less to no ankle gaping. Less material wastage across the vamp, and probably better support.

As important.. is you would be happier with the finished product aesthetically. After you nail down fit, the next most critical aspect is the look of the shoe. You would be happier wearing it if it looks better on your foot, and it would not be sitting there being an expensive tricket.

Lastly, considering you do not know if these adjustments mentioned actually will work, it signifies you are putting trust into the modifications based on a concept. As much as I love StC shoes, I do not have faith in theory. I have faith in a tested practical product.

Going straight to final product would eliminate the additional costs. You may have the fit you are looking for more swiftly. You would have confidence that the proposed changes can completed.

 

[DWFII]

Considering I didn't even know what's a long tread line until @DWFII shared his wisdom, it would be like blind leading the blind for me to give you suggestions on how the ankle gap be reduced. I actually thought reducing the instep would do the job, that is before DWFII pointed out there are a lot more to that!

"Long heel" / "Treadline"--two different things.

Reducing the instep girth might...emphasis might...also reduce the long heel a bit. And that would tighten the facings gap, which, if everything else is correct (or close), might reduce the gaps at the sides of the foot, simply through the mechanism of tightening the laces over the instep. Gaps like that are complex and the reason for them goes right to the heart of the suitability of the last (in terms of shape and size) to the foot.

IMO

 

[KPDarb]

My most recent commission from Stc: 633 in kudu suede on my personal last.

A notable different between these and other 633 you'll see from StC is the sole edge/welt. The edge was left 2 mm wider than a standard spec shoe from stc.

 

[nishant]

My most recent commission from Stc: 633 in kudu suede on my personal last.

A notable different between these and other 633 you'll see from StC is the sole edge/welt. The edge was left 2 mm wider than a standard spec shoe from stc.

View attachment 1399385
View attachment 1399384

Phenomenal ! WoW .. just WOW..

 

[KPDarb]

A few more...

 

[bdavro23]

A few more...
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Is there an appreciable difference between Kudu suede and reverse Calf?

 

[KPDarb]

Is there an appreciable difference between Kudu suede and reverse Calf?

The biggest difference which is noticeable right away is how "spongy" the kudu feels compared to Janus suede (my chukka). It is certainly softer and more pliable than I expected even with StC level of stiffness. Visually, it is really interesting and hard to capture in photos.

When I finally decide to pull the trigger on a pair of 539, it will likely be kudu in dark brown.

 

[ivancream]

My most recent commission from Stc: 633 in kudu suede on my personal last.

A notable different between these and other 633 you'll see from StC is the sole edge/welt. The edge was left 2 mm wider than a standard spec shoe from stc.

View attachment 1399385
View attachment 1399384

I really like those extra 2 mm. Looks like a shoes with storm-welt but without it. Very interesting and I think this combine very well in a more or less casual shoes. The result is Gorgeous !!!