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wurger

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"Long heel" / "Treadline"--two different things.

Reducing the instep girth might...emphasis might...also reduce the long heel a bit. And that would tighten the facings gap, which, if everything else is correct (or close), might reduce the gaps at the sides of the foot, simply through the mechanism of tightening the laces over the instep. Gaps like that are complex and the reason for them goes right heart of the suitability of the last (in terms of shape and size) to the foot.

IMO
ah yes, long heel is what I meant, I can’t even get a simple term right.:oops:
 

DWFII

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cliffordcaucus

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My most recent commission from Stc: 633 in kudu suede on my personal last.

A notable different between these and other 633 you'll see from StC is the sole edge/welt. The edge was left 2 mm wider than a standard spec shoe from stc.

View attachment 1399385
View attachment 1399384
So good! Did you opt for a 6mm waist? All the shoe’s specs work very well together 🥴
 

KPDarb

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I really like those extra 2 mm. Looks like a shoes with storm-welt but without it. Very interesting and I think this combine very well in a more or less casual shoes. The result is Gorgeous !!!
Thank you! Exactly what I was going for.

So good! Did you opt for a 6mm waist? All the shoe’s specs work very well together 🥴
Thanks! haven’t heard of any change to the waist... might be worth looking at in the future.
 

Shawl Lapel

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My most recent commission from Stc: 633 in kudu suede on my personal last.

A notable different between these and other 633 you'll see from StC is the sole edge/welt. The edge was left 2 mm wider than a standard spec shoe from stc.

View attachment 1399385
These are really cool. Is it a hidden-seam split toe? As opposed to the non-split toe version of this model from a few pages back?
 

KPDarb

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These are really cool. Is it a hidden-seam split toe? As opposed to the non-split toe version of this model from a few pages back?
Thanks man. The toe seam is indeed hidden which is different from the 633S which is a hand sewn moc toe. If you're referring to the black hatch grain model from a few pages back that is the same as mine with the hidden toe seam.
 

Mr. Pink

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A few notes on my St. Crispin's fitting experiences in case they'll help anyone going through the process. I had purchased a number of pairs of St. Crispin's shoes in with fit adjustments to standard lasts but ultimately decided I was unhappy with the fit and decided to try a personal last. Zach who represented St. Crispin's in the US for a time had measured my foot and had sent the measurements to Phillip, but I didn't follow up until last year. We worked from those measurements and pictures I sent as well as observations I offered Phillip about the way the shoes with fit adjustments actually fit my foot. The first trial pair was an improvement over my RTW shoes with fit adjustments but needed further improvement. Adjustments to a second trial pair overshot a bit but things seemed close. We discussed some adjustments and I ordered a final pair.

The result, while okay, really speaks to DFWII comments that the foot is an extraordinarily complicated piece of architecture, so small adjustments to one aspect of a last affect others. The other observation I'd make about going from trial shoes to a final pair is that St. Crispin's are very structured shoes compared to most, so small imperfections in fit, not easily noticeable in the soft trial shoes become obvious in the final pair. It's important to pay close attention to the fit and speak up about any concerns however minor. Also, for Patrick, I wish I had done one last trial shoe to get the fit as close as possible to perfect. Note, I was doing this by email. This was all at the end of last year, so I never even thought about Zoom or Skype. I think the result would have been better if I had.

With all that said, I've been back in touch with Phillip. We're going to adjust the last and relast the shoes. I'll be doing a full measurement of my feet (with my wife's help) and also providing pictures and feedback and having a Zoom consultation with Phillip. I think the further adjustments needed are not extensive. But had I done one more trial shoe at a cost of 150 euro and a few weeks time, I probably wouldn't need to do this.
 
Last edited:

Patrick1053

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A few notes on my St. Crispin's fitting experiences in case they'll help anyone going through the process. I had purchased a number of pairs of St. Crispin's shoes in with fit adjustments to standard lasts but ultimately decided I was unhappy with the fit and decided to try a personal last. Zach who represented St. Crispin's in the US for a time had measured my foot and had sent the measurements to Phillip, but I didn't follow up until last year. We worked from those measurements and pictures I sent as well as observations I offered Phillip about the way the shoes with fit adjustments actually fit my foot. The first trial pair was an improvement over my RTW shoes with fit adjustments but needed further improvement. Adjustments to a second trial pair overshot a bit but things seemed close. We discussed some adjustments and I ordered a final pair.

The result, while okay, really speaks to DFWII comments that the foot is an extraordinarily complicated piece of architecture, so small adjustments to one aspect of a last affect others. The other observation I'd make about going from trial shoes to a final pair is that St. Crispin's are very structured shoes compared to most, so small imperfections in fit, not easily noticeable in the soft trial shoes become obvious in the final pair. It's important to pay close attention to the fit and speak up about any concerns however minor. Also, for Patrick, I wish I had done one last trial shoe to get the fit as close as possible to perfect. Note, I was doing this by email. This was all at the end of last year, so I never even thought about Zoom or Skype. I think the result would have been better if I had.

With all that said, I've been back in touch with Phillip. We're going to adjust the last and relast the shoes. I'll be doing a full measurement of my feet (with my wife's help) and also providing pictures and feedback and having a Zoom consultation with Phillip. I think the further adjustments needed are not extensive. But had I done one more trial shoe at a cost of 150 euro and a few weeks time, I probably wouldn't need to do this.
Thank you! I am awaiting Philips's answer about how to get rid of the Gaping, but I am probably gonna go for another trial shoe.
 

ryanluo23

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makes me wonder ... as much as i appreciate the art and craftsmanship of shoemaking. As each foot is so different, why haven't any shoemaker that offers personal last utilise technology like 3D modelling to obtain the exact measurement of a client's foot?

also on the other hand, wouldn't the pattern of the shoe also changes if its made out of someone's personal last. Wouldn't this give rise to a slightly different toe shape or length etc?...
 

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