St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread

[Meyboom]

Utah is a very different leather from eg Inca and Scotch grain. This is because Utah is a vegetable tanned leather stuffed with lots of oils. It is buttery soft and develops a light patina over time. Inca, Scotch etc are chrome tanned leathers with a grain print. As @BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes pointed out these leathers hardly develop any patina. One could say that these chrome tanned leathers are more hard-wearing but it is my experience that Utah also holds up well in bad weather conditions. Because Utah is so soft it really conforms to the shape of your foot and it also develops rolls instead of creases. In my opinion this makes it look more casual than the other leathers after some wear.

 

[ivancream]

First wear ? View attachment 1321664 View attachment 1321665 View attachment 1321666

It’s a matter of personal taste but from my point of view those SC are the GOAT.

I’m thinking in copy them just repleacing the leather for another with texture ( maybe RUS, MOU or INC... any suggestions in leather and color?).

To be honest, the change of the leather is a question of money plus I recently bought a wonderfull pair of nattys of other maker.

 

[djdanniedee]

I'm a bit defensive about EB shoes as they're still 1 of my all time favs and they were the first to introduce me to the Norvegese welt. While i do think STC does a cleaner job of the Norvegese, they only have the straight stitch norvegese and also the goyser stitch. EB has the chained Norvegese which is my fav, and something that Zonkey Boot also does on their wholecut boots.

I agree they are far superior at producing it. I am talking about the appearance of that Norvegese welt. You don't typically see it on the showcased headliner StCs. EB loves showing theirs on every other shoe.

I would even venture to guess if you launched each of their corresponding websites, StC does not include it while EB does. StC probably would only demonstrate it if you went under their boot section.

 

[BomTrady]

Definitely not mines, although I own the following models & colors:

The 575 & 633, I have the brown Russian Grain leather. Yes same leather.

The 522 and 105, in black.

The 539 loafer, in a dark brown.

The 524, snuff suede.

Unfortunately, I do not have the courage to purchase other colors other than my standard browns and Black's haha*. One day perhaps. I also think my biggest fear is that I'll fall out of love with other colors and at this price point, it would not be prudent.

So, I'm happy salivating over other's shoes. ?

*I don't mind experimenting with other colors with lower priced shoes*

Hahahaha...Folly or trailblazing? Only time will tell!

 

[BomTrady]

Hahahaha...Folly or trailblazing? Only time will tell! View attachment 1363805

These are fav boots...even over EG Galways!

 

[djdanniedee]

those are FIRE!!!

I find this style is so flattering no matter the maker. Whether it's STC, EB or Vass making this boot (each having a different location where the sides overlap).

These are fav boots...even over EG Galways! View attachment 1363806

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Utah is a very different leather from eg Inca and Scotch grain. This is because Utah is a vegetable tanned leather stuffed with lots of oils. It is buttery soft and develops a light patina over time. Inca, Scotch etc are chrome tanned leathers with a grain print. As @BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes pointed out these leathers hardly develop any patina. One could say that these chrome tanned leathers are more hard-wearing but it is my experience that Utah also holds up well in bad weather conditions. Because Utah is so soft it really conforms to the shape of your foot and it also develops rolls instead of creases. In my opinion this makes it look more casual than the other leathers after some wear.

Well @Meyboom answered the Utah question. It is really a low maintenance leather that looks great. It is indeed slightly more casual than the Inca or an Alpine (StC calls their Alpine something else though).

I'm a bit defensive about EB shoes as they're still 1 of my all time favs and they were the first to introduce me to the Norvegese welt. While i do think STC does a cleaner job of the Norvegese, they only have the straight stitch norvegese and also the goyser stitch. EB has the chained Norvegese which is my fav, and something that Zonkey Boot also does on their wholecut boots.

Enzo Bonafe makes fantastic shoes!! I would never disparage their good name. At their price point and overall consistency and quality, they make my top 10 without question.

StC's does make a slightly better shoe. Let's not forget though, the StCs are triple the price for marginally superior leather and only slightly better construction (finishing & détails not "build").

 

[BomTrady]

those are FIRE!!!

I find this style is so flattering no matter the maker. Whether it's STC, EB or Vass making this boot (each having a different location where the sides overlap).

I completely agree with you. It’s a great looking boot design. For me it hearkens back to these 19 Century boots (circa 1885). Apparently two-tone ankle boots were all the rage back then.

 

[tdes81]

Go figure I saw those boots and was thinking Enzo Bonafe, since they love putting a Norvegese welt on everything.

I love me some Enzo but you're not going to see a toe like that from EB.

 

[BomTrady]

I love me some Enzo but you're not going to see a toe like that from EB.

Hahaha...you likely should view that toe box in the context of the times it was created, I think. I know absolutely nothing about the history of shoes the way many of you do, but it probably was seen as conservative and commissioned by a relatively wealthy person, although I imagine handmade shoes were more common for many people than today. Currently, absent cowboy boots maybe, these pointy toes are a bit flamboyant.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

I love me some Enzo but you're not going to see a toe like that from EB.

Definitely would not see it.

EB would probably have to hire a dedicated design/last maker. Someone outside of the family (akin to EG bringing in Gaziano) for them to step up their styling range.

 

[Mallaig]

I've got a call scheduled for tomorrow morning with Phillip Car. Expect to get some input from him too.

Talked with Phillip this morning. Introduced him to zoom.

Spent most of the call discussing the last. I bought some StC off ebay a couple months back. These were also made on a custom last so we used that as a reference point (apparently an ex employee of Armory). I'll be selling these on once I get my own shoes.

We are going to start with a trial shoe. Phillip recommended we use an Oxford style so we are going to use 522. Thanks to @BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes for that recommendation.

I'll update as we progress.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Talked with Phillip this morning. Introduced him to zoom.

Spent most of the call discussing the last. I bought some StC off ebay a couple months back. These were also made on a custom last so we used that as a reference point (apparently an ex employee of Armory). I'll be selling these on once I get my own shoes.

We are going to start with a trial shoe. Phillip recommended we use an Oxford style so we are going to use 522. Thanks to @BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes for that recommendation.

I'll update as we progress.

Glad I could be of assistance. Phillip really is fantastic. He provides insightful information, and really wants his customers to receive the best possible fit so they purchase the best possible shoe.

The 522 is their "standard" sizing model. From that model you can progress either towards the loafer or derby/boot side. Speaking of, StC does not allow the loafer to be your first purchase due to the sizing issues that can potentially occur.

Hindsight being 20/20, I wish I would have done a custom last. Especially after my 3rd purchase, which is when I bought two pairs of shoes simultaneously. Although in my defense, I did not purchase directly from them until I picked up my loafer (shoe purchase number 5..I have 6 total). Everything to that point had been procured through one of their retailers.

I feel like multiple orders of their shoes really should entail a custom last. As it turned out, we added pieces to the standard last which really improved the fit. You are in better standing and smarter than I was with the custom last.

Definitely let us know how it goes and what leathers and colors you choose!! Don't be a coward like me. Choose some color ?.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

*I don't mind experimenting with other colors with lower priced shoes*

I'm a bit defensive about EB shoes as they're still 1 of my all time favs

Thinking about what I referenced previously, @djdanniedee with EB, and @BomTrady...

I did spread my sartorial wings, as it pertains to color. I made up a pair of dark green Bonafes in a loafer with a gold horsebit a few months ago (look like Gucci loafers). Considering the boys over at Skoaktiebolaget said it was a huge hit with many inquiries (some even copied the idea in other colors), those green loafers were more trailblazers than folly?.

 

[BomTrady]

Talked with Phillip this morning. Introduced him to zoom.

Spent most of the call discussing the last. I bought some StC off ebay a couple months back. These were also made on a custom last so we used that as a reference point (apparently an ex employee of Armory). I'll be selling these on once I get my own shoes.

We are going to start with a trial shoe. Phillip recommended we use an Oxford style so we are going to use 522. Thanks to @BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes for that recommendation.

I'll update as we progress.

This will be interesting. Thank you for inviting us on this journey. I m looking forward to it.