Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread.

[therattler]

thanks dudes. the pic doesn't do that stand collar coat justice. but thats one of my go to work looks. love the black sweater, does anyone have the other breton sweater? the one with the smaller stripes and details on the shoulder? if its worth grabbing, that might be one of my next PC buys.

 

[PDyngbo]

What do you guys think Hedi's departure will do for the resale market?

Best,

 

[jwoowoo]



thanks dudes. the pic doesn't do that stand collar coat justice. but thats one of my go to work looks. love the black sweater, does anyone have the other breton sweater? the one with the smaller stripes and details on the shoulder? if its worth grabbing, that might be one of my next PC buys.

Stand collar looks good. I've been looking for 1 in a sz 44 with no luck

For the other PC sweater, I have it. Its thicker than most sweaters and is not scratchy at all. It fits 1 size bigger though. Most slp sweater I am a small and I had to go with an XS in the PC breton strip sweater.

 

[scanner]

I've heard from a friend interning in YSL PR that they are indeed rebranding back to the classic YSL and are desperately trying to work with a number of ad and design agencies to pull off a modern YSL branding. Apparently the higher ups were so pissed off at Hedi for SS16 (I imagine none of them were comfortable pulling it off) that they didn't even try to negotiate with him, but that the real reason they did not re-negotiate is due to the Couture clients being unhappy with Hedi's Couture and especially a lot of big A-List red carpet celebrities that were very uncomfortable in his designs that they ended up going with another house, apparently this is where Vaccarello came into play - due to his relationship with many of the A-Listers the house was trying to persuade.

My guess is YSL will continue to be a success in that it will almost become the new Balmain.

 

[cyc wid it]

Women's stuff in general hasn't been much of a priority with Hedi at the helm.

 

[scanner]

True, and I always found it weird that the prices were sometimes up to twice as much as the Mens. On top of that womens has a huge selection and quantity online, but the boutiques always seemed to carry less than mens.

 

[therattler]

very interesting. the funny thing is that the menswear market is the biggest grower for luxury - aren't men buying more than women generally these days? i think a stupid bain or mckinsey newsletter landed on my desk recently with that in it. sounds like a bunch of conservative directors were/are offended with the new world. who gives a **** what couture clients prefer? do they want a brand that barely breaks even? its always interesting when so-called business decisions are not at all that.

reverting back to ysl is pathetic. but rebranding a modern ysl is a joke - obviously it's one of the most iconic logos of all time.

i did hear that there will be a mens 'cruise' collection coming out as early as next month which is not exactly the palladium stuff. it was shown to buyers during paris fashion week, says a buyer friend of mine from matches. some retailers aren't happy because they spent a large portion of their budget on it, and then had to scramble to buy some of the palladium stuff.

_______________________

@scanner good call on the balmain thing. that and i bet critics will absolutely love it.

 

[cyc wid it]

While menswear is a category of growth I would imagine that women are still the core customer base and you can't afford to alienate/ignore them (like Hedi did at SLP essentially). The women's stuff he put out was not very accessible or forgiving. It was also a pretty dramatic departure from what longstanding YSL women customers expect.

 

[harlemriver]

very interesting. the funny thing is that the menswear market is the biggest grower for luxury - aren't men buying more than women generally these days? i think a stupid bain or mckinsey newsletter landed on my desk recently with that in it. sounds like a bunch of conservative directors were/are offended with the new world. who gives a **** what couture clients prefer? do they want a brand that barely breaks even? its always interesting when so-called business decisions are not at all that.

reverting back to ysl is pathetic. but rebranding a modern ysl is a joke - thats one of the most iconic logos of all time. good luck.

i did hear that there will be a mens 'cruise' collection coming out as early as next month which is not exactly the palladium stuff. it was shown to buyers during paris fashion week, says a buyer friend of mine from matches. some retailers aren't happy because they spent a large portion of their budget on it, and then had to scramble to buy some of the palladium stuff.

The menswear market is growing at a slighter greater percentage clip than women's, but the women's luxury sector far exceeds men's in terms of size. i.e. you can still make more money selling to women (in general) because there are more women shopping and buying more frequently.

The frustrations of the guard at YSL are palpable with Slimane. Let's face it - it is a French house. It cannot be fully realized from LA, which is thousands of miles away from the ateliers and factories. It's fine if Slimane wanted to split his time there, but to try to permanently move the shows and studios there would not be the best decision.

I am not certain how much couture clients were complaining because YSL stopped real courture quite some time ago. Yes, the house was doing some one-offs with Slimane, but they have not really fully re-entered. I can see them complaining if they wanted to purchase and Slimane declined them or there was nothing they coveted for sale as Slimane's designs do not translate well to couture. He is not a couturier - he lacks the skill, sense for color, and imagination. It is surprising that upper management would even care about these complaints considering the incredible growth rate. What they would care about is the missed opportunities in women's rtw, which was very limited under Slimane. I would also venture to guess that some buyer's remorse could accompany buyers of his women's rtw (excluding the smoking jackets) - "I could have got this at Topshop... I am over this aesthetic already... This is something that I really don't find myself wearing often..."

Where Slimane excels is at is menswear and updating women's bags and shoes - that's what he should have been responsible for. Couture and perhaps women's rtw should be directed by someone else. However, that would have been an arrangement that he would not have agreed to.

Slimane did some great things: permanent collection, men's boots, sneakers, women's bags, fun rtw, but there is also much room to grow. As YSL is not a private company, they probably could only tolerate only so much insubordination and demands. It becomes difficult to fully comprehend the limitations that exist for a publicly traded company that happens to have many familial shareholders.

 

[SirGrotius]

Great posts!!

 

[Jbidwal]

Interesting stuff as far as what happened and the changes. I'm personally not going to write off the brand if it still continues to put out things that fit my style. I personally liked this season more than I expected too. It fits more of what I wear mostly now.

On a side note, picked up the patch camo jacket. The patches aren't too bad in person. Still prefer last years but too late for that

 

[Symphony]

So for the past 4 days, I've been trying to get some Tobacco or Nut suede harness boots in 44, 44.5, or 45 (I'm a US 12 and I hear I should size down). Let's see:

1st guy bails entirely after I already sell everything to get the money necessary.

2nd guy sold his pair

3rd guy has been unresponsive

4th guy wants $1050 (I'm looking for used ones preferably and don't wanna pay over $900)

5th guy wants me to pay him $900, but to send as a gift. I don't care how legit people say he is, I'm not comfortable gifting someone $900. He claims that it's because he wants to pay lower taxes and import fees or whatever, but he started to act like an asshole when I told him I'm truly not comfortable gifting such a large amount of money to someone I don't know.

Is there anywhere else I could possibly try to get the shoes? I don't really care the season.

 

[cyc wid it]

3 options:

1. If you're not comfortable gifting, tell him you'll pay an extra 4% and assume any customs fees incurred.
2. Save more and pay retail to avoid dealing secondary market issues.
3. Keep waiting for a pair that fits your criteria to turn up. Try again.

 

[Jbidwal]



So for the past 4 days, I've been trying to get some Tobacco or Nut suede harness boots in 44, 44.5, or 45 (I'm a US 12 and I hear I should size down). Let's see:

1st guy bails entirely after I already sell everything to get the money necessary.

2nd guy sold his pair

3rd guy has been unresponsive

4th guy wants $1050 (I'm looking for used ones preferably and don't wanna pay over $900)

5th guy wants me to pay him $900, but to send as a gift. I don't care how legit people say he is, I'm not comfortable gifting someone $900. He claims that it's because he wants to pay lower taxes and import fees or whatever, but he started to act like an asshole when I told him I'm truly not comfortable gifting such a large amount of money to someone I don't know.

Is there anywhere else I could possibly try to get the shoes? I don't really care the season.

http://www.mientus.com/de/saint-laurent-boots-wayatt-40-harness-1.html

Get them from there maybe. After conversion cheaper than USA retail and they are new

 

[therattler]

you could proxy from someone in the eu?