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AriGold

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Hedi Slimane is back now and Saint Laurent Paris has launched:

Love the new collection, especially the jackets.

http://www.ysl.com/en_US/shop-products/Men/Ready-To-Wear

313504_Y5HAD_1000_A-ysl-saint-laurent-paris-men-motorcycle-jacket-in-black-leather-450x564.jpg



MIJ Denim:

315391_YUO68_4140_A-ysl-saint-laurent-paris-men-low-waisted-slim-jean-in-navy-blue-denim-450x564.jpg



313760_YUR03_1093_A-ysl-saint-laurent-paris-men-single-breasted-1-button-jacket-in-black-blue-textured-polyester-jacquard-450x564.jpg
 

rach2jlc

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Interesting, but want to see more. At first glance, I'm not thrilled with the logo, and feel like the items, as lovely as they are, look like what he did at Dior. What made the original Hedi YSL back in 2000/01 so interesting was how it fused the YSL creativity with a new aesthetic that felt light years ahead. Just seeing these items, it feels like Hedi at Dior in 2003 or 2004... meaning 8-9 years ago.

BUT, I will follow this with interest, though I question (as I did back in 2008) whether Hedi has in him real creative genius or just a single aesthetic that happened to hit at just the right time.

I didn't see growth or development from him 2000-2008 like I would have wanted given how much I loved what he did in the beginning, and at this first glance I don't see that his time away from fashion has taught him much.
 
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AriGold

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i guess it feels more MMM than Hedi at this point.
 

rach2jlc

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edit; Looking at it longer, okay, I HATE the logo. "Yves Saint Laurent" has a wonderful ring that "Saint Laurent Paris" just lacks. Not to mention that if you get rid of the interlocking YSL, you lose one of the most beautiful and recognizable logos in history.
 
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hendrix

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i guess it feels more MMM than Hedi at this point.


It doesn't feel like Margiela at all, IMO.


I would wear the tux blazer, but tbh Lanvin has been updating this look for years since DH and frankly there's nothing interesting to see here.
 
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AriGold

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be content hendrix.
 

andrewgreg

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Not to mention that if you get rid of the interlocking YSL, you lose one of the most beautiful and recognizable logos in history.
 

dfagdfsh

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painfully boring, reads like a simmered down version of lanvin with a dash of balmain - i think the collarless polos are a pretty much a direct rip, no? it's like a collection of the dullest possible basics, but at inflated designer prices. shoes look .. ok, and i don't get the jewelry at all.
 

rach2jlc

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be content hendrix.


Are the garments in stores yet? There's one near me, so I may go this weekend or next week when I have time just to see them in person. I'll post a review if/when I do.

it's like a collection of the dullest possible basics


It's interesting to compare this Pilati's first YSL season post Tom Ford in 2005. He also did a small capsule, but it was mostly YSL classics tweaked with the relaxed/romantic Pilati vibe. It worked really well, IMHO, and set the stage for what he'd do next.

The interesting thing about it was YSL was still relatively new to menswear history, so there really was no such thing as "YSL Classics" in menswear, but Pilati managed to blend his own ideas with the DNA of the brand's heritage in such a way that it "felt" very much like what a YSL menswear collection should look like.

I think I would have been more excited to see something like that this time, a fusing of Hedi/YSL and stage-setting for what we'd see next. Again, it's far too early, but still I don't really know what I"m supposed to be seeing here, though I did with that first Pilati season.
 
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Fuuma

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I'll probably check out the main Paris boutique this weekend if I can work the motivation to go.

It doesn't look like Lanvin or MMM; Lanvin tuxes weren't slim and they were intentionally made less shiny or even washed out. As for MMM, it has been about wearing suit jackets with jeans since the start of the men's line but def not like that, think sorta akward tux in white or brown, some white straight jeans, an open tux shirt and maybe painted boots, all of this worn by a really tall, masculine dude with a beard and long hair.
 

impolyt_one

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Kind of disappointed at the lack of detailing (and then the ****** frivolous detailing like the zippers on the tees and pullovers) on most of the SLP stuff. Looks like lame basics, this **** could be APC but it costs 5x as much.
 

darkknight

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In an interview in the Guardian, former designer and now photographer Hedi Slimane said, “I’m always suspicious of people who change too many times. I’ve always been very repetitive. Which was a problem, because with seasons people always want, ‘OK, what’s new?’ But the truth is, nothing is new.”
 

geijutsu

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meh, pretty boring, as it's been said it lacks detail.

The hoodies are nice though, and few of the shoes.
 
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wogbog

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I dunno much about Hedi Slimane or major fashion labels, wasn't into fashion at the time so I just hear him talked about like a legend 'round these parts, and the store + press photos aren't ideal for judging, but my impression was "simple, dark, cool". As far as details go, some were neat (the subtle leopard print on the wool coat, the leather band collar polos) and some were silly (zippers on the neck of sweaters).
 

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