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Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by AriGold, Oct 4, 2012.

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  1. Mesta

    Mesta Senior member

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    Dude, there's leather on it.
    Navy is already sold out though.
    lol.
     
  2. NaTionS

    NaTionS Senior member

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    What do those zips up by the neck do? Does the hood come off?
     
  3. teenagelightning

    teenagelightning Senior member

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    the hood zips off and then the body zips off and then the wearer's right to buy his own clothes zips off and then all our problems are solved
     
    3 people like this.
  4. darkknight

    darkknight Senior member

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    you get a second chance to buy hedi's dior homme, but it'll cost you double :tounge:
     
  5. sq4you

    sq4you Senior member

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    This is a problem that every single designer deals with. And it is a insurmountable burden that every consumer places upon the designers.
    The struggle to remain true to one's roots while progressing. The two are essentially a juxtaposition.

    Designers who remain faithful to their aesthetic are branded repetitive or boring.
    Hedi, Neil Barrett, Dsquared, Pilati, Bailey, Decarnin, Thom Browne, Yohji, KVA, BoO, etc

    Designers who progress and experiment lose their appeal because they "dont deliver the same quality as they used to."
    Raf, Rick, Ossendrijver, Dries, Rei Kawakubo, Damir is being accused already because he is straying away from bedouin, etc

    The odd ones out are the ones whose careers are abruptly cut short for one reason or another. Hedi could fall into this category but I'd say it's more guys like Margiela and Alexander McQueen.

    It's impossible to cater to both camps of customer....like liberals vs conservatives.

    I don't think we should bash Hedi if he simply replicates everything he did for Dior but at YSL. It's an awesome aesthetic and I think he is creative enough to consistently put out new collections that adhere to his vision but with subtle variations. Expecting a completely new, fresh and modern idea from Hedi would be as unfair as has been expected of Jil. There is a reason newcomers have a huge advantage when entering any industry/field; they offer a fresh perspective which "by-gone" individuals simply can't deliver.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2012
  6. rach2jlc

    rach2jlc Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Interesting post! But, I disagree, if for no other reason than because Hedi is at YSL, which (like Eudora Welty speaking of Faulkner) must be like "living next door to a mountain." Obviously, that raises the stakes for what he does, and about surprising innovation... because YSL himself managed somehow to do all the things you describe above as being impossible for nearly three decades.

    In any case, your point is quite apt, and also many times we've all discussed the limitations inherent in menswear that are not there for womenswear (where YSL himself made his reputation). That being said, I still want... expect... demand?... to see more than this. For $5500, I want more than just a "cool" jacket.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2012
  7. sq4you

    sq4you Senior member

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    I wouldn't say it's impossible. It's just EXTREMELY difficult. I think Alexander McQueen is probably one who had this genius....unfortunately the line between genius and insanity is very fine and often leads to self-destructive behaviour (musicians seem to suffer from this a lot).

    With regards to the pricing and the $5k+ leather jackets....this is not Hedi's fault. This is likely YSLs financial department suffering from the same mental disorder that currently afflicts Givenchy.
    Hype is the primary catalyst of financial fuel and YSL just fired up 8 cylinders.

    But yes, I wouldnt pay that much for any of those jackets. Id rather get a CCP or buy an og hedi piece from one of those rip off guys on ebay.
     
  8. rach2jlc

    rach2jlc Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It seems to afflict every brand from watchmakers to parfumeries to bagmakers. I don't think there is a single one out there whose prices today aren't drastically higher than just a few years ago, with little to no changes in quality of manufacture.

    Anyway, we're living in a pretty interesting time, fashion wise... I'm curious how in twenty years we'll look back on all the explosion and all the hype. I've said it many times, but if you look at the state of things in 1995 vs. today, it's like the dark ages vs. some cybernetic technofuture. Where things will go from here (or, more likely, what sort of more moderate baseline they'll settle down to) is going to be fascinating.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2012
  9. AriGold

    AriGold Senior member

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    I think it's just inflation :slayer:

    Print more monay benanke :foo:
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. sq4you

    sq4you Senior member

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    Probably less inflation and more just a recovery from the bush recession.
     
  11. rach2jlc

    rach2jlc Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    +1. I'd say it's a number of complex factors... changing demographics (including emerging markets with little fashion historical memory, a lot of cash, and a desire for brand names), increased exposure and spending on huge boutiques and adverts, greater expansion/distribution of aftermarket and sales areas (which means they can mark things down multiple times without hurting their bottom line), increased influence of "private equity" firms or non-fashion related conglomerates owning the brands, etc.

    I'd say inflation has little or nothing to do with it; many of these items are nearly twice now what they were a few years ago (check out some of the watch threads in MC and how prices have gone up.) Likewise if you happen to find an LV, Chanel, or Hermes catalogue or pricelist from previous seasons.

    Overall, it's pretty fascinating and I wonder if any actual studies or investigations have been done into it, beyond just "OMG things are so expensive!"
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  12. colabear

    colabear Senior member

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    wow, some of the $12k RTW dresses are already sold out. This looks very plain to me. Is it because it's Hedi's first collection? I think if he turns YSL flavor similar to what he did with Dior men, it will not be good. I don't see YSL customers in their 40s, 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s, 90s would want to look like rockstars.
     
  13. rach2jlc

    rach2jlc Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Maybe it's just :tinfoil: but I wonder sometimes if they don't mark some things "sold out" on purpose to give the appearance of hype/demand. Obviously, I have no idea, but I can't really see how, where, or why people buy $12k items online. Folks in the market for that go to the boutiques, where they have established relationships with the sales associates. Kids with $$$ in the rural provinces who want "ZOMG YSL" buy logo-besmirched tshirts online... but not couture or $12k items.

    p.s. love the Thiebaud!

    p.p.s. as for "ysl customers in the 40's-90's", honestly I don't think there are any. Those who were have long since moved on, or gone to bespoke. Since YSl himself shut down the couture line, and Gucci Group bought the brand, the old guard customers stopped paying attention. TF introduced YSl to an entirely new audience, cultivated further by Pilati. Hedi's job is to keep them interested before their short attention spans move on to whatever else there is out there (and there's a LOT out there); hype and provenance will get you one, maybe two seasons... but beyond that, he'll have to do something else or people aren't going to hang around.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  14. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

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    it's saying sold out at first but it really means not yet available. they're slowly posting stuff. i think some of it really did sell out though. they're trying to manufacture hype i think.
     
  15. SirGrotius

    SirGrotius Senior member

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    I was perusing the site and I really like some of the denim, especially the black jeans...think they're raw, MIJ. The price isn't bad like $400 something.

    The only problem is I wonder about the sizing. I wear 28 in Dior raw denim, 17.5cm cut. The SLPs are 16cm...I haven't worn something which such a small leg opening. Do others have experience with such a cut? I'm thinking as a runner I might not be able to pull them off.
     
  16. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

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    Lol they're 16cm? Yikes. I would guess true to size since YSL has some pretty solid production facilities but there's no way to know for sure.
     
  17. steviecakes

    steviecakes Senior member

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    My APC Petit Standards have a 16cm leg opening. They're a size 25 and fit similarly to DH 17.5cm in 27. I don't find the leg opening to be too small but I have tiny calves though so take that with a grain of salt.
     
  18. SirGrotius

    SirGrotius Senior member

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    That's pretty amazing that you wear size 25 PS. Karl Lagerfeld would be jealous (as am I).
     
  19. brad-t

    brad-t Senior member

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    I don't get how these relate. "True to size" is a design decision, not a manufacturing variance.
     
  20. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

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    Well, you're half right. It can be either.
     

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