Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread

[StanleyVanBuren]

Before it was 5/8" on collar and 1/2" on sleeve length, with no shrinkage adjustments applied for most dress shirt fabrics. So these Standard Allowances are lower, but we are also compensating all shirts for shrinkage in these dimensions now. So for most dress shirt fabrics, and shirt sizes in the 16 collar, 35 sleeve length range you will get another 0.2" or so added for shrinkage adjustment and end up more or less where you were before.

So I tried just keeping my sleeve length the same but ended up with a shirt that had sleeves that were way too short after just one wash. Going from 0.5" extra to 0.3" extra seems to have made a noticeable difference that wasn't accounted for by shrinkage compensation.

Looks like I am going to bump my sleeve length up 0.2" to compensate for the change. It's unfortunate that I had to order a shirt and return it to learn this.

 

[wilcthree]

Just received a shirt from Proper Cloth with Soft Roma Button Down Collar in Miles 120s Light Blue Broadcloth. Having washed, ironed, and worn it over the last day or so, a couple of observations:

- Ordering process was seamless, quick, and not at all complicated.

- Fit is good. Really good for a first go. Little needs to be done in this area except perhaps a slight adjustment on the sleeves, because sometimes I like to wear my shirts unbuttoned at the wrist and want them to stay in place when I do this.

Other things:
- The fabric beneath the collar button and first button on chest seems to bump in or out, and not lay/stand smoothly from collar button to first button. The fabric appears to collapse in on itself in this area, go off to the side, or generally looks inelegant. I tend to wear the first buttons of my button-down collar shirts open with a sportcoat, so I like this area of my shirts to look smooth. Wondering if this has something to do with the structure of the collar. I also want to experiment with moving the first chest button closer to the collar button, as reflected in the measurements of an Italian button-down collar shirt from another competitor I own. I'm also considering if I should pursue a lightly fused interlining should I revisit this collar. I also noticed that the backside of the shirt collar gets an impression from where my sportcoat collar sits around the shirt when worn. I've never experienced this with any other shirt I've owned, so that is a pretty interesting phenomenon. Maybe this all has something to do with the fabric of the shirt. Wondering how others have found this collar and navigated it.

 

[Iskander]

Just received a shirt from Proper Cloth with Soft Roma Button Down Collar in Miles 120s Light Blue Broadcloth. Having washed, ironed, and worn it over the last day or so, a couple of observations:

- Ordering process was seamless, quick, and not at all complicated.

- Fit is good. Really good for a first go. Little needs to be done in this area except perhaps a slight adjustment on the sleeves, because sometimes I like to wear my shirts unbuttoned at the wrist and want them to stay in place when I do this.

Other things:
- The fabric beneath the collar button and first button on chest seems to bump in or out, and not lay/stand smoothly from collar button to first button. The fabric appears to collapse in on itself in this area, go off to the side, or generally looks inelegant. I tend to wear the first buttons of my button-down collar shirts open with a sportcoat, so I like this area of my shirts to look smooth. Wondering if this has something to do with the structure of the collar. I also want to experiment with moving the first chest button closer to the collar button, as reflected in the measurements of an Italian button-down collar shirt from another competitor I own. I'm also considering if I should pursue a lightly fused interlining should I revisit this collar. I also noticed that the backside of the shirt collar gets an impression from where my sportcoat collar sits around the shirt when worn. I've never experienced this with any other shirt I've owned, so that is a pretty interesting phenomenon. Maybe this all has something to do with the fabric of the shirt. Wondering how others have found this collar and navigated it. View attachment 1970299 View attachment 1970301

I had the exact same issue with the one PC shirt I bought (and this was some years ago). Mine was a chambray cloth. I never ordered another because I couldn't figure out what inputs to use to fix the issue.

 

[carterneeld]

Anyone else having shipping issues? I had a package leave the factory in Vietnam on May 29 and then it's just kind of gone dark. No updates, no nothing.

I emailed Proper Cloth but haven't heard back yet so thought maybe I'd crowdsource info from StyleForum since information here seems to be more accurate anyway.

 

[Simon Chambers]

Anyone else having shipping issues? I had a package leave the factory in Vietnam on May 29 and then it's just kind of gone dark. No updates, no nothing.

I emailed Proper Cloth but haven't heard back yet so thought maybe I'd crowdsource info from StyleForum since information here seems to be more accurate anyway.

Hopefully your order shows up soon! I placed an order on May 23, but it's still showing as being made.

 

[Contango]

My last order (to Australia) arrived well ahead of the expected date range, coming via HK and Singapore, and before the fabric swatches I ordered at the same time. Of course the first of those swatches I decided to order as a shirt was discontinued in the meantime 🤦‍♂️

 

[Jamesbond1]

Mine arrived 1 day prior as Fed Ex stated. It was a 2 week turnaround from the time the shirts were ordered till they were on the door step.

 

[dapperclassic]

Proper Cloth custom jeans in a 14oz Japanese mid indigo denim, 12” front rise.

 

[nachobarro]

Morning everyone!

I just received a MTM pink striped oxford, it's my first time ordering from Proper Cloth, and I would like some advice how can I improve the fit of the OCBD:

I'm looking for a relaxed and versatile fit, mostly to wear untucked and without a tie.

Sleeve length is good, but I think that the arm width looks a bit to narrow in comparison to the body and the midchest is also making it a churved shape that I'm not sure about it.

This are the measurements:

Thank you and have a nice day

Ignacio

 

[Cidermonk]

Morning everyone!

I just received a MTM pink striped oxford, it's my first time ordering from Proper Cloth, and I would like some advice how can I improve the fit of the OCBD:

View attachment 1971911
View attachment 1971913
View attachment 1971915

I'm looking for a relaxed and versatile fit, mostly to wear untucked and without a tie.

Sleeve length is good, but I think that the arm width looks a bit to narrow in comparison to the body and the midchest is also making it a churved shape that I'm not sure about it.

This are the measurements:

View attachment 1971917

Thank you and have a nice day

Ignacio

Right now you definitely have a very relaxed fit but I feel like you could reduce a lot of the dimensions without making the shirt less comfortable. I would reduce yoke width, reduce chest width, reduce sleeve width, reduce cuff around, not sure that you need square shoulder adjustment, and remove center box pleat

 

[cuponoodles]

Right now you definitely have a very relaxed fit but I feel like you could reduce a lot of the dimensions without making the shirt less comfortable. I would reduce yoke width, reduce chest width, reduce sleeve width, reduce cuff around, not sure that you need square shoulder adjustment, and remove center box pleat

I think this is good advice. Additionally, I know you also mentioned that you'd like to wear it untucked, but it seems a bit long as is. I think a good rule is for the bottom of the front hem to hit the bottom of your fly.

But the yoke/chest and hips seem a bit too relaxed as well.

 

[hysteria]

I just got my first shirt order from PC and I'm really perplexed.

I see the pre-wash measurements and I know they add a bit extra to the measurement syou provide to account for shrinkage, but in the shirt that I got....the chest measurement is like 2cm smaller than what I specified.

Is it common for PC just to get the measurements wrong?

It's difficult to ascertain what needs to change in the remake now because the product I received seems to deviate from the measurements I provided. Not only that, I compared some of the pre-wash dimensions in the order and the product I receive doesn't match it....

I wasn't expecting such discrepancies.

 

[Seph]

I just got my first shirt order from PC and I'm really perplexed.

I see the pre-wash measurements and I know they add a bit extra to the measurement syou provide to account for shrinkage, but in the shirt that I got....the chest measurement is like 2cm smaller than what I specified.

Is it common for PC just to get the measurements wrong?

It's difficult to ascertain what needs to change in the remake now because the product I received seems to deviate from the measurements I provided. Not only that, I compared some of the pre-wash dimensions in the order and the product I receive doesn't match it....

I wasn't expecting such discrepancies.

Shirts out of box not matching pre-wash dimensions is quite rare. Last I checked ~0.5% of shirts had some sort of quality/dimension related inquiry, and then only 25% of those inquiries were confirmed to be an actual problem.

So it is possible something was delivered wrong... just rare.

Trying to make sense of your particular situation though - I would triple check you're measuring the shirt exactly how we define the measurements, what tolerances we accept, and then work with the support team to determine the best next step.

How to Measure a Dress Shirt

Find out how to measure a dress shirt. Copy the measurements of your dress shirt exactly or adjust them to create your own custom shirt size.

propercloth.com

Accepted Sewing Tolerances for Proper Cloth Garments

Learn about the accepted sewing tolerances for garment measurements. Understand how small variations are accounted for in hand-sewn garments.

propercloth.com

 

[Seph]

Just received a shirt from Proper Cloth with Soft Roma Button Down Collar in Miles 120s Light Blue Broadcloth. Having washed, ironed, and worn it over the last day or so, a couple of observations:

- Ordering process was seamless, quick, and not at all complicated.

- Fit is good. Really good for a first go. Little needs to be done in this area except perhaps a slight adjustment on the sleeves, because sometimes I like to wear my shirts unbuttoned at the wrist and want them to stay in place when I do this.

Other things:
- The fabric beneath the collar button and first button on chest seems to bump in or out, and not lay/stand smoothly from collar button to first button. The fabric appears to collapse in on itself in this area, go off to the side, or generally looks inelegant. I tend to wear the first buttons of my button-down collar shirts open with a sportcoat, so I like this area of my shirts to look smooth. Wondering if this has something to do with the structure of the collar. I also want to experiment with moving the first chest button closer to the collar button, as reflected in the measurements of an Italian button-down collar shirt from another competitor I own. I'm also considering if I should pursue a lightly fused interlining should I revisit this collar. I also noticed that the backside of the shirt collar gets an impression from where my sportcoat collar sits around the shirt when worn. I've never experienced this with any other shirt I've owned, so that is a pretty interesting phenomenon. Maybe this all has something to do with the fabric of the shirt. Wondering how others have found this collar and navigated it. View attachment 1970299 View attachment 1970301

This extra fabric between collar button and first button is easily resolved with a Neck Forward posture adjustment.

 

[Seph]

Just received my first suit from PC (Loro Piana in Navy). Happy with the fit and overall quality but wow is it wrinkled to oblivion. I have gotten a few jackets that were mildly out of shape when received which resolved with hanging and a couple wears, but this is much worse.

Any recommendations on the best way to resolve the deformities? I'm reading that steaming is bad, hanging in shower is bad, taking to dry cleaner is bad... Should I just go get it pressed?

Sometimes the best thing to do is just wait. Let it hang on a hanger unbuttoned for a few days and it will usually go back to it's intended shape.

We have been exploring ways to improve the packaging of jackets to reduce this. Have some more things coming in the coming months.