Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Leaves]

Im not looking for a fit like the guy in the fawn jacket. I just don't see the appeal. The garments are always slightly more wrinkled at a Trunk Show. I have actually not worn the garment after the fitting. I always wear the item 4-5 times before sending any feedback or asking for additional tweaks. Still, would never go for that extremely fitted, athletic look. I prefer comfort and Kotaro knows this.

 

[sprout2]

U aint a real man unless u got this

 

[dieworkwear]

You can get a very clean back without it being super fitted. This is a drape cut.

I think the more important thing is how a jacket looks and feels in real life. Sometimes too much emphasis is put on still photos. I've seen Kotaro's work in person and it looks really good. Has a nice, youthful look to it without being too fashion forward.

 

[WillingToLearn]

Having just spent two days traveling in a suit (in and out of planes, meetings, carrying a bag, etc.) with a really clean back, I'll take functional movement every time. There has to be room to move, in the front or the back, it has to be there.

 

[dieworkwear]



Having just spent two days traveling in a suit (in and out of planes, meetings, carrying a bag, etc.) with a really clean back, I'll take functional movement every time. There has to be room to move, in the front or the back, it has to be there.

The above is a drape cut. You can see the excess fabric draped along the armholes on the back.

 

[seferphier]

That is impressive work. It's also a one piece back which makes it even more difficult to fit. Who is the maker?

 

[dieworkwear]



That is impressive work. It's also a one piece back which makes it even more difficult to fit. Who is the maker?

Steed.

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2009/01/one-piece-back.html

Another one from Jeffery D. on this forum. Slight pulling at the waist, but I assume he fitted this on himself, which is kind of like trying to cut your own hair (I imagine). Really impressive.

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2009/10/tale-of-two-cloth-merchants.html

 

[sugarbutch]

The second link looks like a two-piece back to me. The stripes converge in the center.

 

[dieworkwear]



The second link looks like a two-piece back to me. The stripes converge in the center.

Yes, it's a two-piece back. I was just commenting on how you can get a clean back without it being super fitted.

 

[David Reeves]

Had a go at some unconstructed jackets which is a switch.

The "waterfall' shoulder was just something that happened without the padding, I suppose I could make it more of a feature with hand gathered pleats. The jacket is wool silk and linen Loro Piana "Proposte", very comfy but has a tendency to snag.

 

[David Reeves]



You can get a very clean back without it being super fitted. This is a drape cut.

I think the more important thing is how a jacket looks and feels in real life. Sometimes too much emphasis is put on still photos. I've seen Kotaro's work in person and it looks really good. Has a nice, youthful look to it without being too fashion forward.

I agree with this, and really tailoring is such a moving target when you are being very exacting. Someone's posture in the morning as opposed to the evening or maybe their waistline before or after lunch can certainly affect the look of coat.

 

[ATWright]



THinking of getting some metal strips as weights in pants cuffs to weigh them down ,in particular when standing up from seated position. Anyone done this before? (Besides ancient tailors of old)

My tailor once told me about a client of his that would place coins in his trouser cuffs to weigh them down. Apparently he was a cop, because the intention was to stop the cuffs from flapping when he span around to punch someone.

 

[lordsuperb]



My tailor once told me about a client of his that would place coins in his trouser cuffs to weigh them down. Apparently he was a cop, because the intention was to stop the cuffs from flapping when he span around to punch someone.

THinking of getting some metal strips as weights in pants cuffs to weigh them down ,in particular when standing up from seated position. Anyone done this before? (Besides ancient tailors of old)

Frank Shattuck mentioned this method on the LL a few years ago.

 

[venividivicibj]

Really hope that we can get the pictures back from this thread

 

[DouglasE]

Second fitting with Bntailor through Robin Pettersson. The trousers will be slightly wider but otherwise quite good. Fox Twist and Fox cricket flannel cloth. Three years old navy Carmina penny loafers.