Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Sreezy36]

Are the extended/padded shoulders a signifier of Pastena?

No.

Both Mario and Antonio cut close to the shoulder as a default. Generally, clients may ask for more extension in subsequent commissions.

In regards to padding, there is no shoulder padding by default. Padding can be added if specifically requested by the client. The shoulder may have an appearance of padding due to the characteristics of the cloth that was chosen by the client.

 

[twuthetiger]

2nd fitting from Solito NYC trunk show. Taking in the shoulders and waist a bit. Otherwise fit looks pretty good to me?? Fabric is some navy 320gsm twill wool fabric from his vintage pile.. it’s actually got a quite textured twill pattern to it which I liked.

 

[jonathanS]

I could be wrong, but sporty blues are very Southern Italian in terms of aesthetic. An aquatic, Mediterranean Sea, or oceanic vibe.

Yes, whereas Florentine palate likes the browns & olives. I just thought it was funny, I was talking about the Florentine colors & then max posted his latest from kotaro, in Florentine colors illustrating the point I was making

 

[Sreezy36]

Yes, whereas Florentine palate likes the browns & olives. I just thought it was funny, I was talking about the Florentine colors & then max posted his latest from kotaro, in Florentine colors illustrating the point I was making

You can really do a lot with both color palettes. Can’t go wrong with either. Imagiation and taste sold seperatly. 😂

The aquatic/Mediterranean color range brings more energy and vibrancy imo.

 

[kid1002]

Here comes my first navy suit...

 

[kid1002]

Also just commissioned for a winter jacket.

 

[clee1982]

like that fabric, who is the maker?

 

[kid1002]

like that fabric, who is the maker?

Navy suit is from VBC's 'Perennial' bunch
Checked jacket is from Cerruti's 'Oxygen Winter'

 

[jonathanS]

You can really do a lot with both color palettes. Can’t go wrong with either. Imagiation and taste sold seperatly. 😂

The aquatic/Mediterranean color range brings more energy and vibrancy imo.

I agree. That’s why I was saying there’s nothing wrong with it - just I was noting an observation. I don’t think it’s an issue, the only problem is when I ask for fabric from the vintage collections, he doesn’t have anything that I get excited about.

 

[clee1982]

Navy suit is from VBC's 'Perennial' bunch
Checked jacket is from Cerruti's 'Oxygen Winter'

I mean who is making the suit

 

[kid1002]

I mean who is making the suit

Both being made by an unknown Shanghai workshop that I've been experimenting with

 

[clee1982]

ha, I'm going to Shanghai and Hangzhou this summer for a bit (visiting in law), if you got recommendation I'm all ears... (looking for structured guys)

 

[kid1002]

ha, I'm going to Shanghai and Hangzhou this summer for a bit (visiting in law), if you got recommendation I'm all ears... (looking for structured guys)

I would argue that the sartorial circle in China is still enjoying its Neapolitan/Floritine moment... I would probably look elsewhere if you want a structured look that's also not too old fashioned

 

[Sreezy36]

I agree. That’s why I was saying there’s nothing wrong with it - just I was noting an observation. I don’t think it’s an issue, the only problem is when I ask for fabric from the vintage collections, he doesn’t have anything that I get excited about.

You honestly caught my attention with the point about the shades of blue in southern Italian tailoring. Many don’t catch on to that. It’s something that I recently picked up on. Natural landscapes, colors, and environments being reflected in tailoring.

 

[jonathanS]

You honestly caught my attention with the point about the shades of blue in southern Italian tailoring. Many don’t catch on to that. It’s something that I recently picked up on. Natural landscapes, colors, and environments being reflected in tailoring.

Yes, but, when I think of a brown or olive colored suit, I think of Florence (and it’d only right in a Florentine cut) - although, my solaro is / was Milanese, which, in my mind, looks best as Milanese. Something very agnelli about a solaro.

All London lounge agnelli fabrics, imo, should be done with a Milanese tailor to maintain the integrity / character intended of the fabric.

but I also think kotaro’s cut works better with Napoli palate than other Florentine tailors because there’s a softness to his silhouette than liverano-trained tailors don’t appear to have (I haven’t ordered from others so I can’t say for certain). It give a greater range to kotaro’s silhouette. Plus, with patterns like I mentioned above, I really appreciate not breaking up the pattern (which I’d be forced into with a napoletano tailor).

I’d venture to say satoki kawai, had a softness too. Dembech & Estes too. Unfortunately 2/3 of those Milanese tailors passed away this year & we are just halfway through march.