Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[DavidLane]

"When buying a new suit, you'll often be advised to stick to standard navy or gray. But investing in pieces that are fun to wear and feel great on is ultimately smarter than trying to build out some sort of perfect capsule wardrobe. For Lane, that meant going bold with his first purchase."


MEOW, I got grief all these years on the forum for going outside the box and not conforming to Doofus Workwear's opinions. I love wearing my purple and picnic blanket jackets.

I agree, I did the blue jacket first, but the suit was for fun. Still happy with my decision.

-DL

Fitting recognition for one of the most stylish members of the forvm!

Thank you SB. I appreciate it.

-DL

 

[taxgenius]

Just like me going with green dress shoes!

I had green oxfords and sold them. Didn’t work with any outfit.

 

[jonathanS]

Yes, but Formosa is doing the measuring and fitting. It's no different from Saville Row tailors outsourcing to jacket and trouser makers.

why not just have a tailor who specializes in trousers measure and fit? I think you answered your own initial question.

 

[jonathanS]

Ask new clients to wear or bring a tailored trouser and a jacket they have. I need to see what they have been wearing. How it looks and fits them. Then we go over what they like, don’t like or would change about the garment. I need to see it on them because it’s more accurate than verbal communication.
WILL NOT measure a client wearing jeans.

It’s not a brag, I see no point in using multiple commissions for a tailor to figure things out. If I want things a certain length or fit I show them something that’s already achieved it.

Perhaps I misunderstood. You wore the pants to see the tailor? Or you physically gave them another tailor’s work and said “copy this”

 

[jonathanS]

This is one of them. I have 2 more pairs of Corthay in green that I don’t have a picture of and one pair of G&G. Only one I have on my phone. All my greens are RtW right now.

One pair of bespoke Nicholas Templeman green suede gatorskin loafers being made at the moment. Hopefully will be finished in the next few months. View attachment 1967919

Green suede gator loafers!

If you like the patina, why not try Dan wegan? If I did British shoes & the budget permitted, that’s who I’d use.

 

[Despos]

Green suede gator loafers!

If you like the patina, why not try Dan wegan? If I did British shoes & the budget permitted, that’s who I’d use.

He's in Texas next week

 

[lordsuperb]

why not just have a tailor who specializes in trousers measure and fit? I think you answered your own initial question.

Perhaps I misunderstood. You wore the pants to see the tailor? Or you physically gave them another tailor’s work and said “copy this”

My initial question was to you and the appeal of using a separate trouser maker. I take it the pants you had made were part of a suit?

Perhaps we are at different stages of our bespoke journey. Formosa traveled to DC with NMWA and I had a few things made. No other Italian tailor was traveling to the area at that time. After wrapping things up in DC they primarily held trunk shows in NYC.

Maybe it’s just me but I’m over the bespoke fairytale. It takes time and money to get that **** right. I handed Formosa a pair of trousers and told him to copy so I did not have to make multiple trips to nyc. I see no point in trying multiple tailors or having a coat and trouser maker. Formosa and Steed were my go to and they make nice things. If anything I noticed Formosa had some kinks to work out on the trousers and Steed had some kinks to work out in their jacket.

I’m a consultant and about solutions; I’m agile baby.

 

[jonathanS]

My initial question was to you and the appeal of using a separate trouser maker. I take it the pants you had made were part of a suit

Yes they were part of a suit. The initial trousers that came with the suit don’t fit in the quads. I asked them about it and their solution was go on a diet, if you must know.

Perhaps we are at different stages of our bespoke journey. Formosa traveled to DC with NMWA and I had a few things made. No other Italian tailor was traveling to the area at that time. After wrapping things up in DC they primarily held trunk shows in NYC.

Now imagine if you had a trousermaker who had your pattern down. Why hassle with Formosa. Moreover, Formosa a proper trousermaker would get it right on the first try. Let’s say Formosa traveled with a trouser maker, so it’s all one stop.

It’s the same reason you go to a shirtmaker to make a shirt, not a tailor. Sure, could a tailor fit? Maybe. But it’ll be better if you have the same person making the shirt cutting and fitting.

I handed Formosa a pair of trousers and told him to copy so I did not have to make multiple trips to nyc

Understood

 

[Texasmade]

Green suede gator loafers!

If you like the patina, why not try Dan wegan? If I did British shoes & the budget permitted, that’s who I’d use.

I've already started doing bespoke with Nicholas and Corthay while having 2 completed JLP shoes with another pair on the way. I don't want to end up like Kirby Allison using every maker available.

 

[JohnMRobie]

I don't want to end up like @Crispyj using every maker available.

FTFY

 

[lordsuperb]

Yes they were part of a suit. The initial trousers that came with the suit don’t fit in the quads. I asked them about it and their solution was go on a diet, if you must know.



Now imagine if you had a trousermaker who had your pattern down. Why hassle with Formosa. Moreover, Formosa a proper trousermaker would get it right on the first try. Let’s say Formosa traveled with a trouser maker, so it’s all one stop.

It’s the same reason you go to a shirtmaker to make a shirt, not a tailor. Sure, could a tailor fit? Maybe. But it’ll be better if you have the same person making the shirt cutting and fitting.




Understood

….

 

[lordsuperb]

FTFY

 

[The_Schmidt]

Cool story but Formosa charged me $550 for trousers. I know a good deal when I see one.

No idea what typical prices are in the US, but that sounds like a fantastic deal.

As for the other part of the discussion, I am simply too lazy/stubborn to try experimenting around finding the new hot tailor for me if I am sufficiently happy with my current one.

 

[jonathanS]

Cool story but Formosa charged me $550 for trousers. I know a good deal when I see one.

I’m not going to go back and forth with you on the ethics of a tailor copying another tailors work. But there are cheaper options if you want to do that. I personally consider it unethical.

I've already started doing bespoke with Nicholas and Corthay while having 2 completed JLP shoes with another pair on the way. I don't want to end up like Kirby Allison using every maker available.

Does anyone know if Kirby actually pays for his orders? I hope he doesn’t, judging from the fits he gets.

 

[S K M]

The Duke of Windsor had Scholte cut his coats and had another tailor for his trousers. Scholte’s strength was in the drape cut of coatmaking. Whether or not the trousers were ordered from Scholte was immaterial, as they would have been farmed out anyways.

I have for various reasons used a trouser tailor as well as a regular tailor (both in Naples). Anyway, when I wanted a linen suit I for some reason thought it would be best to have both items executed my my (jacket) tailor. Turned out my pant maker ended up making them anyway as he is apparently the person to whom my tailor outsources all pants 😂 So ever since, I have stuck with my pant maker...