Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[dieworkwear]

Just started a bespoke blazer project with the guys at Tailor's Keep in SF, same folks that did the Mersolair mocha linen suit for @UrbanComposition . They recently got in the new Fox Sport book, and I loved the FS12 "Bright Navy" swatch. I know there's a lot of hate for brass buttons, but I found these very clean buttons sans anchors or other insignias.

Going 6x2 double breasted with patch pockets. Super excited about it. Will get my first round of fitting with the garment in about 1.5 months.

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Sounds like an interesting project.

FWIW, I think it's worth taking that swatch outside in natural and direct sunlight, if you can. That blue in the photo looks like it has a slightly purple-y cast. I find colder looking blues a bit easier to wear, esp if they have brass buttons.

 

[Rithrin]

Sounds like an interesting project.

FWIW, I think it's worth taking that swatch outside in natural and direct sunlight, if you can. That blue in the photo looks like it has a slightly purple-y cast. I find colder looking blues a bit easier to wear, esp if they have brass buttons.

It does have a bit of purple to it. Good tip, I should have taken it outside, but we were close to the window with lots of natural light. My photos attached were not white balanced and don't quite do it justice.

It was actually quite striking how different they looked in person compared to how they're presented on the website. They have another Swatch, FS13 "Ink Blue" which I was considering, but it's much duller in person and didn't seem appropriate for what we were going for here.

 

[classicalthunde]

Just started a bespoke blazer project with the guys at Tailor's Keep in SF, same folks that did the Mersolair mocha linen suit for @UrbanComposition . They recently got in the new Fox Sport book, and I loved the FS12 "Bright Navy" swatch. I know there's a lot of hate for brass buttons, but I found these very clean buttons sans anchors or other insignias.

Going 6x2 double breasted with patch pockets. Super excited about it. Will get my first round of fitting with the garment in about 1.5 months.

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Interested to see how it goes, thinking of doing a non-blazer navy sport coat in either Fox Sport or Drapers 6-ply for the winter!

 

[Rithrin]

Interested to see how it goes, thinking of doing a non-blazer navy sport coat in either Fox Sport or Drapers 6-ply for the winter!

This one will be quarter-lined and self-lined for the rest, so it's going to be very light overall, but I live in always-Summer San Jose. This swatch is 290g, they have some 350g which would be great for colder weather, especially if fully lined. I'll post pics after the first fitting!

 

[induere_to]

 

[classicalthunde]

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without venturing into Unfunded Liabilities territory, @induere_to I’m curious to hear what your fav blue-navy-midnight swatches are in this collection.

 

[jimney]

Some potentially uplifting news. It seems like international travel might resume in a couple of months Maybe tailors and shoemakers will be able to visit the US by Christmas.

Exclusive: U.S. developing plan to require foreign visitors to be vaccinated, official says

The Biden administration is developing a plan to require nearly all foreign visitors to the United States to be fully vaccinated against COVID-19 as part of eventually lifting travel restrictions that bar much of the world from entering the United States, a White House official told Reuters on...

www.reuters.com

Hoping Steed and A&S can visit soon. A&S set appointments for September already while Steed I think is waiting for more concrete news.

 

[induere_to]

without venturing into Unfunded Liabilities territory, @induere_to I’m curious to hear what your fav blue-navy-midnight swatches are in this collection.

The one mentioned above isn’t bad, no matter the time of day or lighting provided, no one would ever mistake it for black. It’s a good solid blue. However, because I am me, I do like the lighter one, it looks like it has been left out in the sun too long; and I dig that.

However, also because I am me. I wouldn’t go with a navy at all. I’m actually considering the yellow to replace something else I currently have and I really dig the faded olive-green.:

 

[Rithrin]

The one mentioned above isn’t bad, no matter the time of day or lighting provided, no one would ever mistake it for black. It’s a good solid blue. However, because I am me, I do like the lighter one, it looks like it has been left out in the sun too long; and I dig that.

However, also because I am me. I wouldn’t go with a navy at all. I’m actually considering the yellow to replace something else I currently have and I really dig the faded olive-green.:



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For that out-in-the-sun-too-long look, their Hazel FS7 looks great, too. It's an all around great book!

 

[bourbonbasted]

Interesting update for the London contingent: Looks like Ango-Italian are dipping their toe into the bespoke game.

Anglo-Italian Bespoke - Opening October 2021

We regard ourselves as flag bearers for a way of dressing, sitting within a lineage of incredible stores that have individually interpreted this conservative style of dress in order to produce garments made with integrity and purpose. Our look has always sought a balance between the softness of...

angloitalian.com

I remember Jake saying that a large number of his regular customers are/were bespoke clients from other houses. Makes me wonder how many guys have "committed" to at least trying them out. Also makes me wonder who he's poaching to staff up the workshop, given he makes the English workmanship a selling point.

If his client base is as custom-leaning as he makes them out to be, then this was always inevitable. While you can make OTR/MTM garments to "bespoke standards," idiots like us are gluttons for punishment and will always insist on the tortures of the real thing.

 

[acapaca]

I'm not all that up on Anglo-Italian. What does he mean by 'low drape'?

 

[Crispyj]

Pricing for jackets start at £2700.

 

[lordsuperb]

Interesting update for the London contingent: Looks like Ango-Italian are dipping their toe into the bespoke game.

Anglo-Italian Bespoke - Opening October 2021

We regard ourselves as flag bearers for a way of dressing, sitting within a lineage of incredible stores that have individually interpreted this conservative style of dress in order to produce garments made with integrity and purpose. Our look has always sought a balance between the softness of...

angloitalian.com

I remember Jake saying that a large number of his regular customers are/were bespoke clients from other houses. Makes me wonder how many guys have "committed" to at least trying them out. Also makes me wonder who he's poaching to staff up the workshop, given he makes the English workmanship a selling point.

If his client base is as custom-leaning as he makes them out to be, then this was always inevitable. While you can make OTR/MTM garments to "bespoke standards," idiots like us are gluttons for punishment and will always insist on the tortures of the real thing.

The juice is not worth the squeeze if you are happy with your tailor.

 

[bourbonbasted]

The juice is not worth the squeeze if you are happy with your tailor.

That's why I questioned the "commitment" he's gotten. If he truly is selling OTR to former bespoke clients who were wooed away from their tailors (as he claims) then he's got a decent base of people looking to play the field.

 

[dieworkwear]

You can have more than one tailor. Adolphe Menjou's autobiography is even titled It Took Nine Tailors.

I'm not all that up on Anglo-Italian. What does he mean by 'low drape'?

Drape refers to the excess cloth around the chest, which tends to collect near the armhole. It's a style of cutting/ pattern drafting. Low drape just means it has a bit of drape, but not a lot.