Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[FlyingHorker]

I'm going to have my Balmacaan shortened 2.5". Bottom-of-the-calf length sure looks dope. Practically, it's terrible. Should hit mid-calf or a bit higher when I get it back.

Forget sitting down if you don't want your coat picking up every piece of crud from the ground, it always brushes my car's sideskirt as well when getting in.

Also having sleeves shortened, another button on the wrist to make the wrist strap functional, and using the chopped fabric to have a throat latch added.

 

[mockingboy]

Photos?

I'm going to have my Balmacaan shortened 2.5". Bottom-of-the-calf length sure looks dope. Practically, it's terrible. Should hit mid-calf or a bit higher when I get it back.

Forget sitting down if you don't want your coat picking up every piece of crud from the ground, it always brushes my car's sideskirt as well when getting in.

Also having sleeves shortened, another button on the wrist to make the wrist strap functional, and using the chopped fabric to have a throat latch added.

 

[Texasmade]

Photos?

 

[mockingboy]

Lol

View attachment 1552214

 

[FlyingHorker]

Photos?

Ongoing Bespoke Projects

Here are two fresco suits. These are the last suits before my old tailor has been retired at 85 years old. I am really thankful to him. I am Sorry for the poor photos , but I just wanted to show that a lot of handwork exists in these two jackets. The collar , the sleeves , the lapel and the...

www.styleforum.net

 

[dan'l]

^ does your coat have buttons, or just the belt? I don‘t remember if you mentioned it when you were getting it commissioned.

 

[Punt]

For those who are living close: La Montagna is visiting the Netherlands again last weekend of Feb.

 

[FlyingHorker]

^ does your coat have buttons, or just the belt? I don‘t remember if you mentioned it when you were getting it commissioned.

It has buttons, it's a fly front, closes up to the lapels. You can see the edges of the seams by the belt buckle hanging loose, if you look closely.

I forgot to request exposed buttons, but I'm glad my tailor went with fly front, it looks better.

 

[ricghkim49]

yea, just wanted to do a little due diligence and see if anyone had any personal experiences. So far the only things I have seen are on theirs and affiliates sites/social media so was just looking for a real world or at least third-party input

While certainly not the be-all end-all, I do find the opinions and group consensus to be helpful to a degree...less so for what is 'the best' and more so for broad tidbits like Steed/Richard Anderson offer something equal (or possibly better) to A&S/Huntsman at a considerably better value, or the disastrous experience of the guy who used Cad and Dandy for their wedding suit a couple of years ago

Also, i find it odd that most of the bespoke tailors mentioned on this thread are almost exclusively non-US based traveling tailors...off of the top of my head, @Encathol Epistemia is the only one I can recall who has shared the details with local/US-based bespoke tailors

I never went through the bespoke process with them. I only did their Made to Measure. But the last time I talked to them about their bespoke options I do believe it's made in NYC.

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

Hey, @dieworkwear, wanna be a real boy?

Earlier this week, Joseph Genuardi sent a sport coat that I had commissioned last year to me after a satisfactory second fitting in late January. A blue solaro three-piece suit that I commissioned at the same time is pending shipment.

It is made of Bateman & Ogden Apollo AA27, a bottle green wool barathea of approximately 14 ounce weight. It's a little weird and I was afraid that Mr. Genuardi would decline to make it when I first proposed it, but to my pleasure, he instead embraced the project and we're both quite pleased with it. It's inspired by early twentieth century lounge jackets and Norfolk Jackets. The lounge jackets gave it the three-button, single breasted configuration and peaked lapels, while the Norfolk jacket contributed the belted action back and center vent. It also has a large-than-usual hip pocket to store various things, although I imagined it as being for cigars. I've taken to calling it a 'club jacket', although not very well-founded reasons. I do intend to wear it to a cigar lounge, which is ot a membership organization, that I frequented in the time before it became impossible to frequent places due to certain present public health concerns.

This cost slightly more than the navy blazer that he made me of a Bateman & Ogden navy serge, because the back pleats required extra material. This was, if I understood this rightly, not as much because the pleats required extra material as that they took more space up on the cloth when laid out, so the pattern couldn't be laid quite as efficiently, so more space was needed than usual.

The usual front view, adorned with a grey thai rough silk batwing bowtie and Thai printed silk pocket square from Sam Hober as well as a vintage hatpin that I use for a butonniere in winter, because my overcoats tend to crush flowers. It's being worn under a winter grey Stroller hat from Leon Drexler and over a double-breasted waistcoat and trousers that John Di Pietro made for me. The shirt is from a set that I bought from Charles Tyrwhitt, which are unremarkable, but have given good service over the years. (Believe it or not, this is my idea of a casual outfit... ideas just have to be ideas, not good ideas)

From the side one can see the pleat around the arm for the action back and that I like cheese.

The rear view hints at the pleats and shows the half-belt back.

The lining is red with a sort of rose pattern that I thought evoked the wallpaper of some stuffy club where old men would puff on cigars while complaining about Bolseheviks.

Here is a shot to emphasize the large hip pocket, demonstrate how the lining changes with the light and offer to sell you a watch. It's a real Rolex, I swear.

I've been wearing this a lot this week around my apartment and while attending to errands. It's pretty comfortable and feels snug, yet cozy. Incidentally, it might look a little wrinkled as I'd been wearing it most of the day, including while out buying liquor and toilet paper, before taking these. Of course, the camera tends to be unkind to me. I really must have a conversation with my photographer.

*Cut to Encathol Epistemia having an animated discussion with an old digital camera perched atop several heavy books atop a bar stool*

Incidentally, I visited John Di Pietro this Saturday for a second fitting on another sport coat, which was also successful and I should take delivery in a few weeks time. I also had occasion to ask him about the, "CU # ####," number that I saw on an old maker's label, which is turns out was supposed to start with FU for FUlton, the exchange name for his old shop on Sanger Street in Oxford Circle.

 

[Despos]

Hey, @dieworkwear, wanna be a real boy?

Earlier this week, Joseph Genuardi sent a sport coat that I had commissioned last year to me after a satisfactory second fitting in late January. A blue solaro three-piece suit that I commissioned at the same time is pending shipment.

It is made of Bateman & Ogden Apollo AA27, a bottle green wool barathea of approximately 14 ounce weight. It's a little weird and I was afraid that Mr. Genuardi would decline to make it when I first proposed it, but to my pleasure, he instead embraced the project and we're both quite pleased with it. It's inspired by early twentieth century lounge jackets and Norfolk Jackets. The lounge jackets gave it the three-button, single breasted configuration and peaked lapels, while the Norfolk jacket contributed the belted action back and center vent. It also has a large-than-usual hip pocket to store various things, although I imagined it as being for cigars. I've taken to calling it a 'club jacket', although not very well-founded reasons. I do intend to wear it to a cigar lounge, which is ot a membership organization, that I frequented in the time before it became impossible to frequent places due to certain present public health concerns.

This cost slightly more than the navy blazer that he made me of a Bateman & Ogden navy serge, because the back pleats required extra material. This was, if I understood this rightly, not as much because the pleats required extra material as that they took more space up on the cloth when laid out, so the pattern couldn't be laid quite as efficiently, so more space was needed than usual.

View attachment 1555480

The usual front view, adorned with a grey thai rough silk batwing bowtie and Thai printed silk pocket square from Sam Hober as well as a vintage hatpin that I use for a butonniere in winter, because my overcoats tend to crush flowers. It's being worn under a winter grey Stroller hat from Leon Drexler and over a double-breasted waistcoat and trousers that John Di Pietro made for me. The shirt is from a set that I bought from Charles Tyrwhitt, which are unremarkable, but have given good service over the years. (Believe it or not, this is my idea of a casual outfit... ideas just have to be ideas, not good ideas)

View attachment 1555482

From the side one can see the pleat around the arm for the action back and that I like cheese.

View attachment 1555481

The rear view hints at the pleats and shows the half-belt back.

View attachment 1555479

The lining is red with a sort of rose pattern that I thought evoked the wallpaper of some stuffy club where old men would puff on cigars while complaining about Bolseheviks.

View attachment 1555483

Here is a shot to emphasize the large hip pocket, demonstrate how the lining changes with the light and offer to sell you a watch. It's a real Rolex, I swear.

I've been wearing this a lot this week around my apartment and while attending to errands. It's pretty comfortable and feels snug, yet cozy. Incidentally, it might look a little wrinkled as I'd been wearing it most of the day, including while out buying liquor and toilet paper, before taking these. Of course, the camera tends to be unkind to me. I really must have a conversation with my photographer.

*Cut to Encathol Epistemia having an animated discussion with an old digital camera perched atop several heavy books atop a bar stool*

Incidentally, I visited John Di Pietro this Saturday for a second fitting on another sport coat, which was also successful and I should take delivery in a few weeks time. I also had occasion to ask him about the, "CU # ####," number that I saw on an old maker's label, which is turns out was supposed to start with FU for FUlton, the exchange name for his old shop on Sanger Street in Oxford Circle.

Saw this first on Joe’s IG. Instinctively assumed you to be the recipient of this lovely club jacket. Instinct confirmed. Enjoy this one off piece!

 

[The Chai]

More suede double rider goodness

 

[Mr. Six]

Zoom fitting with Steed. Nice to visit with Edwin and Matthew after a year. It’s looking pretty good so far. They’re going to lift the front a quarter inch or so but otherwise it just needs finishing. The fabric is Escorial barleycorn.

 

[The Chai]

Collected my suede double rider today

 

[mockingboy]

Interesting jacket; what happened to the pocket on your watch-side?

Collected my suede double rider today View attachment 1557658 View attachment 1557659