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A few comments. If he doesn’t build up the canvass in the shoulder, adding the shoulder pad will still allow the shoulder to droop. The pad won’t elevate the tip of the shoulder without support from the canvass.Designed and Created my own pattern from scratch. Initially for Trousers and now Jackets ....
And captured the entire process from drafting the pattern to perfecting the balance in Muslin cloth ...
Alan Bee
Around 5:00 and again at 6:00 minute mark you see the collar dips very low at the center back. Jacket isn't sitting/balanced on your shoulders as well as it could be. This is a critical area to fit correctly. If the collar were .5 to.75” higher at the center back it transforms how the jacket sits on your shoulder and you would feel a different freedom of movement when you wear this. It’s not just to raise the collar, it’s about the shoulder seam placement. Meaning; if the shoulder seams were strategically placed forward, the collar would sit higher on you neck as a result of the position of the shoulder line. At present the highest points on the collar are at the sides/shoulder, then the collar goes flat and downward across the back of your neck.
Waist line should be above the buttoning point. It looks lower in this video. Skirt is flaring because the jacket is a bit crooked. If you straighten the neck it brings the skirt closer to the hip. The front panels look like they want to sweep open.
Wait, this isn’t the tailors fit thread....never mind
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