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brax

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Only your opinion should matter but I also agree that your jacket would benefit from a few additional cms in length. Regardless, enjoy your commissions.
 

dresden

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A bit more progress
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dresden

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Got this jacket back again. Picked it up last winter, wore it a bit and she took it back for minor adjustments. Very happy with everything. Lapels, gorge, balance are, to me, perfect. Think I will Stick with this and just change shoulders and pockets for suits v jackets.
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19BD521D-8DD6-4622-8519-B37FBD9250DB.jpeg
 

classicalthunde

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Anybody have any experience with J. Mueser in NYC?

I haven’t heard much about them here or elsewhere, but recently followed them after some Wm Brown and 18th amendment cross promotion and saw that they have a bespoke option. Apparently it’s cut and produced locally in NYC with multiple fittings...
 

classicalthunde

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Forgot to put this crappy photo of this superb Tofani suit in the feed. Made in an impressive wrinkle-free and not scratchy-at-all 6ply heavy fabric from VBC/Drapers.

View attachment 1489758

Is a hopsack or suiting fabric? I saw a piece at The Armoury that was a 6-ply VBC hopsack for a blazer...wondering if this could be a contender for the SF blazer-suit (tm)
 

Marshak

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Is a hopsack or suiting fabric? I saw a piece at The Armoury that was a 6-ply VBC hopsack for a blazer...wondering if this could be a contender for the SF blazer-suit (tm)

It's a hopsack suiting fabric :). 480/510gr per meter but it wears light with the Tofani's canvassing. An evolution of the VBC 4ply and more open weave. Here you can see the grain of the fabric. Perfectly suited for a blazer. Less rustic and better finishing than the english 6ply from Woodhouse or Taylor&Lodge. Great 3 seasons suit. Too airy for the hard winter and too heavy for the hard summer nevertheless.

Screenshot_20201010_134306_com.instagram.android.jpg
 
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classicalthunde

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It's a hopsack suiting fabric :). 480/510gr per meter but it wears light with the Tofani's canvassing. An evolution of the VBC 4ply and more open weave. Here you can see the grain of the fabric. Perfectly suited for a blazer.

View attachment 1489848

interesting! I have a 280g Caccioppoli hopsack that I was looking to make up with I Sarti into a neapolitian-esque blazer whenever they return state-side, but I might inquire how much a full suit is with this fabric and kill two birds with one stone.

I know the blazer suit idea is generally frowned upon these days, but I essentially only wear full suits for funerals/weddings/interviews these days, so something that serves primarily as a blazer and can morph into a 3rd suit with some more casual details for an outdoor daytime wedding still peaks my interest. The only thing giving me pause is the weight of the fabric, but I assume the open weave and half lining would mitigate that
 

Marshak

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interesting! I have a 280g Caccioppoli hopsack that I was looking to make up with I Sarti into a neapolitian-esque blazer whenever they return state-side, but I might inquire how much a full suit is with this fabric and kill two birds with one stone.

I know the blazer suit idea is generally frowned upon these days, but I essentially only wear full suits for funerals/weddings/interviews these days, so something that serves primarily as a blazer and can morph into a 3rd suit with some more casual details for an outdoor daytime wedding still peaks my interest. The only thing giving me pause is the weight of the fabric, but I assume the open weave and half lining would mitigate that

I wouldn't turn a 280gr hopsack into a suit. The trousers won't hold the drape. The 6ply has been conceived for suiting.
 

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