Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[bernoulli]

New Zegna 14Mil winter suit funded. Wonderfully soft fabric. The Italians know how to make great fabric, no matter what people tell you. Why a vest on a DB-suit? Because my tailor did not want anything to go to "waste".

 

[brax]

The third of four commissions that came from Tofani. Again sans fittings. This is a Taylor & Lodge blazer. I wanted metal buttons as it is a blazer but had a hard time finding any that I liked. Davide reached into his father’s vault and found these 50 year old buttons.

 

[jonathanS]

The third of four commissions that came from Tofani. Again sans fittings. This is a Taylor & Lodge blazer. I wanted metal buttons as it is a blazer but had a hard time finding any that I liked. Davide reached into his father’s vault and found these 50 year old buttons. View attachment 2095497 View attachment 2095499
View attachment 2095491
View attachment 2095493
View attachment 2095495

Was that the lumbs golden bale / mohair blend mock Leno? I was looking for a length of that fabric but Taylor & lodge wasnt open.

Also, in the first photo, is that an old brora x London lounge tweed jacketing fabric. I think it was called brora 646, if I recall correctly

 

[taxgenius]

This isn't a recommendation but rather an update, as I know some here have had dealings with Biagio in the past.

Biagio is talented but challenging to work with

He insisted on providing the suit for free due to "previous inconveniences". But I ended up ordering an extra pair of trousers and an overcoat, for which I paid the full price.

To what did he attribute the previous inconveniences? I used him when he was in NYC. The suit jacket for
me was too short and too tight. Had a local tailor try to salvage it but there are limits. The delays in delivery didn’t help. I think he has potential but doubt anyone would try him again.

 

[jonathanS]

To what did he attribute the previous inconveniences? I used him when he was in NYC. The suit jacket for
me was too short and too tight. Had a local tailor try to salvage it but there are limits. The delays in delivery didn’t help. I think he has potential but doubt anyone would try him again.

The only thing that looked good about him is the price. In my experience, with bespoke, you really get what you pay for, unless you’re going to them.

 

[calypso]

I was in Paris when Dirnelli recommended him (his first trunk show), and initially, he did some good stuff for me. But overall, it's been an expensive affair.

Jackets and overcoats are good, but the trousers have been... Well, not good

 

[Ghotihead2001]

Steed update: was sent my DB suit after 1 fitting. I guess the implication was that it would be finished but may need some tweaks....well it needed them...side seams "eased" and armhole position "deepened", among other things...

So we did a zoom fitting (which i hope is sufficient to make the appropriate corrections) and its going back to them after xmas.

 

[lordsuperb]

Steed update: was sent my DB suit after 1 fitting. I guess the implication was that it would be finished but may need some tweaks....well it needed them...side seams "eased" and armhole position "deepened", among other things...

So we did a zoom fitting (which i hope is sufficient to make the appropriate corrections) and its going back to them after xmas.

The jacket looks wearable; I would wait until the summer to send it back.

It will give the jacket time to break in.

 

[Ghotihead2001]

The jacket looks wearable; I would wait until the summer to send it back.

It will give the jacket time to break in.

The jacket was wearable, but there are some bigger issues that are not appreciable in that picture. For example, it was so tight across the back that I couldn’t comfortably cross my arms and tight across the front of the armholes to the point where I couldn’t hold my arms out in front of me at shoulder height.

I relayed these concerns to them, and they suggested the zoom fitting and adjustment.

 

[lordsuperb]

The jacket was wearable, but there are some bigger issues that are not appreciable in that picture. For example, it was so tight across the back that I couldn’t comfortably cross my arms and tight across the front of the armholes to the point where I couldn’t hold my arms out in front of me at shoulder height.

I relayed these concerns to them, and they suggested the zoom fitting and adjustment.

The joys of bespoke, welcome!

 

[Texasmade]

Received an email from Eric Jensen formerly from Gallo NYC. He hasn't done any trunkshows in awhile and his IG posts have slowed considerably. He said he's moving from Gallo to Stefano Bemer at the end of this year.

No idea if he's changing his cut to more of a Florentine style or how this is going to impact any current projects he has in the works.

 

[Sreezy36]

Steed update: was sent my DB suit after 1 fitting. I guess the implication was that it would be finished but may need some tweaks....well it needed them...side seams "eased" and armhole position "deepened", among other things...

So we did a zoom fitting (which i hope is sufficient to make the appropriate corrections) and its going back to them after xmas.

What cloth did you choose?

 

[jonathanS]

Received an email from Eric Jensen formerly from Gallo NYC. He hasn't done any trunkshows in awhile and his IG posts have slowed considerably. He said he's moving from Gallo to Stefano Bemer at the end of this year.

No idea if he's changing his cut to more of a Florentine style or how this is going to impact any current projects he has in the works.

Interesting, I’m guessing he’ll handle bemer’s American clientele? And not the Italian clientele? I always wondered who made for the clients in Italy. I know vestrucci was officially done making. But didn’t know who made for them because tomasco isn’t a tailor

 

[jonathanS]

The jacket was wearable, but there are some bigger issues that are not appreciable in that picture. For example, it was so tight across the back that I couldn’t comfortably cross my arms and tight across the front of the armholes to the point where I couldn’t hold my arms out in front of me at shoulder height.

I relayed these concerns to them, and they suggested the zoom fitting and adjustment.

Steed roulette

 

[lordsuperb]

Received an email from Eric Jensen formerly from Gallo NYC. He hasn't done any trunkshows in awhile and his IG posts have slowed considerably. He said he's moving from Gallo to Stefano Bemer at the end of this year.

No idea if he's changing his cut to more of a Florentine style or how this is going to impact any current projects he has in the works.

I didn't like what he was producing when he was cutting and making the jackets himself. Hopefully he's able to get things sorted and his wife will start modeling the stuff again. Her cleavage was on fleek for sure!!