Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[brax]

That's mainly because I don't remember her name. I know Hugo's name though.

What is it? I forgot his name, too.

 

[Texasmade]

What is it? I forgot his name, too.

His name is Hugo Jacomet.

 

[EFV]

That's mainly because I don't remember her name. I know Hugo's name though.

Her name’s Sonya. A really sweet person irl.

 

[brax]

His name is Hugo Jacomet.

Yeah, you mentioned his name in your original post. It came off as a jackass remark rather than a clever quip. Sorry.

 

[dan'l]

Spoiler

I know this is obvious, but ... to state the obvious, I would start with what kind of look you're trying to achieve. Once you get outside of traditional tailoring, stuff becomes a lot more nebulous and you can create many different kinds of looks, depending on what makes you feel best. I'd also say there's a danger in that, outside of tailoring, wardrobes can also be a lot less stable. You can wear the same suits and sport coats for decades, but it's harder to do that with casualwear cause trends and your own taste are a lot more volatile. Something to think about if you're putting in the money for bespoke.

Duffle is great for some looks; not so useful in others. How you style the duffle can also throw it one way or another.

Outside of tailoring, I mostly wear workwear, some contemporary stuff, and leather jackets. But the silhouette and styling really depends on how you want an outfit to look. I know we talked about this before, but I still think tailor-made non-suit/ non-SC wardrobes sometimes leave something to be desired, aesthetically speaking. The look ends up being so middle of the road, you end up looking like you went to J. Crew (which is a great store, but bespoke is a lot of money to pay for a J. Crew look). Or you end up falling into the rabbit hole of classic menswear and get period-correct pieces (which some tailors are good at cause they have the pattern books), but then you look like you're in period costume.

If it were me, and I had to get something bespoke, I would go for a topcoat. It's something a tailor can do; it's reasonably classic; and relatively easier to execute than some more adventurous piece. It also benefits from having multiple fittings. And depending on the cut and material, you can dress it down with jeans and heavy sweaters. It looks contemporary and not costumey. It gives you the benefits of tailoring (lapels, shoulder line, etc), but can look informal in the contexts. And it's something that can stay with you even if your tastes change.

I have always found Timothy Everest good at designing pieces for these in-between situations. His garments are often not formal yet still stylish. His team with Lee is very good at the bespeaking part of the project, i.e. the process of finding out what you want.
Have a look at: https://timothyeverest.co.uk/beyond-suiting-tailored-suede/
and at his instagram to get some ideas.

You also might find the driving jacket by D. Taub of G&H interesting, it was part of a competition by car maker Bentley a couple of years ago, but he has made a couple of them since:

For the style you are looking for I suggest you to contact Sartoria Carfora near Naples. Look at his instagram, he developed a nice "norfolk" cut.

Giancarlo Maresca in a presumably Carfora Norfolk.

You have an inspiration. Now you need the guts. I don't have them.

I'm a huge fan of Norfolk jackets and belted jackets in general so I digged through my saved Instagram posts and accounts so you can appreciate them.

My advice is that before going wild ordering a bespoke one buy a RTW one (You'll probably have to buy vintage) and wear it to see if you like it on you or feel confident. I personally love them and they are a huge part of my wardrobe (Tailoring and workwear both) but then again I'm not afraid to admit that I do wear vintage or reproductions and aim for that period look although it might be customey for most (Which personally I don't worry about) I feel most confident in them.

Thank you all for your thoughtful replies. I was a bit swamped with work, so couldn't post till now.

I already have four bespoke overcoats, so my "basics" are covered. Therefore I was thinking of going for something a bit different. I know the general advise is to go RTW for such pieces, but I have a very hard time finding clothes that fit me. That's the main reason I do bepoke, for the fit. Also, I think the cost will be very reasonable, perhaps on par with RTW. I think the only way to get it for less would be to thrift one. I have actually looked for one OTR just to see if I even like the look on my body (this is generally what I do before getting the "bespoke version" of anything).

Anyways, I might go for a half-Norfolk instead, since I am torn on the belt-thingy in the front. I think that look only works on guys who are tall and lean. I found this nice example:

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/...reciation-thread.268410/page-148#post-7502570

I like the idea of a hardy tweed coat with action shoulders and back belt.

 

[dan'l]

Timothy Everest is a really good idea. He has a bespoke program too. If dan'l can make it to London, I assume he might be able to get a custom garment from someone who's good at design. Maybe one of the in-store garments can also be used as a fitting garment for style purposes.

Just to clarify, the garment would be made by one of my current tailors, who has replicated other pieces for me, based on photos. I thought a Norfolk jacket would not be too far out of his comfort zone (e.g. like a safari coat or teba), since it is basically just a SC with some extras.

 

[Thomson]

I like that idea - a Norfolk to my mind risks looking a bit dated. This doesn’t actually. Would it make sense to spec it with a latch thingy so that it can be closed at the chest? Or would that change the cut too much so that it looks off when opened?

 

[dan'l]

^Yes, I'd like to have a throat latch, too, like this (though a full Norfolk is shown):

I also like the one Grey Fox had made up (technically still a full Norfolk, but w/o the vertical straps):

 

[taxgenius]

Anyone know why Garanta cancelled his NY trip?

 

[mockingboy]

Because he is stealing our money —- guy is awful. Such a bad experience.

Anyone know why Garanta cancelled his NY trip?

 

[lordsuperb]

Can you cancel the credit card charges?

 

[KWang94]

Can you cancel the credit card charges?

File a chargeback with your credit card company. They'll take care of the rest.

 

[taxgenius]

Can you cancel the credit card charges?

He doesn’t take credit cards.

 

[bdavro23]

He doesn’t take credit cards.

WTF?

It took me literally 6 minutes to sign up to take credit cards...

I dont want to pay the 3% either, but it sure is a lot easier and safer on both sides than relying only on checks and wire transfers.

 

[taxgenius]

WTF?

It took me literally 6 minutes to sign up to take credit cards...

I dont want to pay the 3% either, but it sure is a lot easier and safer on both sides than relying only on checks and wire transfers.

He’s relying on cash and wire transfers.