Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[lordsuperb]

I am posting in this thread for advice and wisdom about the protocols of bespoke commissions and what I should reasonably expect.

I would find a better tailor or stick with rtw.

 

[WillingToLearn]

The response from the tailor is bullshit. Move on to another tailor. So many "master" tailors out there that are masters of nothing but the most straightforward cut. It has to be frustrating for Chris and others, although it does give them a nice, low bar to demonstrate their superior skills.

 

[jonathanS]

Ugh.... the perils of bespoke.

I have recently received a bespoke suit with advice to break it in and go back for any changes needed. The main issue is that the upper sleeve and sleevecap do not sit correctly on my problem right side where my shoulder is both dropped and forward. This is the same issue I get on most RTW and the reason I went bespoke in the first place.

So I got in touch with the tailor whose response has every worrying sign in the book, telling me:

• It isn’t a flaw in the garment, it is an issue with my shoulder and its shape deviation
• The laws of physics mean it is impossible to conceal my anomaly
• Any attempt to unpick and alter the sleevecap would make the problem worse. There is nothing that can be done to improve the fit.
• Here are some pictures of the Prince of Wales. His A&S suits don’t fit but everyone admires them as beautiful handmade garments
• I should adopt the principle of sprezzatura and learn to find beauty in imperfections
• I should come to the conclusion that the suit is perfect as it is, especially because the construction was already more time consuming than was allowed for in the original quotation and price paid due to changes needed after the forward fitting

Not happy at all. Does anyone have any advice for me? Does it sound hopeless?

Am I being unreasonable to expect that a fully bespoke suit should fit cleanly around shoulders and sleeves, especially as I have some RTW that is much better? I have a dropped and forward shoulder because of a back injury but am not (quite) Quasimodo.

I am guessing the response from the tailor is because they realise that the only thing that should fix the issue is to remake the sleeve and they really don’t want to do that.

No. Don’t go back to this clown. Get a reputable tailor.

 

[Stugotes]

Ha... suit number 1.

Regarding ready to wear, even though I frequently encounter fit isssues on this right side, there are some examples which prove it is possible for me to have a cleaner fit despite "the laws of physics". Here is a RLPL Drake sport coat I picked up on eBay. It has structure, but no heavy padding and pretty high armholes:

View attachment 1134573 View attachment 1134574

That jacket looks excellent! If other RTW stuff fits you as well, might as well stick to that!

 

[Aloysius16]

That jacket looks excellent! If other RTW stuff fits you as well, might as well stick to that!

I know... if only other RTW did! Unfortunately the Drake cut is this size (40L) is as rare as hen’s teeth and the suit trousers in the same cut don’t fit at all. At least it provides an example of how the laws of physics concerning my shoulder can be broken.

 

[mockingboy]

All

Had many different bespoke pieces made through many tailors, but the service has never been as lousy as recently with Biagio Granata.

The guy is totally unreliable, doesn’t communicate, and feels like I’m never going to get my garments which are paid for and 5 months late.

Anyone else have anything on this guy?

 

[taxgenius]

All

Had many different bespoke pieces made through many tailors, but the service has never been as lousy as recently with Biagio Granata.

The guy is totally unreliable, doesn’t communicate, and feels like I’m never going to get my garments which are paid for and 5 months late.

Anyone else have anything on this guy?

Yes, others had similar experience. I received delivery but need an adjustment to the shoulder and chest which he agreed to do. I’m concerned that I may never get it back or it will take a year. I would have it fixed locally but that would cost a few hundred dollars.

 

[usctrojans31]

It seems like Biagio grew way too big, way too quickly. Sorry you're all dealing with the challenges.

 

[taxgenius]

It seems like Biagio grew way too big, way too quickly. Sorry you're all dealing with the challenges.

What boggles the mind is that he's making little money on a 1st commission and now they almost all will be the last too.

 

[classicalthunde]

Out of curiosity, how much fabric is there available to be able to let out in a typical bespoke jacket? I would imagine its more than a RTW or MTM, is 2-3 inches out of the realm of possibility?

interested in picking up a used bespoke (not for me) jacket at a local consignment store, I love the styling but it would need to be let out significantly in the chest and waist, the shoulders and sleeves fit well...

 

[Texasmade]

According to the Parisian Gentleman's wife, most bespoke jackets have about 7cm. Not sure how true this is though.

 

[classicalthunde]

According to the Parisian Gentleman's wife, most bespoke jackets have about 7cm. Not sure how true this is though.

Haha, i just watched that clip recently too, I find it funny how shes the face of those videos now but still just 'Parisian Gentlemans wife' ...I have no idea what her or claim to fame is either! curious if that is 7cm total or per seam (if center and side seams then that is almost 8 inches)

FWIW, when speaking with Ed at Huntsman NYC about their new outsourced bespoke program he mentioned that they do enough inlays to account for roughly a 20lb gain

might just risk it for the price...

 

[Bromley]

Out of curiosity, how much fabric is there available to be able to let out in a typical bespoke jacket? I would imagine its more than a RTW or MTM, is 2-3 inches out of the realm of possibility?

interested in picking up a used bespoke (not for me) jacket at a local consignment store, I love the styling but it would need to be let out significantly in the chest and waist, the shoulders and sleeves fit well...

Original seam allowances are one thing, but what if it's already been let out?

 

[classicalthunde]

Original seam allowances are one thing, but what if it's already been let out?

fair point, probably not an exact science but id guess that because the shoulders are approx my size that it has not been let out significantly unless he had very broad shoulders

if it is still there next week I'll take it as a sign and jump on it

 

[Texasmade]

Haha, i just watched that clip recently too, I find it funny how shes the face of those videos now but still just 'Parisian Gentlemans wife' ...I have no idea what her or claim to fame is either! curious if that is 7cm total or per seam (if center and side seams then that is almost 8 inches)

FWIW, when speaking with Ed at Huntsman NYC about their new outsourced bespoke program he mentioned that they do enough inlays to account for roughly a 20lb gain

might just risk it for the price...

That's mainly because I don't remember her name. I know Hugo's name though.