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My visit to Steed Tailors

Slewfoot

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Lovely write-up! Thanks for taking the time to do so. I guess I'll post a few photos here of some of the work Edwin and Matthew of Steed have done for me in recent years. They really do a wonderful job and they care - which is not something to underestimate.

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Manton

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I have my new one on today for the first time. It is good overall, though I think it could use a tweak on the right side. Not till the spring, though.
 

Slewfoot

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Thanks guys. I'm not sure if Steed has a default in that regard. I usually just request it. Although my incoming sportcoat is a single button which should be fun.
 

lordsuperb

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Slewfoot why don't you commission anything else from ww chan? I thought they did you justice in terms of a double breasted suit.
 

Slewfoot

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Slewfoot why don't you commission anything else from ww chan? I thought they did you justice in terms of a double breasted suit.


They did / do, but I have not been to Hong Kong in a while. My business took me there once a season a few years ago, but not so much anymore unfortunately. Hope to get there again at some point!
 

greger

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slewfoot,

So many of your SB have problems where they are buttoned. Actually the problem is somewhere else but shows up there. This is a problem the tailor should have dealt with and gotten rid of.

It is interesting how narrow the overlap is on the DB, an older style (1920s).

The craftsmanship is fairly nice.
 

taxgenius

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slewfoot,

So many of your SB have problems where they are buttoned. Actually the problem is somewhere else but shows up there. This is a problem the tailor should have dealt with and gotten rid of.

It is interesting how narrow the overlap is on the DB, an older style (1920s).

The craftsmanship is fairly nice.


For my benefit, can you explain the problem you see?
 

greger

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Could be several things. One it looks like the waist line is lower than the button stance, that might have something to do with it. The fluting aims towards the shoulders, so shorten the back or add up there at the front shoulder. Straightening or crooking the shoulder might take care of the problem. If he sways his hips forward then the coat needs more room in front and less at the sides. With a skeleton baste these can be figured out quickly. Sure there are other reasons why and don't remember off hand at present. Some tailors are really good, but none are perfect. When not perfect he should have worked out the details. Leaving errors on the back of one or two coats is one thing, but never the front which everybody is going to see.
 

Slewfoot

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greger,

I know what you are referring to around the buttoning point. Truth be told, I never notice it when I actually wear the coats. Occasionally if I have the coat buttoned and look in the mirror I may see it a bit, but trust me that this is a case where the photograph makes it look worse. I think a big reason though is that most all of these photos were of the coat within a few days of it being shipped over and taken out of the box. I should probably give them more time before taking any pictures.

The final photo of the blue herringbone tweed I've had since last winter and took the photo a few weeks ago and that shows the least amount of shirring around the buttonhole. I don't think that's a coincidence. And to further the point of breaking in and photos being deceptive, here is a photo Matthew took of me at my recent fitting where I wore my tweed suit that day. Just about no shirring here (and yes my right shirt sleeve is long on this shirt for whatever reason).

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greger

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That looks much better. People do have different postures through out the day too which can change the fit. And as you say coming out of a box.... And, as Thomas Mahon said, a tailored coat is somewhat fluid (heard that from my granddad, first over 50 years ago). Your coat maker has a good reputation.
 

hrv123

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Sorry to revive the thread , but does anyone know how I can get a hold of them besides from the email listed on their website? I've been trying to get a hold of them for the past week. Are they on SF?
 

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