Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread

[breakaway01]

Hi, I recently ordered my first shirt from luxire and was hoping to get some advice on improving the fit for my next one. Not sure if this is the right place to do so so please let me know if I should post this elsewhere.

Anyway - here are some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/gokTe

To me the main issue is the bunching around the arms and shoulders but I am not sure of what measurements to adjust and by how much. I also find the collar points very long (this was the default luxire bd collar). Can anyone suggest a collar that is more casual - not as tall and with shorter points?

You need to ask Luxire to correct for sloping shoulders, which is causing the diagonal lines from collar to armhole. Right shoulder is lower than left. Narrow the yoke (perhaps more on the right), shorten the sleeves slightly, and tighten the cuffs so that the cuff sits higher. Send them the photos.

FYI I don’t find pictures with the arms raised to be very helpful for fit. Not sure why people keep doing it.

 

[joacimbylehn]

I also find the collar points very long (this was the default luxire bd collar). Can anyone suggest a collar that is more casual - not as tall and with shorter points?

Never heard of anyone wanting a bd with less roll. First time for everything

No expert when it comes to shoulders etc, but I’d slim and shorten the sleeves just a little bit, and more importantly tighten the cuff so it doesn’t slip down your wrist and hands.
If you’re looking for a more casual shirt to be worn untucked without a jacket, you could probably shorten and slim it down even further.

 

[flvinny521]

Hi, I recently ordered my first shirt from luxire and was hoping to get some advice on improving the fit for my next one. Not sure if this is the right place to do so so please let me know if I should post this elsewhere.

Spoiler

Anyway - here are some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/gokTe

To me the main issue is the bunching around the arms and shoulders but I am not sure of what measurements to adjust and by how much. I also find the collar points very long (this was the default luxire bd collar). Can anyone suggest a collar that is more casual - not as tall and with shorter points?

There is a thread where real tailors give their advice on garments. You may have luck posting there, although the thread isn't too active (I guess those tailors are busy, you know, tailoring.)

In my decidedly novice opinion:

Cuffs are too large, could be reduced (wash the shirt a few times before you decide how much, cuffs tend to shrink a bit)
Hip measurement should be increased
The angle of your shoulders is off. Try shrugging up to see if those diagonal creases go away. If so, your shirt needs to have more sloping shoulders
It also looks like your left shoulder is pulled back and your right shoulder is more forward, but this could just be the way you're standing in the pics

Best bet is probably to post in that thread and to send these to Luxire for their comments.

 

[richhomiequalm]

Hey all,

I am trying to fix the dreaded wedgie, and among other suggestions, Luxire recommends that I "adjust the back rise with iron."

I will heed their advice but I am curious what this means from a tailoring perspective. Anybody have insight? Thanks

 

[shirtsnob]

rich.........

when were the pants made?..I had thought Lux corrected this wedgie thing

did u send in measurements or a pr. of pants to replicate?


adjust w/ iron?....

hmm,, either manually iron out the wrinkles?( makes no sense)....or add iron weights to crotch area to add ballast?( makes less sense)...yikes........lol

 

[richhomiequalm]

@shirtsnob This pair just arrived. Perhaps the new pattern fixes 90% of wedgies and I just have a weird body, not going to think about it haha.

I sent measurements. This is my third attempt and it’s a shame because they are spot on everywhere else. Also, this last iteration is as much as 1.25” looser in all the top block numbers than my loosest pants, and I have much slimmer pairs that don’t give a wedgie so I’m baffled...

Maybe I’ll have iron washers lining my crotch seam??

 

[shirtsnob]

samco.....your collar looks big yes, but I also think it may just be too large size wise for your neck...re measure.

I have the default bd, the kamakura bd and a custom spread bd....love them all.....your default looks floppy

i say try the kama.....its neater and shorter .....but has more spread than the default

also try to find a collar they have on a blue oxford..its a bit smaller and fashion forward..but its nice....Ill try to find it..here it is..its smaller proportions but still very nice and not too hipster ish....

 

[shirtsnob]

@shirtsnob This pair just arrived. Perhaps the new pattern fixes 90% of wedgies and I just have a weird body, not going to think about it haha.

I sent measurements. This is my third attempt and it’s a shame because they are spot on everywhere else. Also, this last iteration is as much as 1.25” looser in all the top block numbers than my loosest pants, and I have much slimmer pairs that don’t give a wedgie so I’m baffled...

Maybe I’ll have iron washers lining my crotch seam??

thats a bummer...I wanted to get some slacks made but Im concerned over this "wedgie" issue.......yet many, maybe most have no issues.....any pics to share?????

if you look at these pants laying flat vs a pr that fit better is the "seat shape" clearly different?...you know, like where your cheeks would sit?

the measurement labeled H is the issue I would guess...and the overall shape of it.


http://www.thecustomtailors.com/how_to_measure_your_own_trouser

 

[Andy_00]

thats a bummer...I wanted to get some slacks made but Im concerned over this "wedgie" issue.......yet many, maybe most have no issues.....any pics to share?????

if you look at these pants laying flat vs a pr that fit better is the "seat shape" clearly different?...you know, like where your cheeks would sit?

the measurement labeled H is the issue I would guess...and the overall shape of it.


http://www.thecustomtailors.com/how_to_measure_your_own_trouser

I have been having this issue for ages with Luxire pants, but my version might be different to other people’s and specific to my hips forward posture. For me, the problem seems likely to be that the ‘fork’ quantity is insufficient, by which I mean the part of the seat seam that runs under the crotch from under the fly to somewhere under the base of the seat. The length of this section of the seam is much shorter on Luxire pants than any others. You might want to look in this area.

Therefore, when I copy a rise measurement from a pair that fits well, there is pulling under the crotch on the Luxire pants but excess looseness around the lower seat (given that the cloth must bunch somewhere if the rise is the same). So, the end result is that they feel somehow too loose and too tight at the same time. This is the same even after sending some pants for replication.

It’s been a slow process trying to get a resolution of this with Luxire. I had been hoping that they could advise about pattern changes when I showed pictures and described the fit problems. However, they just seem to deal in terms of specific measurement changes like +1cm hips, -1cm front rise, etc. They want me to provide precise instructions of this type, but it’s difficult when the issue is more about balance or the shape of seam curves, etc, and I am just an ignorant amateur. Still trying though.... I guess Luxire is fine if the fundamental pattern works well and you can just adjust basic measurements. It’s therefore, in terms of fit, much more like mtm and nothing like iterative bespoke.

 

[richhomiequalm]

@shirtsnob @Andy_00 This sounds very similar to my experience. I would also guess (without having any formal education in tailoring or patternmaking) that it seems like an issue of fork quantity. If you were to cut the pants sagittally, they seem to narrow to more of a V-shape where the front and back rise meet at the crotch, instead of a roomier U-shape.

Attached a couple pics of mine. Disregard the Thom Browne-esque inseam, these were meant to have no break with a pair of chukkas and look rather cropped without them. Also, they are a very lightweight chino cloth so a heavier wool would probably drape a bit smoother.

Anyway, since the first two versions, I scooped the seat and increased the back rise at crotch. It's definitely less severe than the earlier pairs, but you can still see bunching at the crotch and a wedgie, despite simultaneously being roomy in the seat. In my latest correspondence I suggested increasing the thighs to alleviate the wrinkling in the front, but they think it's unnecessary. So aside from this mysterious "iron" adjustment I'm kind of at a loss for what to do...

 

[Andy_00]

Yes, when I compare Luxire pants in a cross section with other pants, the main thing I notice is that the crotch is in a deep V shape, rather than a flat-bottomed basin shape. So I think this is what is causing the pulling. It puzzled me why they would be tight at the crotch but still a bit loose at the seat, but I think that is because the V shape crotch means that they are not being worn as high on the hips or waist as they would otherwise be.

If you have a similar problem to mine, you would find the problem particularly acute when walking (pulling from the outside of the knee through the crotch) or sitting (crotch pulls rear waistband down).

I also think there is some issue to do with the balance and seat angle. When i compare the `Luxire pants to the ones they were replicated fro, the Luxire ones feel higher at the front waist and lower at the back.

 

[richhomiequalm]

Yes, when I compare Luxire pants in a cross section with other pants, the main thing I notice is that the crotch is in a deep V shape, rather than a flat-bottomed basin shape. So I think this is what is causing the pulling. It puzzled me why they would be tight at the crotch but still a bit loose at the seat, but I think that is because the V shape crotch means that they are not being worn as high on the hips or waist as they would otherwise be.

If you have a similar problem to mine, you would find the problem particularly acute when walking (pulling from the outside of the knee through the crotch) or sitting (crotch pulls rear waistband down).

I also think there is some issue to do with the balance and seat angle. When i compare the `Luxire pants to the ones they were replicated fro, the Luxire ones feel higher at the front waist and lower at the back.

Yep, I think with true bespoke there would be some sort of swayback/swayfront angle compensation that would make the more tapered V-shape wearable, but in lieu of that, a roomier depth would make me happy. I found an interesting blogpost/comment chain with input from a few patternmakers on this problem as it pertains to womenswear:

http://madalynne.com/pattern-making-pant-rise/

Not that I don't trust/appreciate the people I currently speak to at Luxire, but I wonder if we could get one of the higher-ups to chime in on this thread and tell us how we can better articulate this problem in the notes on orders?

 

[Andy_00]

I agree. Other mtm offerings seem to deal with common figuration issues with a set of out-of-the-box adjustments for things like sloping shoulders, flat seat, sway back, etc. Whilst it wouldn’t deal perfectly with every issue, it would at least be a more straightforward way of having a discussion about figuration adjustments and one could imagine useful pictorial guides accompanying such options on the website.

I have also spent a fair while reading the online ‘muslin mummies’ trying to understand these issues...

 

[Andy_00]

Yep, I think with true bespoke there would be some sort of swayback/swayfront angle compensation that would make the more tapered V-shape wearable, but in lieu of that, a roomier depth would make me happy.

Also, I remember that the advice initially given to my by Luxire about my problem, and for others I have seen on this thread, was to ‘decrease the inseam at the crotch’. That always sounded strange as it would simply work to create even more of a V shape assuming the length of the rise remained the same.

 

[samco]

Thanks all for your advice. For the comment about the collar measurement being too big I have added a photo of the collar buttoned to the imgur album. To me I thought this was the correct fit but I could go slightly smaller.

https://imgur.com/a/gokTe