Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luxire, Jun 20, 2012.
Too tight in the thighs and leg opening, and half an inch too short, but not bad at all.
@Monkeyface, out of curiosity, how did you come to this judgement? Is it the disappearance of the vertical creases near the crotch? The leg opening, is it about proportions?
I think the leg opening looks great for the look he's going for, but I agree with MF about the thighs. There seems to be a bit of straining. It might have something to do with the pose. It's a great outfit though!
I agree with the thigh and the length; higher rise pants needs a minimal break IMO.
The vertical lines in the crotch, and the fact that I can clearly see the outline of his quads. It also seems like his pleats are permanently open. Adding half an inch to an inch (depending on his length/weight) throughout the entire leg will make them much more comfortable, and will make them drape better as well. The leg openings are just about proportions. They don't even reach the lacing of the shoes, making his feet appear bigger than they are. Think clown shoes. They're also slightly too short, as they're hovering above the shoe. Add half an inch and you'll have perfect no break trousers.
Like I said, they're not bad, but a couple of minor adjustments will make them excellent. If it was RTW I'd say it's very good, but with MTM you should really aim for perfection. It has taken me 4 tries to get a nearly perfect pair of Luxire pants, but in the end it was worth it.
Skinny trousers like these only look good on people who actually are super skinny. It's also a more feminine than a masculine look imho. There's nothing wrong with that, but you have make sure that that is what you want. I used to get skinny pants as well, mainly because that was the only thing that was available, but slightly more relaxed trousers look so much better and are a hell of a lot more comfortable.
^ Also lots of horizontal pulling across the hips. Probably should be increased as well for a cleaner drape.
Can anyone compare the colors of the two pale blue poplins, i.e. 2/100 and 140/2. On the web, 140/2 is lighter, but from the swatches I've received, the 140/2 is darker. Thanks.
The chest on the blue shirt does seem to flare out, but i'm not sure from where. You may not need the extra. Without knowing which creases you're referring to, I'm not quite sure. I think you may be referring to the issue of the angle at which the sleeves are attached at. The fit may feel good for you, but it's preventing a clean drape. I can't pinpoint the exact causes for you, so that's merely a guess on my part. I was hoping other people would jump in as well. As usual, check with Theresa for the best results.
Thanks, @EFV , that is just the kind of picture that I was looking for. I have to say, that is a good roll! Unfortunately, a good roll is not enough for a thrill.
What do you think @luxire , is it possible to achieve a roll like the one bellow? For my untrained eye, the collar bellow seems to have longer leafs and further placed buttons.
Thank you very much for the hints. I marked the crinkles in the pictures below. On the green shirt they are, lets say, acceptable, but on the blue they're definitely too big. The what do you mean with "flare out"? I increased only the back measurement by 0.5", not the chest. When I lean forward in the green striped shirt, the fabric tensions over my back (especially at the sides at my lat).
How could I advice Luxire that they should keep the sleeves slim? There are only 2 (or 3) measurements but the don't define the width at the middle of the sleeve. The sleeves got on both shirts too bulky. On the green striped they fit now quite good because I send it back to Luxire to change that. I referenced to this changes when I ordered the new shirt but they're too big again.
Yeah, of course I already wrote Theresa an email but lately it takes (very) long till she replies. In the early times (at my first order a few months ago) she answered very fast but now sometimes it takes very long or I get no reply and that's annoying because I want to get a nice linen summer shirt till the end of August at least.
Just measure a button down collar you currently have. Let's say the buttons are 10cm apart. Just add as much as you like, that's how wide the spread is going to be. Also specify how far the buttons are away from the collar band. Last thing you want to specify is longer collar points. Here's how I replicated a Kamakura collar, and the outcome. I'm going to ask for slightly longer collar points and a slightly wider spread next time though.
Luxire default BD collar with 3.75 inches collar point and 1.875 band height
How do you relay all this information when you are ordering a shirt?
Very nice! What is the order number, if you don't mind? Or is it already added to the collar sheet?
I sent those two pictures with the collar measurements. The Luxire collar is standard, so just ask for that one. Mine is in the googldoc, as are many other BD collars.
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