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Beatlegeuse

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^ I agree with this. I still like my 7089, but if I could do it over I'd probably get something with some more texture. I'm finding I like worsted wool less and less, I'm much more interested in something with a little surface interest...Birdseye, pick-and-pick, hopsack, etc. Any new suit I get from here on out will certainly have some sort of texture to it.
 

Flyswatter

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I'm finding I like worsted wool less and less, I'm much more interested in something with a little surface interest...Birdseye, pick-and-pick, hopsack, etc. Any new suit I get from here on out will certainly have some sort of texture to it.


My thoughts exactly. Plus, if you opt for a navy fabric with texture and go for brown horn buttons and patch hip pockets, the jacket could easily double as a sport coat.

Here's a very crappy pic from my latest wearing of my 7089 suit:

700
 

lightnnj

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Question for any of the above who own a KW suit; what are your thoughts on armhole size. I’ve tried on both KW charcoal trial suit and the herringbone RTW jacket and while very close to a great fit in both, my one holdup from ordering is the armhole diameter is huge. Best change KW can make is -1 cm to the armhole and -2 cm to the bicep (would amount to roughly a -1.75 cm change in the armhole area overall since the bicep -2cm change would impact that). However, since the original armhole clocks in at 26 cm, a -1.75 cm decrease would be still quite minimal. Any complaints from suit owners on this? Noticed roughly 15 posts back “ripdendroica” was complaining about the same but did mention that KW might be trying to come out with a new model that has smaller armholes? “Rip” also mentions that Aaron measured the trial jacket at 11”, does that not seem huge?
 

Kent Wang

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For all measurements we go by diameter, not circumference. The armhole on the size 36 jacket is around 4.75" diameter or 9.5" circumference. The most we can do is -2 cm (-1 cm armhole plus another -1 cm from reducing the bicep), which results in 4" diameter, 8" circumference, which is certainly very small. A few very thin customers have found this comfortable but many others find this too high.

If you compare to other slim brands like Ralph Lauren Black Label, Brooks Brothers Black Fleece, or even H&M you'll find it to be quite similar—certainly not huge by any means. You may have felt the armhole to be loose because the chest was loose, but that's another measurement entirely, which of course we can also adjust.
 
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CousinDonuts

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That sounds like the first suit I got with KW - dark blue but not quite navy. Is this the one you're thinking of? See below for the pic I originally posted a while ago. The fabric number for this was TR7089

1000



7089 is navy
7087 is blue

I do indeed have a suit in TR7089, and decided on that fabric based on photos in this thread. It's a nice fabric, but actually ended up being a bit darker than I hoped and expected. I'd call it "navy" or even "dark navy", but I guess we all have different ideas of how dark "dark" is. :laugh: If I could do it over again, I'd go with TR7121 or AR0021. These are pick-and-picks, which I've really come to appreciate in navy for the slight texture.


That is the picture I was looking for, and this is good add-on info. Thanks guys.


Question for any of the above who own a KW suit; what are your thoughts on armhole size. I’ve tried on both KW charcoal trial suit and the herringbone RTW jacket and while very close to a great fit in both, my one holdup from ordering is the armhole diameter is huge. Best change KW can make is -1 cm to the armhole and -2 cm to the bicep (would amount to roughly a -1.75 cm change in the armhole area overall since the bicep -2cm change would impact that). However, since the original armhole clocks in at 26 cm, a -1.75 cm decrease would be still quite minimal. Any complaints from suit owners on this? Noticed roughly 15 posts back “ripdendroica” was complaining about the same but did mention that KW might be trying to come out with a new model that has smaller armholes? “Rip” also mentions that Aaron measured the trial jacket at 11”, does that not seem huge?  


I made that armhole adjustment and have been happy with it. I do not have body builder arms at all, and I find that the armhole is high enough. That's a tough one though, cause my ok could be your loose, or someone else's tight.
 

lightnnj

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Kent, my measurements were all based of a 40. The 26 cm measurement was diameter ~ 10.25", and taking it down to a 24 cm armhole would still leave a roughly ~9.5" armhole. And yeah, huge is a relative term, but when the biggest armhole in my closet is 23 cm diameter, and most are around 20-22, I guess it is quite noticeable for me. Thanks for chiming in.
 

rc121

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just wanted to chime in on my experience with Kent's MTO. I initially contacted Kent a little over two months before I would need the suit (for my wedding). I explained the time frame and was assured that it would be done a few weeks prior. I received the first trial suit and Kent determined from looking at the pictures that I needed to try on the next smaller sized jacket. So there was a little more delay in submitting the order, as I needed to wait for another customer to send me the jacket. Kent looked at all my pictures and made recommendations, then submitted the order.

While I was initially told the suit would be done about 3 weeks prior to my wedding, the added delay of getting a different sized trial jacket cut that time frame down. Kent explained that it might be necessary for expedited and told him that would be fine. About two weeks later Kent emailed me to follow up on the exact day that I needed the suit, and then stated that it might not be ready by the original estimated date but that they would take care of the expedited shipping.

In the end, I received the suit about a week and a half prior to the wedding and it was practically perfect. My one regret was not listening to Kent's original recommendation to shorten the sleeves an additional 1.5 cm, as I thought they might be too short. That was the only adjustment I had to have my tailor make. If I needed more suits, I would not hesitate to order through Kent again.
 

Beatlegeuse

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RE: armhole size, I actually thought the armholes on the trial jacket were too small, so I had them adjusted bigger on my MTM suit, and I was very happy with the result. In the pic I posted yesterday, you can see I'm a relatively slim dude, but I'm certainly not skinny. I guess my bicep/chest/back area was a little too big to squeeze into the stock size armholes on the trial suit.
 

erk

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RE: armhole size, I actually thought the armholes on the trial jacket were too small, so I had them adjusted bigger on my MTM suit, and I was very happy with the result. In the pic I posted yesterday, you can see I'm a relatively slim dude, but I'm certainly not skinny. I guess my bicep/chest/back area was a little too big to squeeze into the stock size armholes on the trial suit.


Interesting. I've had a Kent Wang custom shirt made a couple years ago and found the bicep/elbows/forearms of the trial shirt (I think 16.5) were really small. At the time I was a cyclist and didn't have anything approaching "guns".
 

lightnnj

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Just got my first pair of KW MTM trousers in yesterday and for an MTM first try they are perfect. Nailed every last detail and even though Aaron questioned the high rise I requested (+4 cm) because he had to be worried it would be too big of a change from the base model, they fit perfect. Going to play a little with the leg opening but other than that will not change a thing. Now I'm going to have to pull the trigger on a bunch more and get a suit started too_Only complaint is the inner waist band button already broke, but that happens.
 

mrjester

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Does anybody have pictures of a Navy sports coat in the wild?

I presume the cloth to choose is 'Plain Navy', does anyone have other suggestions for basic navy SC?

Kent had the idea that a blazer should have some texture. He suggested this fabric (I forgot what number, but if you look at my posts in this thread or email him, you'll see it).













 

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