Help a noob: Problem: (My) Wedding suit

[CunningSmeagol]

Also, you have plenty of time to get ThePerfectMediumGraySuit for $500. Not sure if this matters (there is analysis to be done, for sure, but I don't have time). If the RL stuff fits you well, you can hit them during a sale for your suiting needs. Just a thought.

 

[HPress]

I third the perfect-fitting-med-gray-suit route. No use in wasting 1-2k on a costume you're going to wear for a few hours.

 

[riddler]

Tux is a safe choice for me. Folks read correctly that I don't own a suit and work doesn't require one (yet). I'll probably get a gray suit in a bit anyway.

Just a quick update:

I went to Ralph Lauren Black Label and they had a well fitting tux for me (size 40) for 2150. I also went to Brooks Brothers where they showed me their "Golden fleece" tux. The BB tux was cheaper (1600) but the fit was less aggressive. Other stores were closed. I'll likely finalize the Ralph Lauren deal tomorrow. I feel like I could get the same item cheaper with better timing but alas that is not an option for me.

Any more thoughts?

 

[CunningSmeagol]

They didn't have a Polo version?

The BBGF one will be less aggressive for sure, but some might say timeless. Polo Black Label is aggressive and slim. It will be distinctive. I don't know if you want this. The fit is also more difficult depending on body type.

Both items you looked at are good quality, and properly fitting, they will look good. At this point it's a matter of styling and money. You're going to be wearing this thing in a ton of pictures. Do you want to remember yourself as aggressive and fashion forward or classic (assuming these descriptors are accurate)?

If it were me I'd take a second look at the BBGF. A fuller cut is less prone to divots and pulls, and can in some ways present a cleaner look. That's why I suggested RL Blue Label (Polo), which is cut fuller than Black Label.

If you are a slim guy, however, the Black Label might be a great fit without any of the issues a lot of guys on this board have trying to stuff themselves into a too small suit. SkinnyGoombah wears Black Label stuff well, but he's skinny.

 

[SkinnyGoomba]

Riddler, suggest that you're interested in 'Give in Style'.

I'd go for the Fairfax polo model and just tuck in the pocket flaps. The things that irk me about the BL tux are the uncovered buttons, the buttons on the polo suit are covered and the pants are pleated with side adjusters. I wouldn't wear a BL suit to something where I wanted to admire the pics for years I would wear Polo, or better yet I would wear whats appropriate for a wedding during the day

 

[CunningSmeagol]

Also, what are the configurations like on each? Peak/Notch/Shawl, Pleats, Satin/Grosgrain trim. You can tip the scale one way or the other based on your preferences in these. You can also nitpick yourself to death, but you don't have time, so it's not worth the stress - they're all acceptable, and RL or BB wouldn't be putting something out there that wasn't (AFAIK).

What are you doing for shirt/collar and vest or cummerbund?

 

[bringusingoodale]

Dammmnn 2100 dollars for a tux you probably only will wear once?

And you probably haven't decided on what collar/shirt to wear with it.

Have them throw in something for free, please for the sake of trying to quash the monster of having paid for retail.

 

[unjung]

You are probably a 40R. If you buy a tux and then want to dump it, let me know.

 

[riddler]

Both are shawl. The RL version has no pleats while the BB version has pleats. I'll have to ask about "Satin/Grosgrain trim" as I'm not sure what they mean.

I have to re-check the RL Polo section as I remember them having something very close to BB.

On the vest/cummerbund front the RL salesman suggested that the RL Black Label design philosophy is rooted in minimalism so adding a vest will go against it. However, he said I could add it myself if I wanted though they don't carry them.

Still working on shirt/collar decisions but they need not be as rushed.

 

[GBR]

You are taking the Hugo Boss to clean the toilets with are you?

You have no other choice but RTW.

 

[robdpittman]

Check out Silvio Bresciani on 42nd between Broadway and Bryant Park. I got a beautiful tux (off the peg, but tailored) for just under 2k. I also have a suit from there which I'm very happy with.

It's just a small shop that I stumbled upon once while in the city, but I've been back several times after my first experience.

 

[CunningSmeagol]

Originally Posted by riddler

Both are shawl. The RL version has no pleats while the BB version has pleats. I'll have to ask about "Satin/Grosgrain trim" as I'm not sure what they mean.

I have to re-check the RL Polo section as I remember them having something very close to BB.

On the vest/cummerbund front the RL salesman suggested that the RL Black Label design philosophy is rooted in minimalism so adding a vest will go against it. However, he said I could add it myself if I wanted though they don't carry them.

Still working on shirt/collar decisions but they need not be as rushed.

I'm surprised RL doesn't have vests or cummerbunds. I'm sure they could order one if you needed. BB or J Press probably would. Failing that, Paul Stuart might have something. Shouldn't be hard to find in NYC.

Satin vs Grosgrain is just the weave of the lapel facings. You could think about matching this with your vest/cummerbund and tie. Grosgrain has a ribbed texture, Satin is shiny.

Your primary concern before all of this, though, should be fit. Make sure the sleeves hang freely while you're standing naturally, that the shoulder line is graceful, that the fabric isn't strained or pulling anywhere. You get a lot of these issues when you try to wear something too small.

For tailoring, shorten the sleeves to show a sliver of cuff, don't go crazy on waist suppression, and hem the pants cleanly with very little break.

 

[Johnny24]

If you have time for a day trip to Boston go to Keezer's near Cambridge. They have a ton of great new and used tuxs that many Harvard types get rid of and also stuff they bought out from retailers looking to off load new stuff. The store is a gem, I am planing on going up in Dec from MD and having a look around while I visit a friend in the area.

If you have the money to burn on a Ralph tuxedo from any line I say go for it, just make sure you stick to a one button peak or shawl collar, I have seen a few two button notches come out of the RL line recently (sadly on the midnight blue option of all things).

As for someone mentioning Boss and others bagging on it......If you are looking for a one off item at a decent price look at the Cary Grant model from them. I have seen it in Nordstrom Rack for about 70% off retail recently, and at that price you are getting a solid deal on a peak lapel, one button, **** pocket tuxedo made from super 100's that will most likely need minor tailoring when bought given your height and weight. I also picked one up myself the other day but it was a 38R and I am a 40R, I could have made it work but the shoulders were a bit rumpled/rolled due to the jacket being a bit tight and my frame being pretty well muscled.

If you got one of those for about $250-$350 on the time crunch you are on I would say you got a deal. I highly doubt anyone will look at your wedding pictures and say "Oh my god, do you see that well fitting classic style tuxedo the groom is wearing? You can just tell that is a fused number from Hugo Boss by the way the light hits it, he should have spent a house and car payment and honeymoon cash on a Purple or Black label tuxedo because people at SF will know the difference".

 

[Johnny24]

The lapel facings should match the cumberbund/bow tie according to the rules of black tie, and that I totally agree with because it presents a uniform contrast to the wool. As for the type of facings, I think Satin is the better choice, which some if not many SF posters will disagree with but personally if I am wearing a tuxedo, I want it to look like a tuxedo. Grosgrain just looks dull to me and I have never liked it, I think it just looks like a black suit and everyone on SF knows how well black suits outside of a funeral go over

 

[makewayhomer]

Keezars has about 90 Paul Stuart classically styled tux's for $475 right now