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Need help with my wedding suit

fabiotel

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Hi everybody,

as I've been struggling quite a lot with finding a suit for my wedding (which is in 6 weeks) I thought it would be a good idea to post a thread in this forum. Until now, this suit is the one that fits me better - however, I'm not 100% happy about the shoulders. The suit is from Boss (I know the brand is not very popular in this forum, but consider that I live in Germany and many brands that can usually be purchased in the US are not easy to get here), the fabric is made by Trabaldo Togna (virgin wool 120s).

I'm a very slim guy (usually between a 46 and 48), most suits tend to look too large on me. This one has an extra slim fit cut. What do you honestly think about the shoulders? It feels like my shoulders can't quite fill the space under the shoulder padding. Should I take it to a tailor and ask to get the shoulder line 1 cm narrower?

Thanks a lot for your help!
 

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Phileas Fogg

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I’m not a tailor but I think thats a good idea. It may be something as simple as adjusting the shoulder padding.

p.s. nothing wrong with Hugo Boss. Don’t worry about the brand. Focus on fit. Congratulations.
 

dieworkwear

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The suit already looks very slim and short. The divots you see in the sleeveheads are likely from the coat having an overly narrow back. You don't want to narrow the shoulders, but rather let out the coat along the back seam. If you narrow the coat further, you will get even more severe divots.

IMG_20210613_094713.jpeg
 
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LessIsMore233

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The suit already looks very slim and short. The divots you see in the sleeveheads are likely from the coat having an overly narrow back. You don't want to narrow the shoulders, but rather let out the coat along the back seam. If you narrow the coat further, you will get even more severe divots.
can't believe u r that pro :eek:
and I believe that u r right! :slayer:
 

fabiotel

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p.s. nothing wrong with Hugo Boss. Don’t worry about the brand. Focus on fit. Congratulations.
Thanks :)

The suit already looks very slim and short. The divots you see in the sleeveheads are likely from the coat having an overly narrow back. You don't want to narrow the shoulders, but rather let out the coat along the back seam. If you narrow the coat further, you will get even more severe divots.
Thanks a lot for the answer and explanation! Is this something I can trust every decent tailor with ? Or rather a complex thing (and expensive I assume...) only very skilled tailor can adjust?
 

dieworkwear

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Thanks a lot for the answer and explanation! Is this something I can trust every decent tailor with ? Or rather a complex thing (and expensive I assume...) only very skilled tailor can adjust?
It's a very simple alteration.

You may also want to let out the sleeves on your jacket. Only about a quarter to half an inch of shirt cuff should show.
 

rjc149

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Generally speaking it's better to err on the side of broader shoulders rather than narrower. They build up your shoulders/chest which is a more flattering, masculine V appearance. This is one of the reasons we look more handsome in suits.

I'm not a tailor nor an expert, but I think the shoulder width looks good on you. I would be wary of the small shirt collars, however. They will make your head appear larger. This isn't an issue if your head is smaller, but if you're skinny, you don't want to accentuate your head.
 

dieworkwear

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Generally speaking it's better to err on the side of broader shoulders rather than narrower. They build up your shoulders/chest which is a more flattering, masculine V appearance. This is one of the reasons we look more handsome in suits.

I'm not a tailor nor an expert, but I think the shoulder width looks good on you. I would be wary of the small shirt collars, however. They will make your head appear larger. This isn't an issue if your head is smaller, but if you're skinny, you don't want to accentuate your head.
I think the problem is that the shirt collar goes with the other proportions of the suit.

I don't care for the suit's silhouette. The sleeves are too short, the jacket is too short, the pants are too slim, and the lapels too narrow. Everything about the suit looks shrunken. So, in that case, the collar fits the general aesthetic. It's a very 2010 Thom Browne type look. .

I think the OP would do better in a more classic cut. There are many possibilities for a suit silhouette. Some posts he may find useful:





I think the outfit would look better with more classic proportions. Like this:

tumblr_nzzwspxpAF1rf1jvro1_1280.jpeg



But at the very least, don't narrow or shrink the suit further. There are already divots in the sleevehead, and narrowing the shoulders will just worsen the divots. The point of a suit is not to recreate your body, but to flatter the shape. Your shoulders don't have to fill the entire space.

The wedding is in six weeks. I think there's still time to find a new suit and have it altered. Go to a classic menswear shop that sells high-quality suits. Don't go to a fashion boutique. Find someone who can give you good advice and fit you in something classic.
 

fabiotel

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I think the problem is that the shirt collar goes with the other proportions of the suit.

I don't care for the suit's silhouette. The sleeves are too short, the jacket is too short, the pants are too slim, and the lapels too narrow. Everything about the suit looks shrunken. So, in that case, the collar fits the general aesthetic. It's a very 2010 Thom Browne type look. .

I think the OP would do better in a more classic cut. There are many possibilities for a suit silhouette. Some posts he may find useful:





I think the outfit would look better with more classic proportions. Like this:


But at the very least, don't narrow or shrink the suit further. There are already divots in the sleevehead, and narrowing the shoulders will just worsen the divots. The point of a suit is not to recreate your body, but to flatter the shape. Your shoulders don't have to fill the entire space.

The wedding is in six weeks. I think there's still time to find a new suit and have it altered. Go to a classic menswear shop that sells high-quality suits. Don't go to a fashion boutique. Find someone who can give you good advice and fit you in something classic.
Thanks a lot for your help, appreciate it. I'll keep looking intensively the next few days and weeks, got an appointment at Suitsupply tomorrow to start with.
Concerning the shirt: I actually agree, I just ordered it together with the suit to give it a try (there was a Hugo Boss sale last week) but I find the collar to be too small.
 

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