• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • UNIFORM LA CHILLICOTHE WORK JACKET Drop, going on right now.

    Uniform LA's Chillicothe Work Jacket is an elevated take on the classic Detroit Work Jacket. Made of ultra-premium 14-ounce Japanese canvas, it has been meticulously washed and hand distressed to replicate vintage workwear that’s been worn for years, and available in three colors.

    This just dropped today. If you missed out on the preorder, there are some sizes left, but they won't be around for long. Check out the remaining stock here

    Good luck!.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

coolarrow

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2012
Messages
2,624
Reaction score
5,530
My Grant Stone shoes and boots are made in China. The father and grandfather of the young guy who owns/runs the company both worked for Alden for many years - his grandfather retired last year after 60 (!!) years with them. His products are easily equal or better in quality and consistently better in execution. Country is less important than who's running the place ;)

Then why not make the shoes in the US? I can think of some distressed areas like Appalachia, Mississippi, or S. Texas that could use some manufacturing jobs. I've seen the prices of grant stones. Last I checked they were around $300. That's too high for Made in China shoes. I pay the alden premium to know that I'm supporting US jobs. Seems like a money grab by the owners by getting some cheap labor.

Just my opinion and I could be wrong.
 

TinMan3

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2017
Messages
1,146
Reaction score
1,414
I get your point as well, but unlike Filson you can definitively say as a matter of fact that the quality is slightly at most, unchanged, because of your passionate knowledge and the information being readily available. Filson is a strong passion of mine but they aren’t very forthcoming of their business in Vietnam. I posted awhile back the claims from their CS Dept stating the main motivation was purely making sure the price of material doesn’t price out the average consumer (in not so many words). So with Filson I can only speculate until I can have a look-see at their newly offshore operation and assembly

Filson, a relatively newer luggage company (less than 30 years) has only two attempts at Ballistic Nylon. So I would call this an improvement from the Passage Line, but a serious downgrade in quality when compared to their staples. I would however still consider one over say a Tumi.
Idk, I have handled quite a few of these ballistic nylon bags, and the leather on them is just not the same quality as their USA made bags. It seems like it’s still bridle leather, but I consistently see the lighter stuff that makes me shiver to think about how it will age. I think it’s a decent business move to incorporate a briefcase for those who don’t want to spend 300+ on a briefcase, but would have liked to see a bit different execution.
 

M635Guy

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2015
Messages
8,957
Reaction score
23,855
Then why not make the shoes in the US? I can think of some distressed areas like Appalachia, Mississippi, or S. Texas that could use some manufacturing jobs. I've seen the prices of grant stones. Last I checked they were around $300. That's too high for Made in China shoes. I pay the alden premium to know that I'm supporting US jobs. Seems like a money grab by the owners by getting some cheap labor.

Just my opinion and I could be wrong.
Having gotten to know the guy a bit and knowing their story, that's definitely not what's going on. The world isn't generally on a cost plus business model, and it's funny how few people squawk about the low prices of shoes made in Mexico, Portugal, Spain, etc. Xiamen is a pretty amazing city with a very high standard (and cost) of living, and their factory pretty clearly not a sweatshop. Starting something like that in Appalachia, Mississippi, or S. Texas would take a massive investment and a lot of time/training/etc. to get anywhere close - there's no established skillbase there. And frankly, Alden seems to be the only one that can command those kinds of prices. AE is on the Jos. A. Bank continuous-sales model and they keep chipping away at their quality and QC.

Net for me - they make a great product without cutting corners, they have high standards/QC and their value is outstanding.
 

speedy611

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2015
Messages
1,271
Reaction score
1,619
I got tired of the bug entrails on my engineers after a summer of riding. One thing led to another and before long I had the entire RW congregation (a collection of soles...?) out for a clean.

641AAD64-2E05-432F-8B44-CBBB58CBE271.jpeg


Like Filson bags, each of these has its own character and I really like wearing all of them.
No special products here- just a neutral soft wax to soak in and then a buff for a little shine.

#winteriscoming
 

OtterMeanGreen

Distinguished Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2017
Messages
5,162
Reaction score
3,090
Idk, I have handled quite a few of these ballistic nylon bags, and the leather on them is just not the same quality as their USA made bags. It seems like it’s still bridle leather, but I consistently see the lighter stuff that makes me shiver to think about how it will age. I think it’s a decent business move to incorporate a briefcase for those who don’t want to spend 300+ on a briefcase, but would have liked to see a bit different execution.

I have yet to feel a Filson Ballistic Nylon Bag, but I can see it’s place in the market. Like I said above, I respect Filson finally getting it right and redeeming themselves from the Passage Line. However like you mentioned about the leather and like I said about the zipper quality, it’s these that will fail eventually and that’s a shame better materials wasn’t implemented at that price point
 

M635Guy

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2015
Messages
8,957
Reaction score
23,855
Ah, the process of de-musting. The best piece of advice I can give you? Be patient (and have another bag to carry for a while)

Buy a handle of cheap vodka and a spray bottle. Spray it liberally. Set it in the sun. Repeat, Repeat, Repeat.

Buy activated carbon - put it in some old socks. Put it in your bag. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat.

Turn the bag inside out. Spray it liberally again with cheap vodka. Set it in the sun. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. (make sure you get ALL the crevices.

Don't worry too much about the leather as you can use some obenaufs right after and the leather will pop back to looking great.

If you get super frustrated to the point where the smell won't go away (after WEEKS of effort), throw the damn thing in the washing machine with some old towels. Dry it on high. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat.

This last step is a last resort because it definitely takes some of the waxiness away, but it's where I got to with my zippered tote. It's now at a bearable state.

Thanks for all this. It's funny - I think just being out and used has helped.

I got a cheap-o bottle of vodka and some activated carbon on Friday. Starting this Wednesday I'm going to be travelling until 9/28, so not too much time to mess with it. I'm still deciding what I'm taking with me on the trip, but leaning Filson...
 

Soletrane

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 15, 2015
Messages
1,284
Reaction score
820
I think shifting production overseas for a US company is almost always correlated with cost-cutting so that they are often seen as synonymous. But to M635Guy’s point, it doesn’t have to be that way if the company is willing to invest in the same materials, worker training, production quotas, equipment as in the original US factory. But the temptation to cut corners and save even more money is very strong (beyond just the lower overseas labor cost).

I do think Filson could make a bag in China (from the historically US and UK sourced material) equal to the quality to the production of its 90s heyday. After all, they are just making simple soft luggage not Patek Minute Repeaters or something. But why should they (from their perspective)? They are selling more now than ever through better marketing. And the number of previous customers who remember buying the “good stuff” from 15-20 years ago are now mostly middle-aged or older and aging out of their target market.
 

OtterMeanGreen

Distinguished Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2017
Messages
5,162
Reaction score
3,090
I think shifting production overseas for a US company is almost always correlated with cost-cutting so that they are often seen as synonymous. But to M635Guy’s point, it doesn’t have to be that way if the company is willing to invest in the same materials, worker training, production quotas, equipment as in the original US factory. But the temptation to cut corners and save even more money is very strong (beyond just the lower overseas labor cost).

I do think Filson could make a bag in China (from the historically US and UK sourced material) equal to the quality to the production of its 90s heyday. After all, they are just making simple soft luggage not Patek Minute Repeaters or something. But why should they (from their perspective)? They are selling more now than ever through better marketing. And the number of previous customers who remember buying the “good stuff” from 15-20 years ago are now mostly middle-aged or older and aging out of their target market.

That is why I bless the secondary market like eBay or Craigslist. @GzStudio is like the Pope and I a humble priest just looking for a decent pair of crucifix
 

Emthigious

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2013
Messages
64
Reaction score
70
So are you guys saying that I shouldn't buy a new original briefcase, but look out for a second hand one? Trouble is that the secondary market here in NL is quite small. However, a new 256 would run me about $450 which is also bonkers. Alternatively I could buy one from the bay and pay for shipping over here.
 

Pete E

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2018
Messages
70
Reaction score
34
So are you guys saying that I shouldn't buy a new original briefcase, but look out for a second hand one? Trouble is that the secondary market here in NL is quite small. However, a new 256 would run me about $450 which is also bonkers. Alternatively I could buy one from the bay and pay for shipping over here.

Does it have to be a Filson?

Although similar briefcases are probably not too common in Europe, there are plenty of messenger bags constructed of those materials.

I would think if would be fairly easy to get a messenger bag modified by the addition of the appropriate handles by somebody like saddle-maker and still save a considerable amount on a Filson...
 

speedy611

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2015
Messages
1,271
Reaction score
1,619
So are you guys saying that I shouldn't buy a new original briefcase, but look out for a second hand one? Trouble is that the secondary market here in NL is quite small. However, a new 256 would run me about $450 which is also bonkers. Alternatively I could buy one from the bay and pay for shipping over here.

The debate between new and second hand Filsons is endless. If cost is the driving consideration you might:
1. Ask nicely here for someone to post to you from the US and buy a new 256 at best price on eBay. Shipping likely to be less then than ebays global shipping program.
2. Talk to @GzStudio or @TinMan3 about a used bag and see what they could do for you on shipping.

Even with shipping and possible taxes you can probably improve on $450.

As to Pete E’s comment - yes you could buy something similar and cheaper. But Filsons are unmistakable in look, feel and quality. If that’s what you want then a substitute isn’t going to be satisfactory.
Good luck!
 

mgrennier

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2015
Messages
1,237
Reaction score
1,235
So are you guys saying that I shouldn't buy a new original briefcase, but look out for a second hand one? Trouble is that the secondary market here in NL is quite small. However, a new 256 would run me about $450 which is also bonkers. Alternatively I could buy one from the bay and pay for shipping over here.
I agree with Speedy. I've bought several Filson briefcases in my life. I've bought new (256 and 24 hour bag) and I've bought used (256 and 257).

The 256 and 257 are my EDC - based on how much I want to carry that day/week. (I travel every nearly every week for work)

In my opinion, the best of both worlds scenario is if you can find a slightly used 256 (or 257) that is a few years old (always ask to see the "build tag"). While the new stuff is super high quality, the generally accepted opinion of most on this forum is that the quality of some aspects of the bags has diminished a slight bit (although, honestly, you won't notice it).

For example, some would say that the quality of the leather is different, or the quality of the dividers on the inside is a bit different - those kinds of things.

It's also important for you to know that the people on this forum are not normal Filson briefcase buyers. You've stumbled across the most passionate carve-out on the internet of Filson aficionados. We're all a bit giddy in our feelings toward this iconic brand.

Many here (GZStudio and TinMan in particular) have become experts in the buying and selling process (I've interacted with both on transactions) and know their stuff.

In any case, you'll be getting a bag for life (new OR used)
 

Pete E

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2018
Messages
70
Reaction score
34
As to Pete E’s comment - yes you could buy something similar and cheaper. But Filsons are unmistakable in look, feel and quality. If that’s what you want then a substitute isn’t going to be satisfactory.
Good luck!

Filson is good, but there are other bag maker offering would be another although they produce mostly camera bags....Neither are cheap but the quality is excellent.

I am not sure whats available in Europe, but I have seen good quality bags canvas/leather messenger bags in France and Germany in the past...

That said, if the OP has his heart set on a Filson, he should probably save for one, but these days they are not the only game in town...
 

TinMan3

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2017
Messages
1,146
Reaction score
1,414
I agree with Speedy. I've bought several Filson briefcases in my life. I've bought new (256 and 24 hour bag) and I've bought used (256 and 257).

The 256 and 257 are my EDC - based on how much I want to carry that day/week. (I travel every nearly every week for work)

In my opinion, the best of both worlds scenario is if you can find a slightly used 256 (or 257) that is a few years old (always ask to see the "build tag"). While the new stuff is super high quality, the generally accepted opinion of most on this forum is that the quality of some aspects of the bags has diminished a slight bit (although, honestly, you won't notice it).

For example, some would say that the quality of the leather is different, or the quality of the dividers on the inside is a bit different - those kinds of things.

It's also important for you to know that the people on this forum are not normal Filson briefcase buyers. You've stumbled across the most passionate carve-out on the internet of Filson aficionados. We're all a bit giddy in our feelings toward this iconic brand.

Many here (GZStudio and TinMan in particular) have become experts in the buying and selling process (I've interacted with both on transactions) and know their stuff.

In any case, you'll be getting a bag for life (new OR used)
I can definitely echo this sentiment. I have always said, if you plan to buy new, try to get it in person. Feel the leather on the handles and on the strap. Make sure it feels stiff but not rigid, make sure it does not buckles or ripple when it bends. If you inspect the bag, and all feels as it should, you have found yourself a multi decade bag. I have found leather consistency to be FAR superior on older bags, but there are fantastic bags still being produced with very nice leather, with a few more duds than usual peppered in there. I know GZ ships overseas often, and I would be willing to as well.

I only have a lightly used tan 256 available right now, but I’m sure GZ has a plethora of options for you to choose from. Buying from someone here is your best bet at a good price and good quality.

Another note for @Pete E, if people have made their way here, I assume they are looking to buy a Filson. There SO many alternative options and you are correct that they are less expensive and will likely last a long time. But once you set your sights on the Filson style, it’s tough to get even close in terms of materials and style. If you have any alternatives that are comparable, please post about them, because Vermillia Pelle is the only true option that I am aware of, and IMO these are extremely high quality rip offs of Filson designs that are actually on par or more expensive than Filson.
 
Last edited:

speedy611

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2015
Messages
1,271
Reaction score
1,619
Filson is good, but there are other bag maker offering would be another although they produce mostly camera bags....Neither are cheap but the quality is excellent.

I am not sure whats available in Europe, but I have seen good quality bags canvas/leather messenger bags in France and Germany in the past...

That said, if the OP has his heart set on a Filson, he should probably save for one, but these days they are not the only game in town...
Pete - totally agree and you are correct. My apologies if my comment implied that Filson was the only option. What I was trying to say was that if he wants the brand name there isn’t really anything else. If he wants a good bag made of leather and canvas there are other options!
Billingham camera bags are one and they are generally as expensive as Filson.

#giddy
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 97 38.0%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 92 36.1%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 29 11.4%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 42 16.5%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 38 14.9%

Forum statistics

Threads
507,163
Messages
10,594,362
Members
224,374
Latest member
kwilli
Top